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I installed Megan Coilovers and a camber kit from Ninja Performance. Took the car to get aligned and the toe wont come into spec. One side barely got in spec but only because the weld around the adjuster broke at some point and allowed for it to move further than designed.
Has anyone else had issues with alignments after lowering theirs?
Type of car and which end won't adjust would be helpful.
Sorry about that.Quote:
Originally Posted by anyonebutme
92 R/T TT toe on the rear wont come into spec, either side.
driver side is 1.46*
passenger is .38*
Driver side is the side with the broke weld on the adjustment plate
Did you disconnect the rear steering rack end links?
i did not
Disconnect them and do alignment first then thread them out like tie rods until they drop into the holes.
If both the camber kit and the factory lower control arms are set too far in or too far out, you'll never be able to get the toe into spec.
That brings up this question. Are you trying to align with the factory rear LCA's? If so you are not going to get it into spec. You need aftermarket adjustable ones, like the one Maximal Performance sells.
I'm assuming that's what he meant by camber kit was the adjustable control arms.Quote:
Originally Posted by stealthee
You could be right. When I read camber kit I assumed aftermarket front camber bolts.
to clear up some statements,
I installed these adjustable camber arms from ninja performance --- Ninja Performance 3000GT/Stealth Camber Arms (NPUpperCamberArms) - Ninja Performance - Affordable
I also did some looking on the car and through the maintenance manual and have come to the conclusion that neither of the two shops I took it to loosened the toe adjustment bolt.
I am going to finish tinkering with the ride height some more and then take the car back along with the manual and make sure they are doing it properly.
Do you still have the stock AWD?
Toe is controlled on the rear by the rear steering rack or adjustable heim joints like the ones you used for the camber if you have no AWD.. There is no reason they should not be able to get the toe back into spec. The rear steering has the same type of adjustable tie rod ends as the front.
They need to do it in the correct order though:
1. Unhook the steering tie rod ends.
2. Get the camber straight and zero'd out.
3. re attach the tie rod ends
4. adjust the toe.
Adjustment isn't in the steering tie rods, it's in the front rear-trailing arm eccentric.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
My AWS is removed and I have Heim joints, that is how I align my toe. I'm also on Intrax springs.
Adjusted it once and it has been locked the same for years now. I get my alignment done 5-6 times a year and the rear has always been zeroed out every time.
You're putting unnecessary stress on the rubber bushings on the front of the trailing arm.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
Attachment 6650
Sorry, hard to see in the pictures from the manual, but it's page 33A-6 in my manual
Well I'll be damned. I don't remember ever seeing that adjustment bolt. I wouldn't say it is stress though as the stock AWS moved that arm the same way to turn the rear wheels. Since the rear arm is now locked into place it should minimize any stress and wear as there is no longer any movement.
The front bushing is made of rubber, which is what allows the trailing arm to move/steer. It's not meant to have constant pressure on it. If it works for you and everything's aligned, maybe your front bolt is close enough.
Either way, back to the original issue. If you adjust BOTH upper and lower control arms in (shorter) you will make the car toe out. Do this if you're out of adjustment up front.
Update. I took the car back along with a photocopy of the proper alignment procedure and it magically worked, lol. Car is aligned and all is right with the world.
Thanks for all the input guys.