6g74 / built atx

A slight change of plans from what I was originally looking to do, but this sounds a little more unique, and it's going to save me quite a bit of time, so I'm gonna go with it.

About a week or so ago I ran across a good deal on a green atx 94 sl with 90k miles. It supposedly has with a shift kit, high stall tq converter and lsd along with a few other extras. It also had the removable sunroof, so I was happy about that. The engine in this was blown, making it much more affordable. And I just finished getting my 3.5 ready, so this was good timing. Anyway as soon as I got it home, I went to work on it.

http://i55.tinypic.com/iclil3.jpg

came with some custom headers/downpipe too
http://i51.tinypic.com/ay0hhg.jpg

if you're wondering why it has a boost gauge, it had a supercharger, but that was gone when i picked it up. it does still have the safc tho
http://i54.tinypic.com/a32lck.jpg

first order of business was to swap out those wheels
http://i56.tinypic.com/14lrrec.jpg

Here's my 3.5, just sitting there waiting on a new home
http://i55.tinypic.com/3445dgh.jpg

Here's my makeshift battery relocation kit. It's actually an amp kit, but its supposed to be 0 gauge and it ended up only costing me like 20 shipped, so I couldn't resist. I held the ground wire up next to the front springs and its the same size, lol
http://i55.tinypic.com/30bfpcl.jpg

I had a few other upgrades, but since they were for the 5spd, so I can't use them yet.

Keep us updated with pics, let us know if you have any questions along the way!
Engine setup looks VERY clean.

-Chris

#Prep for pulling old engine

disconnected battery
put shifter in neutral
ebrake on and wheelchock behind back tire
removed intake
locked neutral safety switch with an allen wrench in pinhole (neutral position)
disconnected shifter cable
removed battery tray and washer reservoir
removed hood, set on roof of car
jacked up front end, on 2 jack stands
front wheels off

#More Prepwork For Removing Old Engine / Trans

unbolted struts
unbolted abs and brake lines for more slack
removed axles from spindles
removed ds axle from block and slid out of trans
removed starter
loosened trans bolts
loosened motor mounts / transmission mount
removed downpipe


unbolted strut
http://i52.tinypic.com/24d0gnp.jpg

ds axle, unbolt the block axle mount and slide the axle out
http://i56.tinypic.com/156z8k4.jpg

#More Prepwork For Removing Old Engine / Trans

jacked up engine slightly
disconnected fuel lines, should have used an oil pan to catch it
drained radiator to jug (drain cock in bottom front driver side)
disconnected rad hoses
disconnected atx lines from rad, drain in pan, maybe should drain from atx also?
disconnected ps hoses, drain in pan
disconnected rad fan connectors
disconnected alt/ac connectors
disconnected a/c lines
disconnected trans connectors, spd sensor

#More Prepwork For Removing Old Engine / Trans

removed upper mani for easier pull
wrapped a tow strap through front header and rear intake mani brackets
connected engine hoist and put light tension pulling up
removed motor mounts / trans mount
removed radiator for more room
any loose lines were pulled out of engine bay and tied back

#Pulling Old Engine / Trans

pulled out at 45* angle, engine side up, ps axle still attached

http://i56.tinypic.com/s12lba.jpg

http://i53.tinypic.com/ddgg15.jpg

#ATX Swap

removed trans bolts, much easier as they were loosened earlier
removed trans from 3.0
removed tq conv access plate (bottom center of block)
loosened tq conv bolts (locking crank pulley helps, but better to do this before removing from car while wheels are still on ground.)
removed tq conv from 3.0
installed tq conv on 3.5 (i'd also recommend not tightening them all the way til the eng/trans back in car and wheels on ground. and use thread lock)
lined up 3.5/trans (atx flat on dolley, 3.5 on hoist
shaft lines up like this ( \ \ ) looking from passenger side
slid atx onto 3.5
installed trans to block bolts
ready to go


it's pink, lol
http://i53.tinypic.com/2s9r37r.jpg

access plate removed
http://i53.tinypic.com/14eb77b.jpg

http://i55.tinypic.com/dms29u.jpg

#Dropping 3.5 / Trans In

sealed up all loose hose ends with plastic wrap and tape
cleaned engine bay with some degreaser
installed new poly motor mounts (this is the best time to do this btw)
3.5 / trans in air, passenger side axle and trans angled down 45* (definitely a 2 person job)
slowly lowered engine / trans in


new mounts
http://i55.tinypic.com/vcuuy0.jpg

http://i56.tinypic.com/29asev5.jpg

nothing like a midnight engine swap
http://i55.tinypic.com/2vj4e86.jpg

awesome. those wheels look like the one's predacon had on his vr4; only painted black.

let me knwo what the stall is on it when you find out...and how much you like/dislike it. any idea what LSD it's got? quaife?

#Installation

connected ac lines, new orings
installed alternator that came with the 3.5, cleaned/shined it up a few weeks ago
installed radiator
connected atx rad lines
connected rad fan connectors
connected starter
connected ac, alt wires
alternator power connector was bigger, not sure why. swapped power wire cover and drilled out wire clip hole a little bigger, plug was same
odd, alt is same part#, but some slight differences

#Finalizing Installation

the 3.5 rear harness attached to the upper mani only had 2 pins, my wire harness had 3 pins (ps, oil, knock sensor?)
swapped for the 3 pin harness, reloomed and taped, knock? sensor just disconnected now, will swap from 3.0 block later (wish i would have caught this with both engines out the car :( would make this much easier)
installed stock downpipe and cat from my 94 base (fed spec) with new gaskets
no need for spacers, it fit fine, but maybe because my 3.5 came with exh mani, they look same size, but maybe are somehow a little taller or angled differently
swapped out the 3.5 upper mani with the 3.0, looks more stock and is partially polished
can't find my fed spec tb, so old ca spec one is on
wired up the (ca spec) rear o2 sensor connector to the (fed spec) pre cat o2 sensor, front connector is still open
topped off atf, only needed to add 2 qts so far, castrol import multi veh, said is good for diamond spIII
changed oil & filter valv synth 5w30 and fram xtra guard
battery relocation isn't done yet, battery sitting on frame and temporarily connected for testing

#First Test

started up pretty easily
something started squealing, maybe crankcase pressure, more likely from plenum
also, some smoke from downpipe, probably from spills on it
no cel so far

#Things still unfinished

fix squeal/leak
battery relocation
washer relocation
knock sensor
clean up loosely connected stuff
install hood
connect sprayers
mount hood light, replace with brighter leds?
check on ds poly mount, doesnt fit

A few other things I'd like to do before I get this car on the road
good trans flush / filter, gasket change, and fill with actual oem diamond spIII or maybe some royal purple
add a separate trans cooler
install my mtx radiator or maybe a new obx or 3sx one
interior swap
fix front bumper and ps side skirt

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ninja Performance

Keep us updated with pics, let us know if you have any questions along the way!
Engine setup looks VERY clean.

-Chris

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thanks, it's pretty much done
i was too busy doing all the work to come post about it, lol
i regret not taking more pictures, but i do have a quite a few
and there were several things i got hung up on, but i dont recall anyone mentioning those issues, the only things they mentioned, were either common sense simple stuff or weren't even an issue for me

Quote:

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Originally Posted by inperfectdarkness

awesome. those wheels look like the one's predacon had on his vr4; only painted black.

let me knwo what the stall is on it when you find out...and how much you like/dislike it. any idea what LSD it's got? quaife?

---

thanks, they're my favorite set i've ever owned, could use a good cleaning, but that will come soon enough

i don't know much about atx's, but i'll update with some results soon and any other info i come across
i've done several filter/gasket/flushes on other vehicles, but not much work with the 3/s atx
the torque converter is pink, lol

Those headers looked ugly and not mandrel bent you know what brand they are (look like RIPP to me but not sure)?

not sure, got the car from "tribute" on 3si
i'd have to check with him

theyre not the prettiest, shouldve been ceramic coated or something
they do look much better flowing than stock, the downpipe that came with them does too

i'm using the stock 3.5 manifolds and borrowing the stock downpipe and cat from my other car
after my new downpipe and hiflow cat get here, i'll put those back on the other car

#Second test

started up again, still a squeal
took the bolts from the rear plenum brackets out (they were pulling back on the plenum as they were designed for the 3.5 mani)
i guess it was pulling just enough to allow the slightest leak, was a really loud whistling sound
then after retightening the front/center plenum bolts, the squeal went away

now on to test the trans (this didn't go so well)
went through all the gears to try to get the fluid circulated, but nothing was happening
its like the torque converter isnt even trying to engage
left it in neutral and running and checked/added another quart of fluid which brought it up to the full/hot line
it was getting pretty late, so i just turned it off and called it a night



#Third test
next day, did the same thing
ran through gears and added another quart
it's now reading full, but still not working
i'm hoping theres something just not connected or loose somewhere
i already checked all connectors on the trans and the entire engine bay for that matter. nothing unaccounted for
the only things unplugged are the 3rd and 4th o2 sensors, which i dont have on the car
and also the washer reservoir but that is removed

at least i have that squeal taken care of...

The torque converter locked in 3 times when you put it in the trans correct?

this may be where i messed up
after i already had it all together, i found out i was supposed to install the tq converter to the trans 1st
i mounted it to the flex plate first
i installed same way i took it out, i shouldve read up on it first
guess i'm just used to mtx's

and look what came in the mail today :)
wish it would have came a few days earlier
that way i could've done the exhaust only once
oh well, this thing is really light and it did give me a chance to see if the stock exhaust fits on a 3.5
now to see if this fits as well. hopefully it will have a little more clearance and not less at all
one thing i don't like from looking at it is the curve of the pipe from the rear manifold
it looks like it was put on backwards, so that the exhaust will flow from the rear head towards the exhaust from the front head

http://i54.tinypic.com/ir0vmv.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by n2nsanity

and look what came in the mail today :)
wish it would have came a few days earlier
that way i could've done the exhaust only once
oh well, this thing is really light and it did give me a chance to see if the stock exhaust fits on a 3.5
now to see if this fits as well. hopefully it will have a little more clearance and not less at all
one thing i don't like from looking at it is the curve of the pipe from the rear manifold
it looks like it was put on backwards, so that the exhaust will flow from the rear head towards the exhaust from the front head

http://i54.tinypic.com/ir0vmv.jpg

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ahhh....the ebay n/a downpipe. :)

all the more reason to get a tt conversion; the ebay tt downpipe is better; rivaling any of our platform shops' offerings.

i'll try it at least
i'm going to try to get this and the battery relocation done today
tomorrow i should have more time to work on the transmission problems

Ya I was a little confused when you said you bolted the torque converter to the flex plate first. You have to drop it into the trans first.

how do i seem to be the only person that didnt know this? lol

well i got the car all jacked up and sitting on stands
was about to put the new downpipe on when i noticed there was no o2 bung on the new downpipe
so thats on hold until later
also, upon further examination, the exhaust is touching, but just barely
i guess i didn't look at it from all angles last time
from the passenger side there is all kinds of room, which is where i was when i mounted it
from the driver side, its just barely touching the lip of the lower part of the oil pan where the upper/lower are mounted together
i worked more on routing the power cable for the battery relocation, but ran out of time
ground is done, but having trouble finding a good spot to route it along the passenger side floorboard because the wire is so thick
so, nothing accomplished today :(

maybe i shouldve just stuck with my original plan and did the mtx conversion
then i couldve sold the upgraded atx and had more funds to play with
if i dont have some luck with this trans soon, i'm going to do that
i really want to try out this route tho, i don't think anyone's done it yet

noone knows what the buzzing sound is? that was leading me to believe it was something electrical
and how likely is it that any damage has resulted from what ive done so far?

anyway, here is a pic of the exhaust
it could probably be bent slightly towards the passenger side and you might not need spacers
http://i56.tinypic.com/qn1c9u.jpg

I cant wait to see this finished. Dont count out your atx yet 8) I am alittle biased though. I am really interested in how this turns out.

wow, long time no see
how's ga treating ya?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jomojr

I cant wait to see this finished. Dont count out your atx yet 8) I am alittle biased though. I am really interested in how this turns out.

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i know who i'm voting for ATX ROTM.... :)

just an fyi, i've ran that downpipe before. it worked just fine on my stock 3.0L n/a. probably doesn't have as much power as other types of downpipes...but you're not going to really notice the difference.

Loving it down here 8) Closer to the ATL and the Family in Jax Fl. Right now Im just missing my car. Should be out of the body shop in another week or two. Im really wanting to have it mostly done "mechanical" by BRG. You making it to BRG?

will try to make it if the car is all done and i have any $ left, lol
will be at ng no matter what

Supposedly you can damage the torque converter or the atx shaft by running the atx like that, but you didn't drive around or anything so you should be ok. I think I had my torque converter installed wrong (not completely in) for a little bit and I did drive (a very little bit) on it. I did re-install it correctly and I haven't noticed any signs of damage. It is possible the squealing noises you heard could have been some damage happening though. Was there any fluid in the torque converter? Due to the way it works, it doesn't seem likely that the torque converter could prime itself.

i couldnt drive if i wanted to, lol. it didnt budge in any gear
in all gears except neutral and reverse its making this faint buzzing sound (sounds electrical)
i intentionally left fluid in the tq converter, i didnt know if it could prime itself, so thought that was safer
i shouldve dumped it and poured new fluid in it
squealing noise was the plenum. i could tell it was definitely from the plenum or rear valve cover.
tightened the plenum bolts while it was running so that was definitely what fixed it

That downpipe flow is definitely backwards! I would be getting in contact with the ebay seller right away....thats a worse design then factory!

i had an idea what might be wrong
thought maybe the ground wasn't good enough
so i attached a nice thick ground wire from the trans directly to the battery
still no good
that wouldve been too easy, lol
weather isn't cooperating, so it looks like it will be another week before i get any more work done

this buzzing sound is really puzzling me
sounds like when youre trying to start a car with a dead battery
that real fast clicking sound, but much quieter

You will wish you stuck with your original plan and gone for the MTX.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whitedragon

You will wish you stuck with your original plan and gone for the MTX.

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This

-Chris

i may still go that route
i want to give the atx a 2nd shot at least
i dont like not knowing why something isnt working

Quote:

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Originally Posted by n2nsanity

i may still go that route
i want to give the atx a 2nd shot at least
i dont like not knowing why something isnt working

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It doesn't matter if it's working or not. You will be annoyed at how "slow" it is with the ATX, how it doesn't shift when you want it to, and how it runs out of gearing so quick, and it never seems to be in the powerband.

My 3.5 with IPT's built ATX was still slow, the torque converter they gave me never seemed to work right, and it seemed to never shift at the right spot ever.

Creative had a 3.5 MTX and would regularly spank me, and that's even with my extensive exhaust mods and his stock downpipe and catback. Unless you are planning on having a wife or gf drive the car that can't drive a stick, ditch the ATX.