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Ive been debating picking up a clutch masters twin disk 7.5" but couldnt find any reviews. I noticed Austin from STM had used one in the past, but couldnt find any other info. Is anyone on here running one? Im worried about setting the clearances since ive read they dont come with any instructions for shimming.
Anyone have any info/reviews?
I own Austin's old one. I haven't run it yet but it is pretty damn nice and looks to be made great.
He ran tons of passes with it with no issues.
I don't think you have to set clearances, because our setup doesn't have an internal slave cylinder. I could be wrong. Mine doesn't have any shims with it... I also haven't installed it yet. That will happen this summer/winter.
I will keep an eye on this myself. Great reviews from the supra guys.
Why not the O.S. Geiken triple disc?
I also don't think you're supposed to shim it. The clutch kit comes with a modified TOB similar to stock just a little different. If we had a hydraulic TOB I'm sure we would have to shim it. I have the 850 kit with a street and race disk setup but I haven't installed it yet. I don't expect it to underperform. If anything it may be a little noisy on engagement but the pedal effort shouldn't be much more than stock.
Hydraulic TOB is what I was meaning to say, not slave cylinder.Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboSinceBirth
That's why the supra guys have to shim. Our pressure plate/TOB pressure rests on the clutch fork, so no shims needed
Alright some good info here. Knowing that i dont need to do any shimming definitely makes me feel better about purchasing one. Has anyone actually installed there clutch?
Ive considered the OS twin disk but wasnt aware of the triple disk
I run the OS Giken R3C, don't think you could ever get this to let go!.
Had a centre hub so all the discs drive from the hub, the hub drives the gearbox input shaft.
It's a thing of beauty, shame you can't see it under the bellhousing..
I thought a few people had issues trying to drag the OS Giken triple clutch?
That would be a bit strange, I know that Quartermaster produced a gear drive version of their twin disk from higher torque Evos and DSMs wearing out the input splines IIRC. Not sure how similar the OSGR3C is, but if anything like the QM arrangement, should be able to handle it without problems. The QM gear drive with a HTOB is the eventual plan for my twin disk flywheel based on what the Evo guys have seen.Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboSinceBirth
Keith,
How is the peddle pressure? I have this clutch one my list.
I have the green pressure plate (stronger than the yellow), pedal is similar to stock with the stock clutch booster plumbed in.
It does grab hard, you can slip it but it's designed as a race clutch first and foremost.
Really well built and finished.
Uses stock release fork and slave cylinder, I fitted a rubber pedal stop on the floor as you dont need the full range of movement of the pedal (well worth doing).
I would like to try a car fitted with the ATS-Across carbon triple just to compare but any multiplate clutched 3s's are few and far between!.
These are my friction plates, just noticed they look slightly different to the ones in the pictures above..
Attachment 7827
Keith thank you, I have been eyin this clutch though RHDJapan.com. I wonder if the green pressure plate would change the price? Because $1,331.02 + $93.64 shipping, is a GREAT price. Sounds like the yellow plate would be exactly like stock then.
And I am not stock I have the Centerforce clutch in my car now (came with the car)
How does that change the characteristics of the clutch?Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithMac
That's a real bargain!, make sure you get the Throw Out Bearing as I'm sure this is different to a standard Mitsubishi one.
Dread to think how much torque you'd have to throw at it to make it slip, probably 900+ftlb..
The purpose of the discs you posted, are they to reduce the "on / off" characteristics of the clutch?Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithMac
I wonder what combination would resemble the stock feel best?
I think the fuller face clutch plates would give a smoother engagement if anything?.
Yeah. The more full face the clutch is, the more friendly it will be. Then you gotta look at the material the disc is made out of, because that changes a lot of the grabbing characteristicsQuote:
Originally Posted by KeithMac
You really need to have a go in a car with one fitted, they are perfectly driveable but I wouldn't go so far as to say stock engagement.
Plus I have solid engine mounts and solid diff bushes (both great upgrades) which takes slack out of the running gear.
You going to be at NG? :suspect:
Bit too far for me to travel unfortunately (I'm in UK)..
Wow thats actually a really good price on what looks to be a very nice clutch. Ill have to consider that route.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fnloud
One thing im curious about, does a lighter clutch/flywheel setup actually reduce the likelihood of being 'blocked' out of gear? One of the Spec clutches on 3SX's website actually states that its a custom spec clutch designed to be lighter to allow a quicker shift without being blocked out of gear... Can any of you clutch gurus shine some light on this? I see a lot of people discuss how a light flywheel can help with downshifting, and that makes perfect sense to me. But can a ligher aftermarket clutch/flywheel combo actually help prevent being blocked out of gear? My trans is only about 2-3 years old but i sometimes get blocked out of 2nd gear if i try to shift fast at the top of 1st gear. This is one of the reasons im looking at a lighter multidisk setup. opinions?
A heavy centre plate can make the synchros struggle to slow the input shaft down to same speed as the output shaft.
Flywheel and pressure plate are supported by the crank so the main gain there is faster engine response due to decreased inertia, downside to that is it's easier to stall though..
The disk itself adds rotational mass to the input shaft, so less mass means the shaft can change speeds faster which means synchros can do their job better. However, just because a clutch has a total lighter package doesn't mean the disk(s) themselves have a lower inertia. You gotta weigh the disks, and with their diameter tells you their inertia.
The moment of inertia is related to Radius^2, so im assuming its more important to get a smaller disk than a lighter disk. Ill measure my stock disk when i get home from work since i think its likely a similar diameter to the OS... or atleast from the pictures it looks similar. Would you have to account for now having multiple disks? Its been a while since i had to actually use my brain for even basic physics problems.
Yes, you have to multiply by how many disks you have
That's 100% correct and why most multi disc clutches are smaller in diameter, so their MOI total ends up being less or comparable to a single stock disc. If you just popped 2 stock discs together in a clutch setup it would be way too heavy to shift.Quote:
Originally Posted by thor'svr4
I don't think you can automatically assume a multi disc clutch will shift better though. Even if the moi is the same or less than stock you have to worry about the floater moving around and causing some drag. I don't design clutches for a living, but that's my opinion.
BTW guys the TOB is not included in that deal at RHDJapan. "SPECIFICATIONS: - Movement kit with Bearing and Sleeve Sold Separately"
Noted but still:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodlust182
O.S. Giken Triple plate clutch: $1,331.02
O.S. Giken TOB___________: $___66.50
Shipping_________________: $___96.51
Total____________________: $1,446.43
Still one amazing deal when you see vendors charging $2,199.95 for the stamped steel twin disc.