Going single!

good evening, recently broke up with my gf so now iv had a lot extra time with my true love (vr4 duh)
i posted on here a while ago about tuning with my 15g's, got them from boostmore in cali and they already have so much play they are hitting the housing after 500 miles wtf! anyway i got a refund for those and it was time to do the clutch so i thought what the heck, why not step it up a bit. i think iv read every single turbo thread on here lol i have the exhaust all mocked up with n/a manis and a a twin scroll t4 flange on it. just havent pulled the trigger on a turbo yet, thinking bw s366 or a t70-76. still slightly short on money so im thinking about using the same tune and putting my 482 maf on the end of it for now. dont see any issue with that for just driving around for a few weeks, and so the ice can clear up on the road. my main reason for this post was to ask you all about the maf translator. any of you have any experience with it on chrome? dont think it should be too hard iv done a good amount of research on it. hopefully will have the rest of the parts here in a couple weeks and ill post some pics! got the stage 4 6 puck in tonight so im making good progress. also any other single turbo advice would be appreciated!

Chrome and MAFT work well together. Good Luck

+1 chrome and MAFT working well together.

just be sure to plan out all of your piping before committing. cardboard, paper towel/toilet paper rolls, duct tape...all work wonders together

Interested what you plan to do with the N/A manifolds

Update! Should be tuned and on the road this week ATTACH=CONFIG]7544[/ATTACH]ro

You work fast, well done. Got some specs on the turbo?

Make sure you add some heatshields in there or there's going to be a lot of melted stuff and fire. A turbo beanie will be a good idea too. That heat wrap does sweet fuck all in reality, those pipes as they sit will have no problems destroying that oil feed line, radiator hose, HT leads and rocker cover gaskets for example.

Oh and make sure you put some heat shielding down the firewall, the fluff that's on there won't last long before it smokes up and disappears.

Maybe a little bit late, but have you thought about spinning the turbo 180 degrees and having the downpipe go down around the front? Keeps a lot of heat out of the back of the engine bay where you really don't want it - not an issue if you've got a vented bonnet.

Nice work! Have you checked to make sure your o2 sensor fits under the hood?

Yup everything fits under the hood just fine even both o2's, have to run 2 since I'm on chrome and need one for closed loop. I have a deft racing fiberglass hood that has dual vents to where the rear turbo used to be and also where the factory air cleaner was. The two higest heat areas for this setup so that should help a lot. A lot of the stuff isn't 100% finished like the oil line and all that jazz iI still have a lot of work to do these next two days. And I bought hundreds of feet of heat tape everything is getting covered with that haha. And more wrap for the exhaust too

Attachment 7599 annnnd she's running. Not well but making progress lol

Looking awesome. Once you're up and running, consider moving the throttle body to the other side, it fits nicely and saves about 1m of intake pipe length.

I have a 6G73 intake which is driver's side. Comes with TPS, IAC, MAP, IAT and throttle plate. You may need to modify the throttle body to a larger one as the one that is on it is very restrictive.

Driver side tb will be my next little project. He's a vid if some 60% throttle pulls on 8psi after a base tune. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7BalBRbBXgo

Is it just the lighting or is the engine jumping around a lot on shifts?

Jeremy

Get some solid mounts.

I thought so too at first. But I believe it's the ic piping flopping around thats giving it that effect. I need to fasten it down. My mounts looked good and my crosspipe has a brace on it so there's no reason it would be doing that

Nice work! Are you going to run a spool valve?

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Originally Posted by 1995vr4

I thought so too at first. But I believe it's the ic piping flopping around thats giving it that effect. I need to fasten it down. My mounts looked good and my crosspipe has a brace on it so there's no reason it would be doing that

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The plenum looks to move too.

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Originally Posted by lawdogg

Nice work! Are you going to run a spool valve?

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I don't believe so. At least not yet haha I went with a pretty small hot side to help with spool. Full boost comes in around 3000rpm. I was limiting myself to about 4000 in that video because I was trying to dial in my boost controller at the time

I guess I'll be investigating that today then. It was the first drive so all my attention was focused on many other things lol

get us more videos...I love the way single turbo 3/s cars sound.

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Originally Posted by NOMIEZVR4

get us more videos...I love the way single turbo 3/s cars sound.

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oh the sounds that it makes are unbelievable. Here's another short clip of me giving it a little more throttle at same boost pressure http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fzd_tpP7UlA

Attachment 7634 looks pretty cool too lol

How much power are you going for? Looks alot like my first setup..

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Bq5Ddbp7sDw

They do look very similar! How did yours end up performing? When I finish tuning it I'm hoping for in the 500s to the ground

I made that setup in 2010 using 350z headers flipped and a holset hx50. The hx50 had a huge turbine housing and I had a poor tune on it. I took it off after the first drive. The car sat for a minute and I found out the hx52 was basically the same but with a smaller turbine housing. I installed it along with revising the turbo manifold just a little. I lost steam before I got it started up, traded the setup for some 19ts and drove on them for about a year.

Then I pulled the engine and trans to build, traded the 19ts back for the holset kit. The guy I traded with had modified the manifold again, making it better yet again and added a quick spool valve in the turbine housing itself. I ended up selling the kit before I put it back on.

Now you can follow my current build in my sig. I'm doing completely a custom single turbo kit based off of IPS's and shiver_91vr4's kits mounting the turbo in front of the trans. I was set on using a GTX42, but precision came out with a Gen2 6870. I just ordered my pte 6870 dual ball bearing turbo with a quick spool valve and should be receiving them soon. The turbo is rated for 1100rwhp and has made 1059rwhp on a supra with a smaller turbine housing. We'll see how this bad boy performs and if I can get close to 1000 on e85. If I crack 900, ill be more than happy.

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Originally Posted by Unknownvr4

I made that setup in 2010 using 350z headers flipped and a holset hx50. The hx50 had a huge turbine housing and I had a poor tune on it. I took it off after the first drive. The car sat for a minute and I found out the hx52 was basically the same but with a smaller turbine housing. I installed it along with revising the turbo manifold just a little. I lost steam before I got it started up, traded the setup for some 19ts and drove on them for about a year.

Then I pulled the engine and trans to build, traded the 19ts back for the holset kit. The guy I traded with had modified the manifold again, making it better yet again and added a quick spool valve in the turbine housing itself. I ended up selling the kit before I put it back on.

Now you can follow my current build in my sig. I'm doing completely a custom single turbo kit based off of IPS's and shiver_91vr4's kits mounting the turbo in front of the trans. I was set on using a GTX42, but precision came out with a Gen2 6870. I just ordered my pte 6870 dual ball bearing turbo with a quick spool valve and should be receiving them soon. The turbo is rated for 1100rwhp and has made 1059rwhp on a supra with a smaller turbine housing. We'll see how this bad boy performs and if I can get close to 1000 on e85. If I crack 900, ill be more than happy.

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Those power numbers are crazy. I fully think twins are the way to go for our cars but I like being different. As of right now I'm not looking for huge numbers but eventually will. I'm pretty young so I'm still learning and just found a good career path so hopefully soon I'll have more money to play with. I still have a fairly stock drive train besides a rebuilt trans and clutch so that will be my next move

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Originally Posted by 1995vr4

I don't believe so. At least not yet haha I went with a pretty small hot side to help with spool. Full boost comes in around 3000rpm. I was limiting myself to about 4000 in that video because I was trying to dial in my boost controller at the time

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That's great! With a 3L? You've gotta be happy about that.

Yeah 3k is pretty good. With my T04 I wasn't hitting full boost until something stupid like 4200 on the dyno.

keep in mind full boost is 8 psi right now...

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Originally Posted by Forest Gump

keep in mind full boost is 8 psi right now...

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And watching the tach, and listening to the engine, doesn't support the 3,000 rpm notion. I'd like to see a log. Looks more like 4,xxx but that's just going off of a yt video. :)

Jeremy

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Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy

And watching the tach, and listening to the engine, doesn't support the 3,000 rpm notion. I'd like to see a log. Looks more like 4,xxx but that's just going off of a yt video. :)

Jeremy

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Agreed. But that was a lower gear. 3rd gear log would be nice.

If it's running 8psi just off the gate, it's going to crack a little early. Add a MBC and a little boost and it will hit target boost quicker.

Yes true. In the vids i wasn't punching it. When I get into the throttle it is spooled around or shortly after 3k. And yes I'm only at 8psi as of right now it most certainly will take a little longer after fully tuned and at target boost. I will post up a log when I can, I noticed some drips of oil last night so I pulled the trans to check the rear main. Don't think I got it perfect let seated so I'm waiting for a new one to come in first.

Great for you man! When I clicked this thread I thought it would be all hype and no results like 90% of the threads. I was shocked when I saw a picture posted a month after your original post! Sounds awesome! Sounds like it is running fairly smoothly. Keep us updated as you get it tuned/boost turned up.

Haha thank you! I know every single thread iv seen is all hype. I just like being different that was my main reasoning to do it. And to test myself and my fabricating skills. This is defiantly the biggest fab project iv ever done. But yes tuning is going slow and steady as iv been busy the past few weeks. Virtual dyno has me at 400 ish to the ground. I'd like another 150 to 200 when all is said and done.

Update: haven't been able to do much tuning as we seem to get a huge snowstorm every week and roads are always slick. But when the time comes How far would you guys push a stock motor? Everywhere I read numbers are all over the place. I know tuning will make a huge difference and its not something you can put an exact number on but what are some numbers you've seen. I recently rebuilt my entire engine with all new oem parts after a spun bearing. Rods, crank, cams, pistons heads and so on. At the time I was on 15g's so I want worried about pushing it too hard. But currently my setup should be capable of a lot more. I know ray has hit mid 600 ' s on a 180k motor. But mine is brand spanking new. How far should I take it before thinking about another rebuild?

I wouldn't push past 600 to the ground. The rods are near the limit there.

Jeremy

run 450 for a little while, check the oil filter for bearing material, get a blackstone analysis if you can afford it. Run 500 for a while, repeat. 550, etc.

wish I would've done that, lol. Oil filters are cheap!

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Originally Posted by Forest Gump

run 450 for a little while, check the oil filter for bearing material, get a blackstone analysis if you can afford it. Run 500 for a while, repeat. 550, etc.

wish I would've done that, lol. Oil filters are cheap!

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I fully intend to do it in slow steps like that. Also learned the hard way haha I'm just getting anxious to tune further. Anything over 500 to the ground and I would be perfectly happy till I can save up for some better internals

sorry to bring this thread back to life but i have a quick question. hurts to ask as i usually like to figure things out on my own. but i pulled the engine and built it up last week to support for the power im wanting. nothing too radical. upon starting it up i had no spark and fuel. did all the routine tests (wont be my first time with this issue) and the crank sensor wasnt sending out a signal. replaced it as i must have damaged it while rebuilding and now i have spark but no fuel. pump is on and i have pressure in the rails but thats it. mfi is working as im getting voltage at the injectors and hear it clicking. checked ptu, re flashed my ecu just in case, cam sensor is getting power and boucing btwn 5v and 0v while cranking. crank sensor has voltage but no reading on the signal wire. its brand new? timing is lined up, little plate thingy that passes through it is lined up. andy ideas why its not sendig a signal? also if it were the crank sensor and that only woulnt i be having spark issues also? any advice would help as im anxious to get it on the streets again!

Attachment 7737On another note I got the bay re sprayed and a nice g4m paint scheme going on :)