Good News Bad News .. and Bad News and Bad News AAARRRRGgggghhhhhhh

The good news, I got the car trailered from my garage to my buddy's heated garage. In 6 hours got the motor and tranny pulled and separated on Saturday. Had to pick up some bolts for the motor stand today. Got the motor on the stand today and started pulling off parts. The water pump was aftermarket. I really wanna kick someone's ass over that. Too bad I am not in Wyoming where the car fame from.

Bad news :( Pulled the intake and looked down into the head. Every single intake valve is stuck up and none of the cam lobes are engaged on them. Exhaust is harder to see but appears the same way.

I don't have the correct size of allen for the head bolts tonight. (Any suggestions on the size?) Will have to pick one up tomorrow and will be able to finally get the heads off. At this point I am guessing all the pistons will be have to be replaced, it is just the way my luck goes.

Oh and when I pull the front side intake cam gear to take off the little shield above and behind the water pump I find that 2 of the pieces going from the center hub to the outside gear are cracked completely through.

I'll have to get a picture of the hot side of the turbos, the rear has a nice grey/white color from the exhaust and the front is more a black/brown. Looks like the back was running closer to correct on the air/fuel and the front looks rich. I pull the plugs on tomorrow or thursday I'll be able to tell more. Oh and the knock sensor has some black goo on the top of it? I have a picture on my phone to post in a bit of that too.

So much for pull the heads and have a valve job done.

Brandon

Here is the bad cam gear and the funky stuff on the knock sensor.
oh btw thanks for letting me publicly vent :D


tapatalk is my bitch

Knock sensor is bad, that cam gear is bad, you have bent valves, and it sounds about normal for the turbine exhaust colors. Mine were different too, not sure why, both banks were dead even on the logger.

Bent doesn't even come close to a couple of the intake valves that I can see right now. Pretzel is closer ...

lol, sounds about right. Sorry to hear about the damage, and best of luck on the rebuild :)

yuppp, you're gonna need to rework your cylinder heads... new valve guides, angle job.. the whole works. Sorry to hear! :(

The allen is a 10mm for the head bolts. It sounds like you pretty much know what you have to replace. Let me know if I can help.

Knock sensor looks like it got way to hot.

was there any of that crap around the knock sensor, or is it only on the knock sensor?

I would agree that theres gonna be a full rebuild from the sounds of it, if the valves took it that hard the bearings probably took a beating to.

Just on the top of the knock sensor . Looks and feels like the gel from an electrolytic cap . Figure the sensor is toast. I am nervous to see what out looks like once I get the head off.

Anyone got a set of decent tt heads they let go cheap :-)

tapatalk is my bitch

Most original knock sensors look like that. It may not be bad, but replacing it with a new one is good insurance :)

I've got used heads for $200 each.

I wonder if my head bolts are aftermarket...mine are atleast 12mm...I suspect 14mm alan key.

More pics but good news the pistons look great

tapatalk is my bitch

Are you sure the piston are good. That's quite a impact on the valves.

Yeah so far pretty confident on the pistons. Not even a mark deep enough to feel in the pistons. Looks like the valves took most the energy of the hit. I'll spend some time this weekend going over them closer but first look I am happily surprised. I am honestly amazed at how good it looks on the bottom end. I'll post some piston pics if I can get tapatalk to play again.

Brandon

Glad to hear the pistons weren't completely trashed, GL with the rebuild man.

This is where the carbon was knocked off the piston, but can feel nothing.



tapatalk is my bitch

sears and auto zone both sell a 3/8 socket with a 10 mm allen, i would get the sears 10mm ...i personnely would disassy all of the engine . if you do not have the tools to check the pistons,rods,crank take them to a machine shop .. the crank can easily be checked with the rods off with a magnetic base and dial indicator to see if it is bent .. i found one to be bent .020 which took out the bearings also. with the piston pins pressed in it would be hard to check both them and the rods. with the valves that badly bent i would do a complete rebuild as i would worry about the engine internals . how many miles on engine could also dictate rebuild.. good luck