EZ's FWD TT Conversion Question Thread

Hello 3SGTO,

I have 95' SL N/A. Engine is all caught up on maintenance along, with new oil and water pump. Few other things were replaced as they were brought up by the mechanic. Transmission for the most part is rebuilt due to an unfortunate event while in the body shop, but that brings up bad feelings and memories so I'll leave that as that for now.

This is a surprise for my wife, after she give's birth to our 4th child. My cover up for this project is getting the VSS replaced which it needs badly. After C7's widebody install, new paint, and new wheels and rubber, I don't want smoke choking up a good looking car ha ha.

Parts I have right now:

*9B Turbos no shaft play w/ wastegate accuators & oil lines. I also have 16T wheels w/ machined housings incase I plan on upgrading, but I'm almost 99.9% positive that will not happen.
*Dual Core FMIC (2 hot in/1 cold in) custom piping will be need to be made.
*Exhaust manifolds from VR4.
*O2 housing from VR4.
*Precats from VR4.
*Tanabe downpipe.
*Oil housing from a VR4.
*Oil cooler w/ stainless lines.
*Water housing from VR4.
*360cc injectors.
*Denso fuel pump.
*Injector resistor pack from VR4.
*Front mount bracket.
*MAFT w/ GM MAF.
*Aftermarket radiator w/ hoses.
*Joint on back of engine block.
*DSM BOV.
*EGR block off plates.
*Modified N/A oil pan from member here on it's way.

Electronics:
*BlackStealth's LCDBC is on it's way from the man himself w/ oil pressure transducer & MAC boost solenoid valve from ebay coming as well. I got the old school enclosed version LCDBC.
*Chrome ECU once I fugure out which one I need
*Innovate LC2 MTX EGT Gauge: Will order soon
*Innovate LC2 MTX WBO2: Will order soon
*Apexi SAFC 2: Will order soon

Needing to get:
*All the gaskets still preferably from a supporting vendor

*I'd like to save money where I can on items not needed, but longevity and the health of the car is always priority since I do not want my wife ever stranded on the side of the road. So with that in mind...

Question #1:
I plan to put the gauges in stock location, unless gettting a 3 gauge A pillar pod would be the cheaper route to go when labor is factored in. Do you think 2 EGT gauges are needed for a simple 9b setup?

Question #2:
Really debating going 5 speed AWD transmission, or keeping my stock N/A transmission. Car is not a race car, nor will it be raced, or anything related to that. It is my wife's car which she DD's to work and back in. But I do know she's enjoys the occasional cruise and a little speed when it's safe to. If I do go this route, I will get a LSD to go along with it. If I stay with the stock N/A transmission should I get an LSD as well? I understand the planetary and VCD will need to be welded, and I saved the thread that explains that process. But I'm sure any shop with know how will know how to eliminate the the rear from an AWD. Hopefully at least.

Also I know that I will need the passenger side halfshaft/axle, and center input shaft/axle, and matching transmission mount if I go 5 speed AWD.

Question #3:
Stage 2 or Stage 3 clutch kit for this 9b setup? Thinking a stage 2 should be good enough right?

Question #4:
Solid engine mounts always a good idea? Gonna offer a local guy $80 for the set, and paint them up nicely.

Quesiton #5:
Anybody here use or seen reviews on Innovate's Pocketlogger?

Keeping the stock 10:1.

I always appreciate honesty and solid helpful advice. Thanks for your time. I'm sure there will be more question to ask as I continue to read, and read, and read, and need information cleared up.

For #4, I'd do polyurethane engine mounts, otherwise it's a harsher drive with the solids. If you're set on solids, then I'd only do the side ones & keep the roll stoppers poly.

I got all of them replaced with OEM ones when a majority of the engine work was being done. Appreciate the reply. Thank you.

Stay away from a OBX LSD. Quaife LSD is the only one I know of that's worth a shit.

I'll try and answer more questions when I have more time.

1. EGT on a 9b setup? Why?

2. FWD MTX is by far the very weakest of the 3/s transmission choices. They are made of glass. FWD ATX's are far superior. In your case, I wouldn't even bat an eye and go directly to the 5-speed AWD & mod it.

4. OEM was a good choice. If you only have to replace every 10 years, who cares? I'll take the smoother ride.

5. Since you're keeping it 10:1, I'd say that 8psi is where you should keep it (max). IIRC, this is what has worked well historically on 10:1 builds, and should be fairly reliable.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IPD

1. EGT on a 9b setup? Why?

2. FWD MTX is by far the very weakest of the 3/s transmission choices. They are made of glass. FWD ATX's are far superior. In your case, I wouldn't even bat an eye and go directly to the 5-speed AWD & mod it.

4. OEM was a good choice. If you only have to replace every 10 years, who cares? I'll take the smoother ride.

5. Since you're keeping it 10:1, I'd say that 8psi is where you should keep it (max). IIRC, this is what has worked well historically on 10:1 builds, and should be fairly reliable.

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I was just going off the recommendations from the 2 major threads I've been reading. 1 of them by a member on another board who goes by Iceman, and then Leland from 3sx. Leland even recommended 2 EGT's.

I'm looking for a 5 speed AWD actually. I asked another member what he got his for, so I know a good starting point to go off of. Even though he got a hell of a deal.

OEM it will stay then ha ha. I didn't know solid mounts affected ride quality that much. I contacted a local guy yesterday, and he told me $75 for the set. Looks like I'm going to pass.

Yes I don't want to get out of control on boost. Something easy, and simple to maintain. I don't need my wife getting all crazy about more boost lol!

6-8lbs is lots of fun on 10:1

I had pretty good luck with my 5 speed FWD trans. I ran it about 2 years on 8psi and never broke it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by green-lantern

6-8lbs is lots of fun on 10:1

I had pretty good luck with my 5 speed FWD trans. I ran it about 2 years on 8psi and never broke it.

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ask brian how that same trans has worked out for him. ;)

Question #1:

I found a cali spec 94' VR4 TT wiring harness. Will that work? I know most people plug 2 O2 bungs, and only run 2.

Question #2:
What about a JDM engine harness from a 94'-97' GTO VR4?

Okay did some digging around and came up with the following information:

There is a sticker under the hood on the passenger side that will say wether it's a Cali Spec or Fed Spec car.
*94'-95' Fed Spec VR4's had only 2 O2 sensors.
*94'-95' Cali Spec VR4's had 4 O2 sensors.
*96' and on is when all VR4's got 4 O2 sensors.
*Lastly there is a silver vehicle code plate on the driver's side firewall. If the last two digits of the model number are "2D" then its Fed Spec. If the last two are "7D" its Cali Spec.

EDIT: I just realized this might not have nothing to do with my situation, but I'm learning, and makes me further want to find a 94'-95' vr4 fed spec harness!

From what I remember, you should match the ECU and the harness. It gets more complicated otherwise.

Furthermore, there's also JDM spec ECU's, besides the FED/Cali spec. And the only reason I know this is because I have one in my car, and it only has 1 o2 sensor input. I THOUGHT I bought a 9966, and it functions like a 9966, but it only has 1 o2 sensor. You can ask Shooter83 for more details on that.

JDM ECU, now there's another option. I see the harness all over eBay. I'll have to look into that if all else fails. Thank you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IPD

ask brian how that same trans has worked out for him. ;)

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Brian is a special circumstance, I think the trans witch cursed him

Alright...this thread is about to get busy lol! I'm gonna get this project done with the help of my mechanic buddy, and we gonna see if we can knock this out. Just picked up a used Apexi Neo for a great deal, and gonna order the new gaskets and wideband here soon.

With that being said, Innovate Wideband O2 and LC-2 Tuner Combo or AEM Wideband UEGO Controller AFR Kit w/ New Bosch 4.9LSU? I've been reading a lot about both, and it seems neither run as smoothly as one would like. LC-2 supposed to have fixed all the issues from the LC-1. AEM UEGO seems to be inaccurate. LC-2 was faster and more accurate, while AEM was slower. LC-2 needed more recalibration, and AEM did not. Both seem to be a very easy install from user reviews. Both are the same price. Innovate seemed to have customer service issues, while AEM did not.

Thoughts or personal experience? Thanks!

make sure the NEO is flashed with the right firmware. the 1st gen ones were sketchy.

Yes I asked the seller before I sent funds, it was an eBay purchase. He replied asking if I was going to run it in a Mitsubishi wthout me telling him what kind of car I had, and then said yes it is flashed with the latest firmware and won't have any issues with the karman and maf sensor. The Neo and SAFC 2 were both the same price for used, but damn clean units. I was reading that the Neo offers 16 levels of adjustments, while the SAFC 2 offers 12, and I think the old school SAFC offered 8 IIRC.

Any input on which wideband to get?

....nice:)

Going with a Innovate MTX-L WB02 by the way.

Help me with a game plan.

I have a 5 speed AWD tranny, LSD, and stage 3 clutch kit and flywheel. Along with that I have all the parts for FWD TT conversion. This is what I was thinking, please comment if you think there is a better way.

Weekend 1 w/ Buddy
Saturday:
Drop transmission
Weld planetery gears
Install LSD,
Re-assemble
Install new stage 3 clutch kit and flywheel
Install transmission with AWD passenger axle and transmission mount
Finish install for the day
Done.

Weekend 2 w/ Buddy
Saturday:
Pull engine
Start removing and replacing parts with TT parts (all day and night)
Work as late as possible
Go home

Sunday:
Finish up bolt ons
Drop engine back in
Install intercooler and piping
Remove dash and cluster
Remove old engine harness
Remove old ECU
Install new engine harness
Install new ECU
Install electronics
Install dash and cluster
Stress out about tuning it
Drive home or get towed home

Weekend 3
Saturday:
Go to local tune shop and have them dial it in?

Sunday:
Replace VSS

What do you guys think? My buddy is a ASE master certified mechanic going on 12 years, 16 years total as mechanic. He works at the local Budweiser plant as a diesel mechanic, and has every tool possible we will need along with a lift. He's not worried at all, just wants to look over everything before we start.

Any place where you guys would change things up? Thoughts, anything...

I think that it's going to be though to do all of this in a single day:

Quote:

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Finish up bolt ons
Drop engine back in
Install intercooler and piping
Remove dash and cluster
Remove old engine harness
Remove old ECU
Install new engine harness
Install new ECU
Install electronics
Install dash and cluster
Stress out about tuning it
Drive home or get towed home

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That is quite a lot of work, I'd feel like superman if I managed to do all of that in one day!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Unlogic

I think that it's going to be though to do all of this in a single day:



That is quite a lot of work, I'd feel like superman if I managed to do all of that in one day!

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That's what I needed to hear. Any suggestions, considering I cannot leave the car at the shop during the work week.

1 guy work on pulling the dash, harness, and ECU while the engine it out, while the other finishes the bolt ons? Maybe?

Weekend 2 and 3 are ambitious.

Weekend 2 you need at minimum 1 more day.

Vss with the correct tools and in car might be doable. I would do them when engine is pulled.

If you have to vacate the shop I see at least 2 tow truck trips in there.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

Maybe I'm missing it, but what ECU do you have? You said in your first post you were going chrome? if so, why two piggybacks with a flashable ECU? Seems like a lot of redundancy and extra cost/work. I'd think the MAFT and chrome would be an excellent combo without the NEO in the middle...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CoopKill

Weekend 2 and 3 are ambitious.

Weekend 2 you need at minimum 1 more day.

Vss with the correct tools and in car might be doable. I would do them when engine is pulled.

If you have to vacate the shop I see at least 2 tow truck trips in there.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

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After talking it through with my buddy this is what he want's to do...

Friday afternoon pull and drop tranny. Remove dash and pull harness and ECU. Work till late.

Saturday continue with bolt ons. Work till late.

Sunday finish up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RealMcCoy

Maybe I'm missing it, but what ECU do you have? You said in your first post you were going chrome? if so, why two piggybacks with a flashable ECU? Seems like a lot of redundancy and extra cost/work. I'd think the MAFT and chrome would be an excellent combo without the NEO in the middle...

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I have a 94'-95' fed spec VR4 ECU to go along with my 95' fed spec harness. After talking to Leland, Ray, Hanz, and a few others about what I had going on I was urged to stick with all stock components of a VR4. With that said I sold my 3.5" GM MAF and MAFT, and picked up an entire stock VR4 SMIC and all the piping and MAF. Gonna sell my CX Racing FMIC kit, Dejon pre turbos and filters, and some other stuff I got in a package with everything else. With the help of you I now have everthing to start. I am going to lay everything out and take pictures of each item to verify, and to make sure I'm not missing anything. The only thing I need, but I can pick up from the local parts store is Felpro exhaust manifold gasket. Oh and extra tubing. Also need to verify I can get an10 fittings and hoses to go with the modified oil pan I have.

I'm actually debating putting in the transmission, but we'll see.

How did the conversion go?