Grinding Noise from Passenger Rear Wheel...

Anywhere from 0-35mph I hear a grinding noise. Its not constant it only happens for a portion of one cycle of the wheel. The noise is more noticeable when the brakes are not applied, when they are it just quiets down a little. Not feeling any vibration in the brake pedal, just in my seat. Anything above 35-80mph I can't hear it anymore. I bought the car with drilled and slotted rotors but I cannot see any cracks in them and they feel very smooth to the touch. I briefly looked at the dust shields as well, they look like shit and appear to be rusting out very quickly but they don't seem to be in contact with anything that is spinning.

Does anyone have any ideas? The car is a 97 vr4 with exhaust, intake, tien s springs and 145k on the clock.

Thanks in advance, John

Where the dust shields bolt on could be rusted away and grinding. You cannot see that unless you take of the tire and I believe brake caliper. That was the case in my car at least.

Could be a wheel bearing, or it could be the brake pads themselves.

did you check the back side of the rotors to check for any wear marks or groves?

Wheel bearing or the brakes should be the culprit.

I just replaced the rear outer wheel bearings in my Stealth. The symptom was a noticable whine/grumbling from the rear at speeds ABOVE 35 mph.

Just a heads up....

Bob.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by VR-4 0wnz j00

Wheel bearing or the brakes should be the culprit.

---

What he said. ....also check the wear indicator on the brake pads.

I have also noticed that I can drive for 10-15 minutes before the noise begins. Here are some pics of that rear passenger rotor.
[IMG]http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...4/IMG_1544.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...4/IMG_1545.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...4/IMG_1543.jpg[/IMG]

Does anyone happen to know what kind of rotors I have? I bought the car with them already installed. They look kind of rusty...

Jack the car up, pull the wheel, spin the rotor. You most likely have wheel bearing going out as mentioned. Mine did the exact thing and this is how I found out what it was.

It will not tell you which bearing (inner/outer) it is, but while you are there it's best to do both. Should only cost $170ish. If it's way more than that look elsewhere for your work to be done. The bearing are in the $25 x 2 plus $18 for the seal give or take.

Coopkill, That seems like it makes alot of sense. First thing tomorrow I'll go buy a floor jack and take the wheel off. Is OEM the best way to go or are there any better aftermarket replacements? I did a quick search but didn't find anything. Also, if it is the wheel bearing then should I just replace bearing/s or the entire wheel hub. I would just like to do it right the first time...

If you replace the hub it will be much more money, I think when I did it was around $300ish. Maybe a little less. Remeber though I have a Vr4, so may be a bit less for you...

He also has a VR4.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Modern 3kGT

Does anyone happen to know what kind of rotors I have? I bought the car with them already installed. They look kind of rusty...

---

Yours look a lot like mine which are RaceConcepts.

http://jns.jimnshar.com/0f480a90.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by stealthee

He also has a VR4.

---

Then he will need to remove the four bolt holding the axle to the hub, and possibly the caliper to check for issues...

My bad, I thought I seen 3000gt next to his avatar. Must have been looking at one above or below his post.:(

A VR4 is still a 3000GT. :p

Is this a project that I could do myself? I do have experience working on cars but nothing to indepth. I am great at following directions!! Or should I just leave this one to a trained professional?

Petty straight forward, but I do believe you would need a press to remove and install the bearings. That was why I paid to get mine done.

Someone here (Stealthee) would have a better answer to your question though. I was going off what I was told at the time...

I've never done a VR4 rear wheel bearing so I am not 100% sure.

Brian, just so you know, I've done both the inners and outers on my Stealth (TT).

Inners, piece of cake...no press, but my sis in laws "friend" did have tool to tap the inners on....(a piece of pipe with the right OD would have worked as well).

The outers REQUIRE a press for the reluctor rings (ABS) and the bearings (both on and off).

I just VERY recently got my outers off of ROCKAUTO for $8 each plus shipping....my inners were closer to $25 per from Rockville (when they were still around).

The outers solve my grinding/rumbling issue (THANKFULLY!!!)

Bob. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by OhioSpyderman

....my inners were closer to $25 per from Rockville (when they were still around).
Bob. :)

---

I never even knew Rockville had stopped servicing Mitsubishi! I see they are now strictly Kia. :rolleyes:

I guess more and more parts for these cars will have to come from the aftermarket route as they continue to "age".

As it turns out the driver side rear caliper is not functioning properly. The rotor is all kinds of chewed up, there is not much pad left and they say the rotor is more than likely warped which is why I'm hearing that oscillating sound as I drive down the road.

Anyone know where I can find a cheap rear tt caliper?? I think I'm going Carbotech Slotted Rotors and their Bobcat Pads all the way around.

Anyone else have any other opinions or preferences on brakes in general?

Thanks again everyone...