Speed Density eManage Ult help

So I have this emanage ultimate thingy here and I am not quite sure what all I need to do once I get the motor in the car, and what all is really changing here for this setup.

I understand that the air is no longer going to be metered by the MAF, I need to wire some resistor in for a fixed baro, and I need to some how have the IAT from the MAF going to the EMU, and put a MAP sensor on my plenum.

So how do I keep from getting a CEL? Do I just cut the MAF apart? What the hell do I really do here?

I have a Boomslang Stage 2.5 harness here, the Greddy MAP, the A/F Harness (idk what its for, it came with it), and another "option" connector with 2 wires, grey and white on pins 1 and 3 (idk what this is either). It looks exactly like the A/F harness, so I think its the same thing.

What should my jumpers be on the board?

Please people. Help me.

This'll get you a good start http://www.3si.org/forum/f103/ultima...thread-297552/

That link from B-Man is a good source of info but in the spirit of steering away from 3SI: I've never heard of anyone using their stock air temp sensor. It's best to get a GM IAT sensor. That way there is no risk of getting a CEL from that. Did you get the CEL adapter? It's a 2"x2"x1/2" black box that you splice into the harness to prevent a CEL. If you want to make one and save some money I can provide instructions for it. Those two harnesses that are the same are just for whatever options you are adding, the most common are the MAP sensor and A/F sensor.


Here's link for the GM IAT http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...=en#googlebase

I'm pretty sure the stock y-pipe can be drilled and the IAT can be screwed in, I however have I Dejon Tool y-pipe which is beautiful and has a ton of options available.

There's been a few people who've hacked the stock MAS (cut it up to keep IAT and Baro sensors) and just mounted it in the engine bay. Of course I can't think of who they were for the life of me.

http://members.cox.net/trevito/maf.jpg

Also, you don't NEED an IAT attached to the EMU. I HIGHLY suggest it. I've had several problems when my air adjustment table was zero'd out. I have my GM IAT going to both the ECU and the EMU.

For some reason, I dont know why, but that, I think, belongs to Trevor. I remember reading on some of this a while back when I decided to do this build. What happened when the air adjustment table was zero'd?

Thank you BlackStealth
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-...78/MAFless.jpg

Now my question is, what happens when moving the IAT to the y-pipe, after the turbos, where the air is much hotter? The MAF gets the IAT before the turbos correct? How else could it get the temp after?

Also, why cant I just give the EMU the stock IAT if the GM one is so close?

When I had the air adj. tables zero'd, I would get large swings in my tune depending on time of day/weather (Michigan weather is not all that consistent.

I'm fairly certain you can use the stock MAS on the EMU. Most people choose knock over IAT anyways.

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Originally Posted by B-Man

When I had the air adj. tables zero'd, I would get large swings in my tune depending on time of day/weather (Michigan weather is not all that consistent.

I'm fairly certain you can use the stock MAS on the EMU. Most people choose knock over IAT anyways.

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I think I am just going to hack mine apart like Trevor did, that was his pic btw. That way my stock ECU still sees what it wants and should give me less problems from there. I guess this is all really on a "per" car basis. I am assuming these 550cc maps I got for this will be tuned rich enough to go through my first fire, and break in period, then I can go get it dyno-tuned when I get the break-in over with.

Just make sure you feed the IAT signal to the EMU as well. That is very important. Ideally you really do want it pre throttle body. Where you are proposing now will give you ambient and under hood temps, but your actual intake temps are what you want since intake temp has a direct correlation to the density of the air going into the engine, you need to be able to set that table up in the EMU software.

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Originally Posted by Monster Stealth

Just make sure you feed the IAT signal to the EMU as well. That is very important. Ideally you really do want it pre throttle body. Where you are proposing now will give you ambient and under hood temps, but your actual intake temps are what you want since intake temp has a direct correlation to the density of the air going into the engine, you need to be able to set that table up in the EMU software.

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And this is what I was asking about earlier. The stock MAF meters the temp before the turbos. If I eliminate my stock MAF, and give the stock ECU the GM IAT right before the TB, wont the temps be a lot higher, therefore thowing the stock ECU off?

Wouldn't it just be best to hack the MAF AND get a GM IAT? The stock ECU can have the MAF IAT and the EMU can have the GM IAT.

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Originally Posted by blindmist

And this is what I was asking about earlier. The stock MAF meters the temp before the turbos. If I eliminate my stock MAF, and give the stock ECU the GM IAT right before the TB, wont the temps be a lot higher, therefore thowing the stock ECU off?

Wouldn't it just be best to hack the MAF AND get a GM IAT? The stock ECU can have the MAF IAT and the EMU can have the GM IAT.

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That is one open I guess, I decided against that because I only want one variable for intake temps and fuel, and I want to control it. I am running a fixed temp to the ECU, and then running the GM IAT directly to the EMU. However, I do have a problem with this. At this point in time I do not know the correct pull up resistor (bias resistor), so ambient temps show -3c right now. I am working on it, but so far have no solution other than grabbing a variable resistor and playing with that until it reads ambient, but if I can avoid that and someone already knows the solution I would consider that ideal. I know FRED 62 in France runs it this way, but he has not contacted me back yet with what value resistor he is using.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/168836/Pic%2.../GMIATBias.png

Hmmm. What should I do? What should I do? I just feel really confused now.

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Originally Posted by Monster Stealth

That is one open I guess, I decided against that because I only want one variable for intake temps and fuel, and I want to control it. I am running a fixed temp to the ECU, and then running the GM IAT directly to the EMU. However, I do have a problem with this. At this point in time I do not know the correct pull up resistor (bias resistor), so ambient temps show -3c right now. I am working on it, but so far have no solution other than grabbing a variable resistor and playing with that until it reads ambient, but if I can avoid that and someone already knows the solution I would consider that ideal. I know FRED 62 in France runs it this way, but he has not contacted me back yet with what value resistor he is using.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/168836/Pic%2.../GMIATBias.png

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I've read 2.7K Ohm between IAT input and ground, but that's from the EMU thread on 3stech that I believe you've seen. Have you though about using a potentiometer?

Locking the ECU temp is the best way to go IMO. Think of it this way. If the ECU adjusts .5% duty cycle for temp, expecting 360cc injectors, it's actually going to add .5% duty cycle on whatever injectors you have (680cc in my case)

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Originally Posted by B-Man

I've read 2.7K Ohm between IAT input and ground, but that's from the EMU thread on 3stech that I believe you've seen.

Locking the ECU temp is the best way to go IMO. Think of it this way. If the ECU adjusts .5% duty cycle for temp, expecting 360cc injectors, it's actually going to add .5% duty cycle on whatever injectors you have (680cc in my case)

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I do have the ECU IAT's locked. I am thinking that if I match the resistance of the OEM ECU IAT input then I should be able to swap out my current bias resistor and my temps will read correctly. I am just waiting on a local friend of mine with stock MAF and wiring to get me that number.

Sorry, I was directing the locking ECU IAT part more to blindmist.

You're just trying to swap resistors to lock your temp to something other than -3*C? Use a potentiometer until you get the resistance you want?

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Originally Posted by B-Man

Sorry, I was directing the locking ECU IAT part more to blindmist.

You're just trying to swap resistors to lock your temp to something other than -3*C? Use a potentiometer until you get the resistance you want?

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I am trying to find the correct bias load resistor from my 5v source so that the EMU gets the correct temp. Right now with a 2200 ohm resistor it shows -3c at ambient which obviously for Sept in Indiana is not correct :)

Ah, for the EMU. I think I get what you're trying to do now.

I am still lost as to what this A/F harness I have for the EMU is for, and where it hooks up.

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Originally Posted by blindmist

I am still lost as to what this A/F harness I have for the EMU is for, and where it hooks up.

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It is the harness that integrates your WBO2 into your EMU, it will plug into the option 1 or 2 port along side the Greddy MAP sensor.

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Originally Posted by Monster Stealth

It is the harness that integrates your WBO2 into your EMU, it will plug into the option 1 or 2 port along side the Greddy MAP sensor.

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I guess I should get a wideband huh?

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Originally Posted by blindmist

I guess I should get a wideband huh?

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Yes sir :cool: