Bilstein install (HD struts)
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The Bilstein struts currently avaliable for our car do not directly replace the stock struts in the front; the housing from the old strut is saved and the bilstein strut is inserted inside. The rear struts are bolt on replacements for the old struts, no modification is necessary. I have been told that they are looking for a better solution for the front, but for the time being, this is what we have.
First of all, let me say that this is not a complete install how-to. I will describe what is necessary to modify the old front struts, but if you do not know how to remove, disassemble, or reinstall a strut you should look at Jeff Lucius's wonderful page (
Stealth 316 - Shock & Strut Removal & Disassembly ).
First, Remove and disassemble the front struts.
Then drill about a 1/4 inch hole on the side of the strut approximately 1 inch from the top (see picture #1). Drain the strut of as much oil as you can into a suitable disposal container.
1
http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/9240/struthowto1.jpg
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The second step is to cut off the top of the strut. The bilstein instructions specify that you must cut the strut tube off 48 millimeters from the top of the strut housing. That works out to be about 1 and 7/8 inches. It is my observation that if you stay within 1/8 of this you should be fine, but try your best to get it right on. The tube on that strut is rather strong, so I would not recommend trying to do this without power tools. It is too difficult with a hacksaw because the saw hits the spring seat on the strut. The best tool is a sawzall with a bi-metal blade, which I was able to borrow from work to do this (after trying a hacksaw and a dremel for about an hour). A dremel is not powerful enough to do a reasonable job. A bandsaw would probably also work well for this. Remember when cutting that only the outside tube needs to be cut, you do not have to cut through all the innards as they will slide out when the outside tube is cut completely. Okay, cut the tube and remove the innards. See pictures #1 and #2.
2
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/2856/struthowto2.jpg
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You should now see that the bilstein insert slides into the old strut housing, but one more modification is necessary to make the insert stay. Flip over the strut housing and drill an 11mm hole (slightly larger than 3/8, I had to use a dremel to widen the hole as I did not have a larger bit handy) in the center of the bottom of the housing (see pic #3). Test fit the stut insert and ensure that the bolt goes through the hole. Then clean the strut housing and paint the machined areas to ensure that they don't rust. I just grabbed some black paint, but it would have been nice to have some rust inhibiting paint handy.
3
http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/3723/struthowto3.jpg
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Okay, you're almost done! Slide the insert into the housing and tighten the bolt on the bottom of the strut with the nut supplied by bilstein. You now need to slide the lockring over the bilstein strut and press it onto the strut housing. In picture #4 you can see the top of the strut insert (yellow) rising just above the cut-off strut housing, with the lockring slid partially on the strut.
4
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/8203/struthowto4.jpg
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Push the lockring all the way down and then pound it onto the stut housing, being careful not to scratch the new strut tube. I used some regular rubber handled pliers upside-down, so that the rubber-coated handle was touching the strut tube with the bottom of the handle resting on the lockring. I then hit the other end of the plier with a hammer. A plasting pounding block would have been better, but use whatever you feel comfortable with. Force it on until you are sure it will not come off, but make absolutely certain that it is on there straight, or the strut will not operate. Use a tape measure around all sides to make sure that it it square with the strut tube (see picture #5).
5
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/6342/struthowto5.jpg
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Once that is square, your modifications are complete! Reassemble with springs, etc. and reinstall!
A few notes. I found this really easy to do. It takes a bit of time, but with the right tools it is relatively quick and very easy, It is well worth it for the Bilstein struts. When removing the top nuts on the old struts (after spring has been compressed, obviously) use an impact. You won't have to grab onto the strut to stop it from turning (at least, not like you'd have to with a regular wrench) because the impact doesn't really put much force on anything but the nut (its really cool how that works out). The impact makes it a lot easier. Just be careful not to damage anything that you will need to reuse! Good luck with everything!
-Taylor Alexander
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/6...tomofbilst.jpg
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/2...pletestrut.jpg
Please note:
Bilstein makes two different set of rear shocks, for ECS(replaces ECS) and one for non-ECS cars (The spring perch is slightly smaller for '96 - '99 VR4's, after Mitsu deleted the ECS)
Front struts :
34-050224 or R36-5022-H1
Rear struts :
24-017435 or B46-1743-H0 NON ECS
24-017428 or B46-1742-H0 ECS
Installing Bilstein struts - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center
