Is anyone running one of these? what is the fitment like? any noticeable gains?
This is the one I'm talking about
OBX Turbo Downpipe 91 99 3000GT VR4 1991 1997 Stealth R T Twin Turbo | eBay
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDgwWDY0MA...gw(g~~60_3.JPG
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Is anyone running one of these? what is the fitment like? any noticeable gains?
This is the one I'm talking about
OBX Turbo Downpipe 91 99 3000GT VR4 1991 1997 Stealth R T Twin Turbo | eBay
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDgwWDY0MA...gw(g~~60_3.JPG
3SX TT Downpipes STAINLESS STEEL 3000GT Stealth*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts
I have not personally used the OBX downpipe for a 3000GT, but I would try to get one of the downpipes which are similar to the one in the 3SX link above. The OBX is almost similar to the stock down-pipe in that the rear dumps at more or less a 90* angle. With that said I've used header back OBX exhausts on a Corvette & Camaro and the quality seems to be good in as far as the stainless steel and durability. So material seems to be good, but I the OBX down-pipe design for our cars could use some improvement.
that is the same design as the tanabe one.
for tdo4 the stillen "style" with a rear pre cat delete flows the best
or one of these
OBX Turbo Down Pipe 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 Mitsubishi 3000gt VR4 Stealth | eBay
jus have to "clock"the rear turbo flange and notch out the wholes for 2nd gens
i even welded in a flex section
The 3sx one is no good for me as I need the front elbow. Also looked at the one piece obx one but ruled it out for 2 reasons. No flex joint and being one piece it will cost more to ship to Australia. If this one is the same design as the tanabe then I might go for it. I'll talk to a local guy first and see if he can make one cheaper then decide. Is the elbow really that much of a restriction?
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The one piece fit excellent on my car. The tanabe copy fit OK but not great, I think I had to add a gasket to the rear to get it to seal good. I didn't care for that 3sx version because of the flanges, I had a real hard time getting it to seal on a friends car.
It isn't china cheap, but this is what I'm after next:
IPS 3000GT / Stealth "Shorty" 3" 304 Stainless Downpipe
Looks great but at that price I could get one made locally for less.
Also does the one piece OBX down pipe have an O2 bung on it once past the merge? My car is JDM so only on O2 when stock which I have populate with an NGK AFX wideband so I need a port some point down stream from the merge.
Mine just had the one shown in this pic. I had to get a bung welded in a little further down for the wideband.
http://www.racingpartdepot.com/media...d85fe8af_m.JPG
Actually it looks like there's one at the top near the rear turbo also. I'd have to look at mine to confirm it. I do know I welded a bung for the wideband after the two pipes came together.
Personally I would stay away from this one. I'm not sure what kind of car it's going on (3000gt vs GTO), but I will tell you this: on my 1991 GTO TT, it didn't come anywhere NEAR bolting on. I ended up spending almost 16 hours on the damn thing before I got it on. I ended up having to cut out approximately 3", source 2.75" tubing (which nobody in my area could properly bend), prep, tack and weld in 3.5" of mild steel pipe (I couldn't find any 2.75" stainless pipe anywhere in Alberta). I wouldn't wish this on anyone else. If it were me again, I'd spend the extra on a brand name (stillen, or 3sx, or anything but this one) not to mention the O2 bungs are in useless positions (clocked at 4 o clock) so any O2 sensor you put in will collect condensate and die prematurely, AND the second O2 (closer to the front) I ended up having to extend the harness a full 2 feet. This is all on a JDM car though. I have heard of a few guys this did actually bolt onto, in USDM cars. Personally it's not worth the chance. I have pictures if you want to see them.
Attachment 5827. This is how it lined up, plus it was a half inch to short to reach the test pipe. Which I also had to shorten.