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I am wondering if I can get this job done in a few days realistically:
Put 300M shaft in brand new trans
Install poly engine mounts
Install new trans/TC
You can see the work we have done to the car in my sig. My dad has done tons of stuff like this but never on a VR4. We have a big garage, engine lift, etc.
Also, do you think it would be ok to road race/autocross on a pretty fresh clutch? Want to get this done in time to race at NG..
I could probably get that done in a weekend if I was motivated without too much trouble.
The rear mount is going to be a bitch with the turbo in the way though... probably faster to just pull the rear turbo or at least the precat.
2 peeps, in a long day, with a lift it should be much easier. The rear mount can be a hassle. We pulled the drivers side axle, and down pipe out. Managed without pulling the o2, or turb.
If I could do it in two days I would be good. I am worried about the rear mount now, though. I'm pretty confident stuff is going to break when I take off the rear turbo lol
Just about getting the right angle to access the bolts, it was a 3 cuss word moment, but no tools were thrown.
When I did my rear mount, my trans was out, and I did it all from under the car. From what I've read, it saved a lotta swearing. I've swapped trannies in a day... putzing...
Note: I did not have to remove a turbo to change the rear mount with the trans out
Yeah, if you have to pull the trans anyway wait til it is out to do the rear mount.
I could probably have all that done in a few hours. Then again I have a lot of practice pulling transmissions. The AWD trans might add an hour. :lol:
I'd say that you should be able to get all that out in two days with two people tackling it no problem. Gaining access to the rear engine mount w/o removing the turbo isn't too hard. However, it can be somewhat of a PITA getting to two of the bolts w/o the turbo removed.
The transaxle by myself took about nine hours to do (bagging & tagging along the way) & the two roll stopper mounts (front & rear) were probably around an hour w/cleaning.
Just anticipate having some crappy, questionable engine mount bolts beforehand & have several new ones on-hand before realizing that you need new ones as you're doing the job...Needing to make another parts order through Cherry Hill slowed down my progress/motivation some.
Thanks for all the advice and encouragement, guys!
Street Chally, which bolts? The ones that go through the rubber on the ones that hold the mounts to the car?
No, those should be in good shape still. The bolts that hold the mount to the subframe were another story, though.
Granted, you might have gotten lucky & not had a complete idiot own your car before you, so maybe they aren't ruined...Mine were in bad shape, though, & the bastards are rather steep $$-wise (like $7/ea).
I got clutch changes down to a lazy day (need another body to operate engine hoist though).
It's just time consuming really and depends on how arsed/ motivated you are..
I did rear mount same time as turbo swap.
With air tools should take less than a day with two people to pull the trans and reinstall it. Heck, greenlantern and I pulled it in about 5 hours without air tools and access to the rear motor mount is very easy at that point. No reason it couldn't be done in two days short of jacked up bolts and stuff. I agree with having fresh hardware on hand for those bolts though, it's not too expensive and insures that you don't get hung up waiting on shit if yours are shitty. Greenlantern and I will be replacing at least one of them that was pretty well fubar.
I don't know why all of these threads devolve in to who has the record time for getting something done. I thought the point was to give a first timer a realistic timeframe... If it is your first time it may take you a day to safely swap an output shaft...
Thanks for all the input guys.
As Forest mentioned, I am looking for a very conservative estimate being that it is an old car that has never been apart and it is my first time. Two of the guys on this board have offered to help and my dad has swapped transmissions on other cars so I'm hoping it won't be too bad. Just seems like everytime I work on this car something doesn't fit right/something breaks/etc.
Trying to decide if I want to attempt this and possibly not have my car at NG or skip it and have the car popping out of second lol
Hell I bet since you are in the city that NG is to be it can happen in 3 hrs at NG! :suspect:
Haha Seriously. Just show up Tuesday night with the trans in the hatch. Probably won't even need to bring tools.Quote:
Originally Posted by CoopKill
Somehow didn't realize it was your first time swapping on a 3S..I still think that 5 to 6 hours to remove it is pretty realistic with two people, but could take up to 8 or 9 hours. Just remember to bust lug nuts and the axle retaining nut loose before getting it hoisted into the air, if you forget, the 2nd person could always stand on the brakes as well. And of course, take pictures and bag everything as you go.
Swapping the output shaft and putting a new trans in, may be a different story, although no reason you couldn't do the output shaft before hand is there? Rear motor mount will be easier with most of that stuff out of the way still, but that will likely still be probably the better part of an hour if I had to guess (assuming Seattle Polys, if 3SX may be worse because sometimes the pin holes aren't centered and straight)
Sorry, I assumed you'd be doing the output shaft swap beforehand as well to take your time over that part.
Anything can happen when you delve into these cars for the first time!, need to remove exhaust to pull transfer box (both could be siezed solid ;)).
You could get hung up for hours drilling and tapping bolts out or it could go straight forward..
I'm hoping it will be manageable.. I have had the exhaust and TC off already. The car has 170K on it so I am assuming the clutch was changed at some point (still holding strong). Also, one of my friends has put a 300M into his trans so his experience should be helpful. But then again it is a 3/S lol
Double, triple and quadruple check the output shaft seal is correct before fitting the trans in the car. Plenty of threads on here with people having oil leaks due to the seal being nicked by the shaft..
Is there a write-up somewhere for the 300M install? I searched all over but could only find the one saying how to do it in the car.
PS I'm going home tomorrow morning and hoping to have everything done by sunday evening. Wish me luck!
remove bellhousing and mid case.
remove vcu/center diff assembly.
knock the roll pins in enough to get the end cap off the center diff housing.
slide output shaft out. slide new one in and reasssemble
Sorry to keep bumping.. just trying to get everything in line and ready to go. What sealant do you guys use? I've searched and everybody says something different: Red RTV, Ultra Black, Grey, Right Stuff, Mitsu, etc. I'm guessing that means they all work? lol
pretty much they will all work. gray seems the most proper besides the mitsu crap. It takes very little as they are machined surfaces.
Wait! I spent $30 on Mitsu grey, and it's crap? :p
Only crap cause you bought it Bill :p
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Got it all apart today and got the shaft in. Just gotta seal the trans back up and install tomorrow. Thanks to HardAttack for helping install the shaft. It was a little intimidating to crack open a brand new OEM trans but it wasn't too hard.
I'll let you know about the engine mounts. Not sure I can get them done/wanna mess with them right now.
Update: I wish I would have taken pics for the 300M install. It wasn't bad with someone to help but I would like to make a write up on it. The front diff just pulls out, as does the VCU (with some wiggling of the gearset). Knock the pins in and the end cap of the VCU assembly comes off. You can then take the pins out, switch the shafts, and put the pins back in from the outside. Put everything back making sure all the gears are meshed well. When you put the case back together, make sure the shift "rods" are lined up in the slots of the case before you start beating on the case to close the gap. Make sure all the "U" shaped things are lined up and the shift shaft is lined up before you jam it in there. Put some grease on the spring so it doesn't fall off. Pretty sure the torque spec was 18 foot pounds for the case.
Got the 3SX poly mounts in (actually my dad did). He took off all the brackets on the bottom between the subframe and the block. Then he used a swivel 3/8" ratchet to get the four bolts out. Glad he did that for me because I was going to skip it cause it looked like a PITA. All the old mounts were in great shape except the rear mount which was toast.
The flywheel and clutch is also in really good shape. Shame not to put it back in but I've got a 6 puck calling my name.
This happened to me recently. It really got me depressed seeing that puddle of trans fluid and knowing that I have to do it all again....:BangHead: "Faaaaaacck"!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithMac