Ok. So, running chrome, just put 750cc injectors in, drained tank and put e85 in.
I set the voltages for the injectors and set the size to 525 for the extra 30%. Car won't start. Did I forget something? Not even getting a sputter.
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Ok. So, running chrome, just put 750cc injectors in, drained tank and put e85 in.
I set the voltages for the injectors and set the size to 525 for the extra 30%. Car won't start. Did I forget something? Not even getting a sputter.
Hmm did I have to up the fuel pressure for RC750's compared to stock?
575 is what you should start with (750/1.3).
If the car won't even cough it is something mechanical/electrical. The tune can be ridiculously off and it will still try to run.
Actually you probably have residual gasoline in your lines so it probably flooded the engine. Unhook your fuel lines and drain them (crank for a second or two) then try again
post your original pump scaling values.
My PTE/Rochester 1000's are scaled at 745 on 93 and 590 with e85. What were your fuel trims before you switched to e85?
When I switched to e85, I literally just pulled in, pumped 6 gallons of e85, rescaled and she started right up no problems at all. I held the gas for like 20 seconds after initially starting to run out the pump as quickly as possible but it started right up.
Everything fuel tuning was just whatever stock was i didn't touch anything in those areas.
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Wouldn't the residual gas just overflow back into the tank?
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Here is my fuel/air system, 3.75gm maf/maft blow through, dual wallys hotwired, 750 injectors, 3sx fuel rails, 6 or 8an fuel lines dont remember fuelab fpr, stainless filter. I think thats everything.
yeah it will, but the car will run momentarily really rich while the pump gas is still in the injectors. Mine took maybe 10 seconds to clear up. Like posted above you may just have fouled the plugs. clean the front 3 and see if it hits.Quote:
Originally Posted by hellssephiroth
Will do. Ill clean them up in the morning after work.
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Do you have a stock ecu you can plug in from a TT or SL? Plug either of those in and IF the engine is in time and has compression, fuel and spark it will fire first key regardless of fuel type and injectors. It's a really quick way to eliminate ecu setup issues. .
More than likely it's a fuel line break in the tank or an ignition lead issue. Some good advice has been given. The board will help get you down the road man.
Ok, got home and it fired right up. Must have just been flooded. It runs but runs like crap lol. Running Real lean, plugs white after idling. Idled at about 18ish afr. I see my rear 02 sensor is no longer registering though :( hope I didn't mess up a wire, sensor is only a month old. I changed my injector size to 575 also.
your injector scaling seems to be off. First thing you want is your o2's to cycle while idling...after it warms up. Play around with the scaling and see what settings get you closer to the ballpark of when the sensors start to cycle and then you will know you're in the right direction.
rear o2 isn't showing any voltage at all, front one does.... hmm should i just buy another? I'll have to see if there is a way to test it.
bought a new o2, at least it reads voltages now. Didn't fix anything though.
laaaaame. Stripped plenum stud back out. Time to pick up helicoils I think.
new update. just went for a cruise with it all weird anyways to see what afrs looked like. It seems my cruising afr and boost afr look pretty good i think. 14-15 cruise and 10.5-11 ish boost. Its just the off the gas that is terrible.
Lot of rpm bouncing and it seems like setting the idle screw doesn't do anything at all.... makes no sense to me. Hey Greg :) do you ever get around central WI? I would totally pay you to see if you can figure this out, or anyone that thinks they could for that matter.
I come home to Madison every Christmas. :)
Awww :( lol wont have the car out then.
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I know these are different cars, but these are the scaling's we usually use on 91 pump, and E85 for RC750's on Evo's
RC 750s
Scaling-665 (E10)
Scaling-551 (E85)
Volts MS
4.69 3.576
7.03 1.944
9.38 1.296
11.72 0.984
14.06 0.768
16.41 0.624
18.68 0.504
So take 665/1.3=511
So I would scale at 511. Then go from there.
What do your fuel trims look like?
You want those as close to zero as you can get.
If its also idling like crap, make sure your AFR and your timing are pretty static at idle. This will help you.
10.5-11 ish boost is to rich for E85. 11.7+ is where you want it in boost. Spool I would be in the 12.8's to 13.2's range.
If none of that helps, I would try to idle it in open loop to see if that makes it smoother.
I used a different formula for injector scaling that better matches the true injector scaling. Using the scaling numbers you posted will cause the car to run rich.
The latency numbers are still the same though.
Different car also, I will start with those scaling and latency's then dial it in from there. I can get a car to pretty much match the AFR map under WOT, maybe a .5 drift to one side or the other, and STFT in the 1-3 range with a long term about the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg E
The scalings are definitely on the richer side of what he posted. I was just giving him a couple more idea's.
Are you using --(New injector size * Original scale value) / Original injector size--- as your formula?
i skimmed the posts so if im echoing something sorry.
i saw you say your off throttle is crappy but cruise and whatnot are good. i can almost guarantee you have a boost leak (read vacuum leak).
If i do i just cant find it..... I pumped up to 20 and blew my tester off. I still couldnt hear anything. I even borrowed a fog machine to see if i could see air movement..... Unless im not testing right? I have been sealing off one turbo and pumping air in the other.
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:confused: For my scaling i originally did 750 *0.7 thinking that would be 30% richer for the e85. That came out to 525 which i had a few people tell me I did it wrong so i did 750/1.3 and that was 575. Both of them seemed to run about the same just different rpm levels.
No, I'm talking about the formula for the Chrome XML for injector scaling (x*.015). The value that's translated from hex in the ROM.Quote:
Originally Posted by llabmik2
In either case, a simple correction to the injector scaling isn't going to cure this.
My memory isn't so good. I'm pretty sure we've talked about your car before but I have so much going on right now my mind is a blur. Some of these questions maybe redundant but let's go thru them again.Quote:
Originally Posted by hellssephiroth
That said, I finally watched your video. I noticed you aren't logging anything. Can I ask why? I also noticed your obsessing over the wideband when you should be looking at fuel trims and narrowbands.
Also noticed you're running a MAFT in blow thru. Which version of the MAFT are you running? What MAF are you runing? Does it have screens?
Not to scare you, but between ray and myself there are over a dozen cars running the MAFT and the only ones that work perfectly are the MAFs setup in draw thru. Every car with issues is setup in blow thru.
Why? While I'm sure it can work (I haven't run it in any of my personal vehicles) there's gonna need to be some fine tuning. The stock airflow tables were setup for a MAF in draw thru so some tweaking to those tables will need to be done in order to get it to work right in blow thru.
Take a log for me and post it. Need to see 2 byte airflow, 2 byte load, short term fuel trims, low long term fuel trims, rpm, TPS, coolant temp, ISC counts, ISC error, idle switch (make sure your file is setup to log the correct bit) and also make sure your AC is OFF.
Sure I can post one. Do you want a cruise, idle and a pull, or just the idle for now?
Just idle for now. Make sure it's warm idle.
Will do gimme a few to finish eating and ill run out there quick
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Ok here is the log. I clicked on 2byte load but i didn't see where it showed? Same with ISC error. Anyways here it is.
Maft is just a gen one Maft set for stock injectors yet. Maf is a LS1 Maf. 3.75" if im not mistaken. It is gutted.
Let me know if you need anything else or if i did something wrong with the log. Thanks for taking a look at it.
Haven't looked at the log yet but this is your first issue. The screens are important as you can only get an accurate air count if the air is straight. I found this issue time and time again when doing back to back comparisons with and without screened MAFs.Quote:
Originally Posted by hellssephiroth
You should replace the MAF with one that has screens before we continue.
Blah ill have to order one. Ill see what i can do. Thats what the blow through came with so i figured whatever i would use it.... On to ebay.
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do you think this would work?
LSX 100mm MAF Mass AIR Flow Sensor LS1 LS2 LS6 LS3 | eBay
Then i dont have to worry about cracking it....
No that won't work.
I guess it was an ls6 one that i have... not that it matters probably. Its the bigger of the two. with the metal on one side and plastic on the other
This is the one i have currently GM GEN III LS1 AND Vortec Mass AIR Flow Sensor MAF 1997 2007 | eBay
That's the one you need. Only don't gut it this time. :p