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Hotwired Aeromotive 340 at idle with 18" of vacuum..... :lol:
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...ps26e4f0df.jpg
Yea, I don't think I'm going to bother tuning around that.... :D Tomorrow it's going to become a two speed pump. We'll see how that works out...
It would be very interesting to see if you could get the Aeromotive 340 to work with the stock FPR. I've been considering the same setup myself.
I've got a two step on my Supra pump that doesn't need ANY resistors. I bet it will work on the AEM 340 as well.
Got any more details?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimvr4
Wow :lol:
Why not run aftermarket FPR? I can bring the FP down at idle on a hotwired walbro 416 or twin 340's. Then you have the ability to raise FP if you need to also.
Edit: Great info BTW and thanks for posting!! So much guessing and hearsay on this subject. Glad someone provided real data.
Pretty sure my Walbro 255 is over running the stock FPR at idle, I guess I should put a gauge on it...
5x stock resistor packs tied together? :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by RealMcCoy
Ability to keep the stock (clean looking) fuel lines/rails and the stock ECU has this ability anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
Those were my reasons for going that route anyway.
I see in your sig you have an AEM... That allows you to prime the system for startup. We can't do that with a stock ECU. Find me an aftermarket regulator that won't leak down, and I'd be interested. Cranking on your motor long enough to build fuel pressure gets annoying.Quote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
That, and I like the idea of slowing the pump down and not working it so hard when it's not needed.
The Chrome "Fuel Pump on Clutch" mod was designed for this reason.Quote:
Originally Posted by RealMcCoy
We'll find out shortly, it's almost done, but it was pulling 15 amps as the above pic was taken... I'm theorizing that the same doubled up resistor I use on the supra pump will do the trick.Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg E
Still has a slight overrun... Averaging around 41 psi at idle. I'm probably going to leave it there. I should be able to tune around that quite easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by RealMcCoy
Is it the Wally 400, or the aero 340 that does not like anything but full voltage? I read somewhere it was not good to run one at a lower voltage, unsure which now.
I can't comment on the Wally, but the Aero 340 is specifically advertized to be suitable for PWM applications.Quote:
Originally Posted by CoopKill
Ok, I will take a look at my info when I get a chance. It must be the wally instructions I was thinking of.
Sent from the Man Cave!
*\( ^o^ )/*
Good work!Quote:
Originally Posted by RealMcCoy
I run a hotwired 340lph pump with a Fuelab 515 FPR and a gauge. After leaving the car for 2 weeks it started within seconds. Obviously the leakdown isn't that bad on it.
My fuel pressure leaks down on twin walbros with Sytec fpr when stood, but it will fire up within 2 seconds after being left a week or more..
I've run a single Walbro 255, Denso Supra, twin Walbro 255s, Aeromotive Stealth 340, and now a Walbro 416 E85 fuel pump on the stock fpr. You can definitely tune it out. Anyone that says otherwise hasn't bothered testing it. I've even pegged the wideband lean at idle before experimenting because I thought overrun would be an issue. I still recommend an AFPR for better control but sometimes it's nice to keep things simple and closer to stock.
I've got my ARC2 pegged right now trying to compensate for the extra psi at idle, if only I had one more click :lol:
There seems to be a lot of fuel pump, fpr and voltage regulation knowledge in this thread.
Whats the simplest and most less intrusive way to ensure that there is enough fuel for a set of 560cc injectors on our cars?
Enough fuel? Hotwired Walbro 255lph would be the easiest.
Adjust the low more negative and add more positive to the accel. They're both dependent on each other. You can get more adjustment out of it while still maintaining a good cruising AFR and idle AFR.Quote:
Originally Posted by mb3000
Yeah, my accel is maxxed. Only way to get good idle & cruise with my setup.
It shouldn't be. I've set one up on 8-9 cars and always stayed at +1 to +3 on the accel no matter what size injectors. Any vacuum leaks will cause problems too.Quote:
Originally Posted by mb3000
I'm running the walbro 416 on the stock fpr (new one though) and didn't even notice any tuning issues. That is with 1050 cc injectors on pump 93 for a while. If you have any resolution with your tuning device it doesn't matter a whole lot.
Running the pump at lower voltage may help the pump life though. I'm just not willing to hackup the stock fuel system unless it was absolutely necessary.
Thats the same thing I was thinking about when I asked this question a few posts up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlogic
In my humble opinion all you guys running big amp draw pumps on tiny stock wiring are just asking to let the smoke out....
Minor rear turbo O ring leak past 25psi, other than that the system is 100% sealed. I used to do the same +1-3, however i couldn't get perfect 14.7 cruising. The way I have it now, -1, -7, 7, 16 allows me to achieve ~ 14.7 when cruising and idle. If I do the typical ACCEl setup I run 3, -7, 7, 1. This puts me in the 12 &13's when running around on the interstate. Not acceptable IMO.Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboSinceBirth
Really, why? Stock wiring is dropping only 1 volt or so. Stock wiring is 16 awg which is .004 ohms per foot. Yes you can drop a couple of watts of power across the wire but that's over many feet.Quote:
Originally Posted by RealMcCoy
I'm running a hotwire. no way I would run a walbro 416 on stock wires.Quote:
Originally Posted by RealMcCoy
Something doesn't sound right mechanically or electrically but I guess if it works. I'd be curious what your fuel trims are.Quote:
Originally Posted by mb3000
I can try to get a log when the snow clears up..
It does depend on the tuning device... This car in particular is using an SAFC. (not exactly the pinnacle of sophistication) Typically quite easy to tune with 450's or 550's due to the fact you're just using the stock map times a multiplier, and tweaking the areas that the load cells get messed up... A little overrun is no big deal to tune around, people have been doing it for years, but when taken to an extreme, you're trying to reinvent the wheel with a tuning device that isn't even load based...Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
The one thing that bugged me about this particular case, was that I was having to pull so much fuel at idle, that it dropped the MAFS Hz below the 31 Hz threshold. when that happens, you can pull all the fuel you want, the ECU is still going to use 31 hz... Pull 25%, 31 hz, pull 40%, still 31 hz... At that point you're relying on the trims to pull enough fuel to keep the mixture correct, so you can forget getting them anywhere near 100. After fixing the fuel pressure, this car was running 37-43 hz, and the fuel trims were hovering around 100 with the expected correction.
No hacking necessary... While I typically remove the fuel pump relay and a couple inches of the harness(saved for future re-install if it ever needs to go back to stock) It could easily be done at the fuel pump relay connector, with no cutting of the harness at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
While I do prefer a larger wire, 0 voltage drop, and having the pumps full capability available, the wire isn't my concern... It's the connectors that are likely to turn to bacon long before the wires fail...Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimvr4
Agreed, I ran into similar issues running the evo 560 cc injectors with a SAFC.Quote:
Originally Posted by RealMcCoy
By hacking I was referring to some who would want to run an aftermarket FPR and start using non stock fuel lines. The wireing doesn't concern me if carefully done.
Don't get me wrong I am interested in your solution, it is just easy for the uninformed to draw the conclusion that you MUST have an aftermarket FPR or other method to run these big pumps.