Front Suspension poly bushings

Well at 208k my cars front bushings are getting pretty worn out and I've decided to replace them all with poly. I am still in the process of testing out my findings and will update this thread as needed. Assuming you have dropped the front k member and control arms, that is where I will start explaining how to go about doing this.

The poly bushings that I sourced from Energy Suspension are:
Sub-frame bushings: 5.4105
Sway Bar Bushing: 9.5159
Control Arm Front location: 9.9482

The Control arm rear Location is sourced from GZP and is located here: Front Control Arm Bushing (rear location) for 3000GT and Stealth until end Sept. 93 | Ground Zero Performance

I also replaced my ball joints with Moog Part number K9855

Now The 4 bushings on the sub-frame can be simply hammered out with large punch shaped object and you should end up with something like this but probably Dirtier:
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...psd4fa150b.jpg

Now just grease up your bushings and slide them into their respected places. The ones closer to the front of the car are smaller than the rearward ones.

The sway bar bushings need to be Bent slightly to fit up against the sub-frame. I borrowed these images from Paul AKA Green-Lantern to show the bend needed.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/DSCF9046.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/DSCF9047.jpg

You should end up with something like this:
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...psc93c9481.jpg

Now for the Front Control arm bushings, To get them out I sprayed some pb blaster around them on the edges then hit them with a large ball peen hammer to knock them out. It only took a few good blows to knock them out.

Next, the modifications for the front bushing location. As seen in the following photo a tiny bit of the metal sleeve needs to be ground down or cut off and all but about 3/16" of the outer lip of each of the bushing pieces.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps8906c5c6.jpg

My sleeves ended up needing to be about 2.1" in length but I would cut them to the length of the spaces in your K-member so they fit properly. The bushings can be pressed in by hand, make sure to grease them amply and then the sleeves can be pressed in with a c-clamp. The final product:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps42f0447c.jpg

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps465c1ae9.jpg

The bushing sleeve ID is ~.5050 and our bolts are about .469~.470 which to me is too loose. I went to Fasenal and ordered some bolts that are ~.50 so they should fit much better. The K-Member holes are (from front to rear) .4780, .4840, and .5010. The front 2 holes will need to be drilled out but then the bolt should fit quite nicely. I will update this when the bolts come in. I will do the rear location in the next post.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps7d36ecb7.jpg

Ok so the bolts came in from Fasenal today (8/19/13) and I am very happy with how the play in the arm has been tightened up. It is much more solid feeling in my opinion and was worth getting the bolts vs using the stock ones. Drilling out the frame took me about 2 seconds for the bolts to fit through the 2 front holes.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps94290d49.jpg

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps9b113400.jpg

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps0bf59a74.jpg

I forgot to take a pic with the washer and nut installed but you get the idea.

To prepare the control arm rear location I pressed out the smaller bushings with a C-clamp and a 32mm socket. Then I cut the metal sleeve with a sawzall and punched them out with a punch. Depending on how rusty your brackets are some PB blaster will help get things moving when trying to hammer out the sleeves. Onto the larger bushing which is a bit more tricky. I sharpened a flat-head screw driver on my grinder and drove it around the edge of the bushing with a hammer. Once most of the edge has been punctured I stuck the bushing in a vice and hammered the the rubber/metal center out with my trusty ball peen. There are 2 sleeves that need to be cut out of this bushing unlike the smaller bushings, the thin inner one acts as a cage and the outer one is a support/shell that was used just for ease of pressing. As seen in the following photo

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps6925c2bc.jpg

The rear bushing brackets should look like this when the old rubber bushings are removed:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...psc59ad40b.jpg

Ok got my new poly bushings installed. It took me a while with some sleeves and a vice, but it got the job done!
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps916c0566.jpg

You know you digg the awesome pajamas haha.
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps9b37c9b6.jpg

I got them all mounted up, but I think there is a problem with the whiteline bushings as I could not get the 3 mounting holes for the bracket to line up. The large bolt that goes through the small poly bushing had no problem mounting, but i had to file out the other 3 holes about 3-4 mm. It seems to me like the front washer on the poly mount that is required moved the mounts too far back. Once everything was bolted up i am quite happy with how tight the suspension feels with me just moving it up and down like it is on the car. As for tightening the nut on the rear mount, it is recommended that you leave it snug then tighten it up when your car is at normal ride height.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...psfb507b47.jpg

I also have a tidbit of advice for those who are going to swap out the steering rack. When re-installing the rack; trying to line up the splines on the rack and intermediate steering shaft is a nightmare. So to get around fighting with the rack under the car, I
just disconnected the intermediate steering shaft from the column, attached it to the rack first (leave the rack mounts loose), then reattach the ISS to the column. To disconnect the ISS from the column there are 2 circular shaped holes that you line the bolt up with and use a ratcheting wrench to remove the bolt (12mm) This image should help give you an idea what im talking about.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...psbf0b2e69.jpg

If your steering wheel is off center after raising the rack there is an easy way to re-center the steering wheel. You must raise the front tires so there is little resistance while turning and turn from lock to lock. Measure the turns and then position the wheel where you think is center(the wheel may appear off turned but that's what we are going to fix). Remove the airbag off the steering wheel (4 10mm bolts) Then remove the 17mm nut holding the wheel from the steering shaft. Pull the steering wheel off (takes a good tug) and move the clock spring to the "neutral" position (there is a arrow and lettering to tell you it is in the neutral position). Re-position the steering wheel so the wheel looks like it is going straight ahead and put the lock washer and nut back on snug. Now check if there is an even amount of turns from center to lock both ways. If there is then good, your steering wheel is centered to the rack and you can tighten up your 17mm nut and re-install the airbag! If not then repeat until the rack and wheel are centered.


Conclusion
Well I just got the car aligned today and I'm pretty impressed with how everything feels, turns feel much more fluid and more controlled. I have heard no squeaking from the poly bushings, and the steering is much less affected by ruts in the roads. The poly bushings do make the ride a little bit harsher over bumps but on smooth roads it is hardly noticeable. If anyone has any questions post them here or PM me.

Great work Blake! Thank you for the info.

Very nice. I might have to put together a kit for this. :)

Saw this on facebook last night, been keeping my eyes peeled here for you to post this thread :bigthumb:

Awesome
Thanks for posting this :)

I'm sure the rest of the BRG'ers appreciate it also

I am considering contacting Energy Suspension with a solid model / technical sheets of a correct fitting part so no modification will be needed. As of tonight I have finished the bushing part and need to make the sleeve, then i can make technical drawings and send them to ES. Here is my progress so far:
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps1aa36e46.png

Cool, that would be awesome if they would do it.

Sent out an email with pics / technical drawings today. Hopefully they get back to me by tomorrow or Tuesday.

Just an FYI, 2nd gen cars and up use a different style rear lower control arm bushing. :)

Great work!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DocWalt

Just an FYI, 2nd gen cars and up use a different style rear lower control arm bushing. :)

Great work!

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Yes they are, I've been looking for these damn things for a long time and thought I'd found them but they didn't list them as 3s bushing. Anyway after a thread on BAWC and some looking into it Hans said he would order 3 sets since it's cheaper for him. Turns out after he bought them they did confirm that they fit a 3s. I haven't installed mine yet but they do look the same. I haven't touched my car since it started making the trans noise. I'm pissed at it. Anyway if anybody wants a set contact Hans, he saved me a good bit going through him.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...psc07c12c3.jpg

Ah yes, i knew there was something I forgot to mention in the write up. =/

I spoke with GZP today because my poly bushing order has been backordered for a month. I guess the company that makes Whiteline bushings is in North Korea and they have been falling behind. He's going to be swapping front control arm bushings over for superpro for now. But awesome work. You might as well keep going with this and make diff/rear subframe bushings as well. Do all the drawings up and have ES release a full kit:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fastfalcon94

I spoke with GZP today because my poly bushing order has been backordered for a month. I guess the company that makes Whiteline bushings is in North Korea and they have been falling behind. He's going to be swapping front control arm bushings over for superpro for now. But awesome work. You might as well keep going with this and make diff/rear subframe bushings as well. Do all the drawings up and have ES release a full kit:)

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I just did my rear diff bushings with solid aluminium bushings and my rear subframe bushings are filled solid with window weld poly so unless someone can get me dimensions on the rear bushings (with a dial caliper) I wouldn't make those. Now some bushings for the rear lower control arms I would be interested in doing if someone sent me a set i could work with.

I made my own rear subframe and poly bushings as well. I didn't use any solid fill, I just bought oversized poly and carved it down. I don't need them myself anymore either, but I think it would be a nice product for other members. I bought 1 brand new stock bushing for each of the rear before I made mine so I could have an idea on what size poly to order. I could measure those if you wanted. That's 1 diff bushing, one rear subframe rear bushing, and 1 front subframe front bushing. I have a digital caliper too, just need to get a new battery for it.

Alright yea, that would be awesome. Could you just give me a rough sketch with dimensions of the bushings + sleeve inside diameters? I could get some drawings made up of those pretty easy as they will never see movement like the front ones do.

Here is a video I made that kind of shows you how I designed mine. But yeah I'll give you some dimensions this week.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psae2b5cad.jpg

Bolts came in, updated first post. Hans says the rear location bushings will ship to me Wednesday =/. I cant wait to get this on my car and finally have sold feeling front end!

The large bushing is by far the most expensive one to make, at least to make it right, I bought mine from superpro a long time ago and paid over $130 for the pair. I has to be a sleeved bushing where the center tube is actually mounted to the poly, the poly actually flexes when the suspension moves rather than slipping on the control arm.

I noticed in the manual your not supposed to tighten the rear arm bolt until the car is sitting on the ground, makes sense so the load on the poly is centered. Just FYI for longevity of the part.

Also, be careful, the brackets may look the same but one is for right and one is for left, and it does matter which way you install the bushing too.

Im just going by the manual that says this is/was how you mount the bracket / bushing :
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps91e89bb1.png

No word from ES yet, bushings have shipped from GZP!

Bushings from GZP came in yesterday, just need to take them to a shop and have them pressed in. Ill upload pics of them later today after work. Im starting to take apart my front suspension today. yesterday i sent my TC off to jacks transmissions to be rebuilt and boy it needed it bad!

We now stock the newer style rear bushing made by Super Pro. Once our website gets fixed, I will add them to the site. We seem to be able to get stocking orders from Super Pro in only 4 days now. So supply should not dry up like it has before.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hans@GZP

We now stock the newer style rear bushing made by Super Pro. Once our website gets fixed, I will add them to the site. We seem to be able to get stocking orders from Super Pro in only 4 days now. So supply should not dry up like it has before.

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The rear part of the front control arm? Post pics when you get them please.

The same bushing you got from my made by Whiteline.... but made by Super Pro.

I was just wondering if the quality was any different. The whiteline's look great.

Here ya go Paul.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...88345942_o.jpg

Front k member dropped today

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...psa8d53d0e.jpg

Got a little surprise to take care of while im under the car:
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps9370f67c.jpg

yikes

Danger To Manifold!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hans@GZP

Here ya go Paul.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...88345942_o.jpg

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Well they look nice. That's great you can get them pretty quick now.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bloodlust182

Got a little surprise to take care of while im under the car:
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps9370f67c.jpg

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Looks like an alien spit acid on the bottom of your car. lol

I called Hans today. He switched my order over to superpro and said they would finally ship out today. My car has been waiting for these bushings for well over a month now. Sucks I haven't been able to drive it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fastfalcon94

I called Hans today. He switched my order over to superpro and said they would finally ship out today. My car has been waiting for these bushings for well over a month now. Sucks I haven't been able to drive it.

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Yeah, thats why i went ahead and did research for the front bushing, but the rear one is pretty much only available from super pro or whiteline. I need to get a Ball joint press to do mine then finish pressing my bushings in (ive been using sleeves and a vice LOL). Ill take some pics of the bushings and hopefully have this project wrapped up by Friday or Saturday. Afterwards i will go back and finish the second part of the how to portion.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bloodlust182

I need to get a Ball joint press to do mine then finish pressing my bushings in (ive been using sleeves and a vice LOL).

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Autozone will loan that to you free when you return within like 60 days

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jimvr4

Autozone will loan that to you free when you return within like 60 days

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Yea, ive just got to make sure they have it. Most of the time ive got to run to Oreilley auto because Autozone's is rented out )=. To be honest it is on my list of tools to buy lol. Ive bought so many "specialty" tools its crazy. Picked up a 3 jaw puller, pickle fork, and fuel line quick disconnect tools in the last 2 months. Trashed my HF bearing splitter a few weeks ago too )=.

well two steps forward and one step back, I broke my intermediate steering shaft u joint because I got pissed at the steering rack. Going to grab a spare from a friend tomorrow. Will post pics of todays progress later when I'm less pissed.

second post updated!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bloodlust182

I also have a tidbit of advice for those who are going to swap out the steering rack. When re-installing the rack trying to line up the splines on the rack and intermediate steering shaft is a nightmare. So to get around fighting with the rack under the car, I
just disconnected the intermediate steering shaft from the column, attached it to the rack first (leave the rack mounts loose), then reattach the ISS to the column. To disconnect the ISS from the column there are 2 circular shaped holes that you line the bolt up with and use a ratcheting wrench to remove the bolt (12mm) This image should help give you an idea what im talking about.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...psbf0b2e69.jpg

Will update further when completed with getting it all back together.

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Wish I had this tip before doing my rack.

The steering rack is a pain. I had to disconnect mine when I ran oem non-abs lines with my motor still in the car.Inbolted all 6 bolts that hold the steering column underneath the dash then fought with the hole thing by myself getting it lined up. Would have been easier if I had a friend helping.

My GZP order finally came in yesterday afternoon with the superpros. I wasted no time putting it all in:) Also did new balljoints and tie rod ends. However I won't be trying it out until my new rims come in. My current r6 rims don't clear my big brake kit.

Pic. Used my friends press to do the balljoint, and used a balljoint tool to remove the front bushing. My stock rear bushings were still solid but when I pulled off the rubber there was maybe 1/8th of an inch of rubber caked onto the control arm pin. I can't imagine that would pivot too well. I cleaned it up with a razorblade.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps15e54778.jpg

Yea, the way i did the rack this time felt much easier than doing it from under the car or trying the whole column. This is my second time swapping out a rack, the first time I fought with the rack for 5 or 6 hours to get it on from under the car. This time it took me about an hour actually getting everything installed. I had a bad drivers side axle and outer tie rod end so those will be here on Wednesday along with my rebuilt t case from Jacks. I wont be able to actually drive my car until Thursday or later :(.

first/second post updated!