I'm talking about the front most bushing. The one that the toe adjustment bolt goes through. There's a bushing and then it also looks like the arms seperates if you slide the arm off the collar?
Specifically #15 and #16 in this diagram
https://www.partswebsite.com/stores/...sE/E715110.gif
Do we have an aftermarket option for those bushings?
I've done them. I think it was 2-3 years ago but there weren't any aftermarket options readily available when I was looking. I think whiteline had something available but was on backorder indefinitely.
The end does come out of the arm. That's where the flex is to allow AWS to work.
how does it flex? via rubber or pivot?
Pretty sure just the rubber flexes. That way if the rear steer rack fails and goes limp, your wheels aren't turning all over the place.
am surprised no has yet removed (#16), weld in a threaded collar for use with a good sized Heim Joint.
I would love for someone to do this because i deleted AWS and it would remove the need for the toe adjustment rods.
the trailing arm metal is really thin, I'm not sure how you'd set something like that up.
You could put a thicker walled tube inside of it and weld that tube to the arm, should be enough surface area for good strength.
I've thought about doing that for years, but it's just not worth the work, IMO.
There is an aftermarket option for those..
Jay Racing Active Rear Toe Eliminator Kit for 1G AWD DSM [ATE1] - $195.00 : Jay Racing
This can only be used on a car with no AWS though.
Edit: It looks like these are held in only by friction, personally I would like to see it a little longer so we could install the stock bolt.
It is just the rubber that flexes, also that part is really hard to remove.
Interesting part. I guess with this you eliminate the assist links to avoid the thing tearing itself apart?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rakuny
I'm sure you could leave aws delete arms on So long as they were adjusted correctly but you wouldn't need them anymore.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rakuny
I'm going to guess that the arm the assist arms travel in causes intentional bump steer to do what this kit eliminates. Keeping it locked to the travel of the assist link may bind up the suspension if the rubber bushing is made solid.
the rod end would take up that movement, those delete links are not changing the motion, just holding it straight* in it's motion that is created by the upper and lower control arms.
edit*
From the site:Quote:
Originally Posted by Rakuny
"1g DSM AWD rear suspensions feature an active toe-control link which increases rear toe-in under cornering and acceleration."
If the assist link arc of travel is different from the upper and lower control arms it will pull the toe in as the suspension compresses. Once you lock that down with the spherical bearing instead of the rubber bushing you are going to start bending and breaking stuff.
My car never had aws, but it still has those rubber bushings in the trailing arm and factory AWS delete links.
Where's abm, he knows all this stuff for sure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
I don't think that our AWS delete arms are equivalent to the 1g dsm active toe control.
It doesn't even really matter though, if this part is installed those links are no longer required, there is no reason to leave them on the car.
Edit: just looked at a picture of the 1g dsm suspension, wow it is close to ours.. I still think that the spherical bearing would take up the movement that is lost from the rubber but again it really doesn't matter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rakuny
the video in the item description shows them welding it in
Oh, good catch! I did not watch the video.
Yes, they cause toe in both in compression and extension, you'll remove the links when going to a spherical bearing. If going this far there's no reason to keep the trailing arm as is, time to cut, tube, and weld.
What makes you say that? Seems to me that there is a large gap between installing something like this and making tubular trailing arms? Thinking in terms of effort and gain in going tubular over this, very curious?
To install these, you're breaking out the welder. It doesn't take that much more effort to cut off the sheetmetal part of the trailing arm and weld on 2 tubes from the bearing carrier to the rose joint mount. It will also be cheaper than buying that kit, and you can use a better joint. 8' of tube max, 2 joints and 2 threaded tube ends. It won't be worth it except for ability to change geometry and for shits and grins.
I am shit with the welder but I finished these up today :D
Attachment 8166
Attachment 8167
Need to order the rod ends still
You need to be making a fair few kits for sale!.
I would either not make any money or not have any sales because of a ridiculously high price. I have hobby sized machines so things take a bit longer to do because of the limitations. Also, this is a pretty complex and large piece. It took 2 set ups in the lathe and 2 set ups in the mill. I have a lot of time into these and I still have to make the bolt spacers.