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Automobile Multimeter for EGT, Boost, Amber [SYL-1813A] - $53.50 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry
Really digging this! Im still considering not running a boost controller and no boost gauge on my car, just using 22lb springs in the Forge wastegates, but since i found these, i think my gauge problem is solved. These are inexpensive and will fit perfectly under the radio head unit in a simple plexiglass DIN style installation.
Jason
Round gauges suck? Digital gauges suck. Seeing where a needle is at is MUCH easier at a quick glance.
Not for me, having had or been around both, i much prefer the digitals as i can see exactly the relevant info and nothing else.
I myself find gauges rather pointless. By the time you actually SEE something wrong, its 9/10 times already too late. I like the fact that these gauges have an output for when a parameter is broken for whatever safety net you wanted in place.
I almost want to build a 500+ awhp car and only have a wideband. No boost gauge, no boost controller, no stupid big ass FMIC.
These cars work better with the absolute least amount of stuff changed on them.
Jason
well, with needle gauges at quick glance you can know where you are on the scale, near the end or in the middle. with digital ones, you need to alway remember your HI point. I hope that makes sense.
My title was more tongue in cheek.
My biggest peeve with the standard gauges is either spend the worst day of your life pulling the stock gauges and mounting 52's in the stock gauge cluster to have it looking "right" since this platform is basically the only car in existence where stock is best.
Or you are stuck putting them on the pillar which is about the most annoying place ever.
Oil pressure is the only one i like to keep tabs on on the ready. If the car is built right, you should have no need to constantly be checking your gauges.
I just need a boost gauge to make sure im running 22psi. Nothing more and nothing less. Wont even have a boost controller, 22lb springs in the wastegates and water meth tuned with an ARC2.
Set and fucking forget bitches!..lol
Jason
I see where Jason is coming from but also understand the simplicity of an analog scale.
Thats a nice unit, CHEAP and like a dozen uses, pretty amazing.
I am trying to keep an almost completely stock looking interior but its tough :/
its called "peace of mind". never know what might happen to the car. gauges can be very useful, and distractive.
I like simplicity which is why this appeals to me and a small 1x2 gauge can be installed cleanly just about anywhere on the center console. I would like to put 4 on my car and stick them under the radio. Boost, oil pressure/temp and water temp.
But will probably end up with only two and stack them in the DIN storage slot under the head unit, Just boost and oil pressure.
Water temp is more important than most would assume, the stock gauge responds very slowly and for auto-x'ers and road racers and temp gauge that reads in real time is really important.
Jason
i like the idea of no boost controller and just the forge wastegates. let me know how well they work.
i think ill keep my FMIC though ;)
If this platform had better sidemount options FMIC's would become almost obsolete.
:)
Will definitely let everyone know how the Forge WG's work using them standalone.
My goal is simple, 22lbs of boost, pump+meth, tuned on an ARC2(done in 15 minutes) and thats really it. No need to over complicate this. Oh i have 19T HL's for turbos so im hoping for ~500awhp/tq at 22psi, will see if it makes it.
Never taking this car down the track except at 3/S only meets, just want a simple yet very powerful street car that still feels and acts as much like BPU as possible. I will not accept a car anymore that has a "hobby car" feel to it. Jump in a drive is my intention, just as if i would a head/cam Vette.
Jason
I dont know how they would work with a 500 whp car, but a friend used to lap his 410 whp vr-4, and he logged EVERYTHING, EVERY time he went to the track, and his HKS sidemounts were adequate, never heat soaked. I havent heat soaked my HKS's but have a bit less hp, maybe 320 wheel.
Arent DSM sidemounts even bigger than the HKS ones?
They are larger, but not by much. They are also a very old design with end tanks being fed air not in their originally designed location.
I will be making my own IC's using BELL cores and end tanks. They will be exactly the same size H x W and fit in the EXACT location as OEM as to allow the continued use of the very well designed stock ducting since the sidemounts OWN front mounts in air FLOW due to the simple fact NOTHING is behind a sidemount compared to a FMIC.
FMIC's act like a big heat sink, SMIC's act as an IC should since they can dissipate heat much better and more quickly due to the greater air flow through them.
Jason
i have to say i rather agree with jason's assessment of analog; which is actually a reason why i wear a digital watch too. :)
i'm not sure i'd ever stick with SMICS; but then again, i've been reading a lot about surge lately, and i wonder if SMICS simply do not have this issue for a reason.
Jason, really digging the new motivation you have. Since I have been on the boards I don't think I have seen you talk about moding your car this much.
IMHO, Wideband, Boost and Oil pressure I want to see in their own gauge. My scanmaster pretty much shows the rest of the info I want.
yes paul, and that's why a custom readout on a mini-tablet-sized display would be PIMP. not only could i have digital gauges, i could get them programmed to flash RED when certain parameters are exceeded. how freaktastically awesome would that be?
The FMIC vs SMIC comparo also assumes you are using a comparable setup. The surging issue on Todds(DR750s's) car really has me bummed out even more than i normally am about FMIC's.
I like things to work, ive got over 20k into my car, i expect it to act like it and perform like it. Not to accept that i'll never be able to accelerate in the top 3 gears because ive got a lot of mods on my car.
But anyway, to avoid rant, thought these would be a great gauge for people who need something to fit discretely and at a great price to boot!
The surging issue in my opinion is caused by one thing really, a serious imbalance of air output by the turbos vs what the engine is actually demanding/consuming. The pressure wave runs smack into the throttle body and then heads back the other direction into the direction of air flow. Putting your foot into it more just amplifies this which is why you have to totally get out of the throttle and get into it enough for the engine to consume the air its being fed.
Having one big long 3.5" pipe to bounce around in, is doing no good either. With the SMIC i *think* that pressure wave gets broken up by the y-pipe which is why its rare to hear about a surging issue with sidemounts.
Which is why i also fail to see how a balance tube can have the slightest effect on the surging problem since the real problem is too much air in the intake system not the imbalance of where the turbos output merges in relation to the length of the IC pipes.
It is simply an inherent flaw with that style IC system with very fast spooling turbos since the turbos make more air than the engine can consume due to a large imbalance in the sizing of the compressor vs turbine on the turbo itself.
Jason
Putting gauges down low sucks. I had gauges mounted below the headunit in my TSI and it was annoying and distracting to be looking down to occasionally check the gauges.
I like the idea digital gauges. I'm working on a micro-controller that displays the AEM telemetry on an LCD and will be hardly noticeable. I'd rather have that than the dual-pod pillar that came with my car, the stock look is where its at.
as for FMIC vs. SMIC, I don't know. I've always loved the look of a huge shiny FMIC, but at the same time I'm considering making my FMIC black.... maybe I'm getting old.
I agree, hence why i dont really want any. With these cars, if its gonna break, its gonna fucking break, wether you see it coming it not...lolQuote:
Originally Posted by stealthee
The wideband is on the steering column, that one is unavoidable. But boost is the only think i need to keep tabs on, if i had a bigger set of balls, i would use a cheapo mechanical gauge, confirm the WG's are set properly on my turbos, and take it right off and not even have one. And you have no idea how close i am to doing exactly that.
Jason
I agree stock> all :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy
As far as FMIC's visually, i LOVE Todds on his 97, you cant see it unless you know what you are looking at..lol Otherwise, i know this will piss many off, i think they look silly...(says the guy in love with the combat wing..LOLOL)
Jason
Most definitely! They are about useless down by the stereo and dangerous when driving at WOT.Quote:
Originally Posted by stealthee
BTW, I'd totally went side mount but I got ripped off by this prick on some DSM ones. He sold me the 2nd gen or whatever that's just as small as stock. (I hope he's reading this! Dick!) The other side mounts were so expensive and I basically got a FMIC for free so that's the way I went.
Could not find the thread on this, but I have contact info:
Quote:
I'm selling them for $270 (includes main unit, pressure sensor, boost solenoid harness, lcd screen, rotary knob, wideband o2 input / auxiliary input harness, power cord). +$30 for Boost solenoid, +$15 for MUT serial cable (94+ 3S vehicles, or 95+ DSM vehicles).
Quote:
My boost controller can safely lower boost if you have knock -- none of the other boost controllers can do that. Second, if you have an alchy/water injection setup and you run low on fluid, the auxiliary input wire can safely reduce your boost for pump gas boost level. I don't know enough about the HKS solenoid, so I can't recommend using it as a substitute. The AEM style boost solenoids I use are inexpensive so you don't have to worry about ruining expensive solenoids with an alchy/water injection kit. Yes any MUT serial cable will work as long as you don't have an extra unused wire on pin 6.
Quote:
Couple more questions,
Is the air intake temp sending unit stock or I would need to install?
To data log I would need to unplug, or make a Y cable/splitter for the
serial cable would this work?
I also plan to go with aem ems in the future. I think this was asked,
but do you plan on making a cable for that?
Thanks,
Bill
On Sun, Sep 26, 2010 at 10:15 AM, Antero wrote:
> My boost controller can safely lower boost if you have knock -- none of the
> other boost controllers can do that. Second, if you have an alchy/water
> injection setup and you run low on fluid, the auxiliary input wire can
> safely reduce your boost for pump gas boost level. I don't know enough
> about the HKS solenoid, so I can't recommend using it as a substitute. The
> AEM style boost solenoids I use are inexpensive so you don't have to worry
> about ruining expensive solenoids with an alchy/water injection kit. Yes
> any MUT serial cable will work as long as you don't have an extra unused
> wire on pin 6.
Has warning light and tones, color is changeable, and other customizations...Quote:
Boost limit is 36.3psi.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMGRbN59SCA
That is the most awesome shit I've seen for monitoring a 3s!!!!!!!!!!
All for the price of a decent wide band as well.
I've not heard if anyone other than him has ran it yet, but looks like a winner if it pans out to be true...
Also, you have to mod the gauge yourself, but not that difficult...
PM me for his info if you would like to know more. I don't want to post it without his permission.
i'm also going to "ninja" my fmic. black core, black piping. i don't like blingy.Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonY
^ this from the guy who is going to paint his car purple...
That LCD built into the tach is pretty cool but not as easy to read at a glance as a bigger more dedicated gauge (although I have been thinking of modding my maft-pro to do an install similar to this). Why not just replace the stock center gauges? It looks stock, and they are in an easy to read location. Unless you need more than 3 gauges, IMHO it's the perfect solution.
I found it easier to tune my car with a NBO2, haha. The digital output of the WB changes too frequently to be useful real-time.
Would be nice to be able to change the sample rate on the WB02 to respond less slowly.
But when tuning with an ARC2, fine tuning and ARC2 dont go hand in hand :p
Jason
"Hmm, my idle afr seems to be a little higher than I would like"Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonY
*Click
-Car stalls out :lol:
I've been running that for many months and helping him with testing some things on hybrids (94/95).Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverJester
The HUGE benefit over stock is that it has overboost cut, the screen will flash red when it overboosts. It reads data from the OBDII port, so it can notify you when things go wrong; like having it turn red if the car is overheating. It also flashes red for knock warnings, based on whatever you set it to. It reads CELs and clears them. It reads wideband o2 - so you can use a "gaugeless" AEM gauge and only see wb02 when you want. It's also got a LOT of cool features - start/end boost, target WGDC, WGDC correction based on temp, RPM correction to force higher WGDC to hold boost longer, a secondary "aux" boost setting ... it's by far my favorite mod I've ever done, and I've been through a hallman, greddy type s, apex'i avc-r, and ecu controlled boost. ;)
I can do a pull and see right on the screen in real-time a boost response curve graph - along with peak boost and peak knock. NO gauge that I know of shows you a boost curve - although this one is limited to 17psi (due to the LCD screen).
The thing is, you don't really NEED to constantly how much boost you're running once it's tuned right ... unless you fail at an epic level, the overboost and knock boost-cut features will take care of any small problems with the settings.
man Gerhard Schruf (Bell intercoolers) is an amazing person he will design you an intercooler of your choise (design is free ;) ) and the endtank design is amazing. I went with 8.1x8x6 cores 911cfm 1822cfm combined(it would take a pretty damn huuge fmic to cover that and ask what they recommend for max fmic lenght its actually bad to have 24" long fmic !:)), 480 $ each assembled .Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonY
8.1x8x4.5 will be great core size and cost even less btw i have 8x8x4.5 cores in there right now exact same location as OEM and that size is really easy fit in there..
you could even sent them your old icīs and they will make bolt on set for you .
the reasons i like smics are 1 nothing blocking my engine cooling 2 top to bottom design
Bell Intercoolers - Custom Intercooler and Core Solutions
oh and im in the same boat keep it simple althou i hacked my center console a lil
I dug through that a bit more - you can set warning lights! :D It doesn't mention where to find sensors, though.Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonY
It would be nice to replace the stock 3 gauges with a single rectangular gauge "panel" that has all the gauge info right there, since it's much easier to see than down by the stereo....
warning lights are as tacky as shift lights. if that's a look you don't mind, go for it. i'd simply prefer that my readout change color or flash or something.
That is what it does... LCD flashes red.
it's a multiple-readout, monochrome, with only a colored warning light.
what i'm talking about is full color LED/LCD display, which would have (for instance) blue numbers displayed for normal operating parameters, and red numbers with a flashing background for exceeded parameters.
the technology is there, but i'm not the guinea pig.
That's what I'd like, but at the price, a warning light is better than having to eyeball each gauge and read and mentally process the ranges, while not hitting something.Quote:
Originally Posted by inperfectdarkness
I'm still curious about what sensors work. It would need to be more accurate than the stock boost and oil pressure gauges, though.
evoscan is really nice with all the alarms its got i like it very much . I have even set wideband alarm @ WOT so if i run lean i get message running lean if engine is knocking i get message warning engine knock etc etc its amazing
I think only gauge i would want is wideband nothing else .