really feel like pushing my car off a cliff....

only drove like 40 miles since i bought it in may. sent the car to pampena for a clutch change. car ran fine after getting it back. but now the car wont stay idling it always stalls.

my cars been sitting for a month. just about last month i noticed at normal idle about 700 rpm's, it felt like the car was shaking when i was in the driver seat and wanted to stall. it was strange to see the idle to be at 700 rpm's because normally my car would idle right at 1000 rpm's. and at 1000 rpm's the car drove perfectly fine.

i was told by stealthee to clean the iac. so i followed stealth316's procedures. tested and cleaned it. the resistance came out perfectly fine but i was told to just get a new one anyways. so i bought a new one and car still stalls.

so the iac wasnt the problem. i went ahead to check the ecu. its perfectly fine too.

then i tried pressure testing. used a 12v tire compressor. people have told me i need a better compressor but my friend have used it on his wrx numerous times and it works just fine on his car. i plugged the 2 hoses thats attached to the front and rear turbo intake pipes. heard nothing, so i guess there are no boost leaks.

what else could be the problem?

btw my starter makes a grinding noise on start up but i dont think the starter would affect idling and stalling issues. also on the other forum i was told to adjust the idle. the screw wasnt touched since i got the car... it drove fine. and other members told me its not necessary to adjust the screw after cleaning the iac. so i ruled that out. even if the screw was never touched i should still try to adjust it?

700 RPM warm idle is 100% normal. Thats where its supposed to be. Thats not your issue.

yea but it was only at 700 that one time(other times my car idles at 1000) after i cold started it up and let it warm for minutes. when it dropped to 700 the car shaked. and i reversed it out of the driveway and the idle raised up. felt normal but dropped slightly to 800 and started to shake a little bit again and wanted to stall. so i quickly put it in first and drove away. now normally my car wouldnt drop the idle down to 700 or 800. it usually idled at 1000.

after that happend i tried driving it. i let it warm up and after it warmed up it stalled(the cars still drivable at this point). so then i was told to clean the iac. the day after i cleaned the iac, i tested resistance before putting it back on. resistance came out perfect. put the iac back on then pulled the car out of my garage wanting to go to a friends house. i let it sit and warm after pulling out. the car stalled after the rpm's dropped. i started it up and it idled for a few seconds then stalled again. and the stalling would get worse. when i try to reverse it out of the parking spot it would stall.

now when i start it up it would just stall right away it wont hold idle for even a second. i tried to give it some throttle but no response.

Could it be your maf/maf sensor? Any check engine lights?

My car idles at 700 warm and its perfectly fine. It always has idled there. Thats normal warm idle.

EDIT: Poor or no throttle response eh? Have you checked the TPS to see if its in spec and or good?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stealthee

My car idles at 700 warm and its perfectly fine. It always has idled there. Thats normal warm idle.

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Same with mine.

OP: Have you tried datalogging your idle?

what are the datalogging options for a 94? with the hybrid ecu's? no cel's, i turn the ignition to acc and left it on acc for a while. the cel came on normally as it would on every start. and it goes away.

edit: im going to tighten the biss screw on the throttle body when the cars not on, see if anything happens. can i do that? for both the iacs. the first one/original one i cleaned, when i first started it up the idle was lumpy and veryyy LOW(was around 600rpm's on a cold start)... BUT the car stayed on and i was able to pull it out of the garage. after it went out of the garage i shut it off and started it again. the idle went up to 1100 rpm's and held(which is normal idle on cold start ups). at that time it was still cold so i thought ok the iac is functioning normally because the idle when cold was not low anymore. and as it warmed up the car stalled.

the next day i started it up again the car wont hold idle and stalls(it raises to 1200 then drops and dies). and after i got the BRAND new iac on. the idle acted the same when first started it up. lumpy like it was trying to find the right idle. and it stalled. then i tried again, the idle went up to 1200 rpm's which was normal but it held for 2 seconds and stalled. right now when it starts up it goes up to i would say 800 rpm's and stalls right away(in less than half a second). it wont even go up to 1200 anymore.

found 2 open ports. can someone tell me where theyre supposed to go to? i doubt this is my problem though i have never messed with that i ran fine with the ports open like that.
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...P1010524-3.jpg
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...P1010525-2.jpg
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...P1010526-2.jpg

That would be your boost solenoid, its pretty essential to running!

were any of those supposed to go to the ypipe? i have a blitz electronic boost controller though... not sure if those ports should be hooked up or not

Ah in that case no they wouldn't be hooked to anything. Judging from all your vacuum lines I thought you were stock.

a bad tps would trigger a check engine light wouldnt it??

Fuel filter may make it idle bad...Plugs...wires....fuel pump (if it doesnt run good on throttle). Not sure about these but I would change the filter, plugs, and wires anyways. And you said youve driven 40 miles since May? Bad gas a possibility?

Not necessarily. If its out of spec the ECU may not know it.

Hey stealthee....can you download your knowledge to an external HD for me?

Did the tire pump you used for the boost leak test actually create any pressure? It's not of much use if it didn't. You should set your warm idle. If your car stalls when warm, the base idle may be set way too low and you could try backing out the BISS to help this. There is also the FIAV in the throttle body that raises idle when the coolant is cold. The FIAV can be damaged by cleaning and that would probably cause some odd behavior. You should probably unplug your maf and see if it runs any differently.

His warm idle is fine. He needs to find the real cause of the issue.

Not necessarily, he said it only idled at 700 a month ago and hasn't idled right since. It could have been set to idle at 700 with a large vaccum leak. If he has fixed or lessened the leak since then, the idle could be set too low. I agree that this is probably not the real issue, but if he suspects this to be an idle issue it would be silly to not attempt the idle adjustment procedure first (including setting the tps) to at least get an idea of where you're at.