Setting Transmission Bearing Preload?

There seems to be a lot of guys currently rebuilding their transmissions, since I'm one of those guys too, I thought I'd just make a post and ask about this.

What's everyone using to check and set bearing preload? I've read a thousand threads on others rebuilds, advice/how-to's and there's a lot of variance.

FSM says use solder, and just about everyone else says they didn't get consistent measurements...just wondering on tips and tricks for this, as I'm waitin for the rest of my parts to be delivered from SCE.

From what I've read, to be on the safe side, I'm gonna end up using solder, and taking my measurements about 3 times, for each shaft, one at a time. If you guys are using solder, what type/kind?

Also, where can shims be located? I have yet to see anywhere to buy shims.

I used the solder method when setting my preload after replacing my bearings. Wasn't really too much to it I guess, I just followed the manual. I don't recall the actual thickness of solder, it was around 2mm in thickness. I had a spare tranny so any shims that I needed I was able to use between the two. Not really much help I guess, it was a while ago when I did it but I don't recall anything else noteworthy.

Good luck!

Thanks Toni! Much appreciated. Did you use rosen core solder, or rosen free? I don't think the manual specifies?

Rosin cored, I am guessing that it's a bit softer than solid solder. Manual doesn't specifiy, They just need something that will crush. An easy way to tell what size solder to use is to go off the shim thickness that was there to start. The new shims shouldn't be much different, in fact, may even be the same.

That's what I was thinkin. Good call on determining solder size.

Yes, it generally seems if you do not replace one of the shafts or transmission case sections the pre-loads end up the same. Bearing tolerances are generally very good.

Great thread! I'm in the process of rebuilding mine too. So where can we get new shims? I actually have two transmissions, so I might be able to make one good one from the two. The transmission that was in the car was grinding into third. The other was bought as a "good" transmission, but really the condition is unknown to me as it was never in the car.


Here's the mystery box. Looks pretty darn good so far. Just need to find a press (and proper technique) so I can take it apart further to diagnose the condition.

http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/o...515_210857.jpg

What tools did it take to break it down to that point? Can you remove the gear assemblies from the end case at this point without a press or puller?

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Originally Posted by Jimvr4

What tools did it take to break it down to that point? Can you remove the gear assemblies from the end case at this point without a press or puller?

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Simple hand tools and a soft wooden dowel and rubber mallet. I already have the shafts removed but I didn't have a picture of that stage. Just need to remove the seal on the back, which gives you access to an allen bolt that holds it all in. After that, simply beat it out with a rubber mallet and socket. I don't have a press....yet ;) Be careful when splitting the case. There are flanges built into the case that I used to open it (wooden dowel and soft hammer). Don't pry it open with a screw driver for instance.

I sent mine to Ray when I had my billet endcase put on. But I did look into it at the time. This is the manual, just search for "solder". I think I've seen the oem shims for sale on 3sx as well. I was going to try to do mine myself because freight shipping to Pampena would be expensive (well over $200 each way UPS or Fedex). Fortunately my gf's dad was able to ship it through his work and it costs me about $80 each way, then $250 for the service (normally $300 but saved $50 via group buy of endcase). I figured a tranny isn't something I should mess with. But I probably would have tried it if I didn't get a deal on shipping. I have heard of other companies like Jacks Transmissions making the gears a little tighter as well for "race" transmissions. The downside is while the gears stay tight, they don't get the kind of fluid flowing between them. I have no idea what preload Ray used. It seems to work well though.

http://www.3sx.com/faq/manuals/Servi...Searchable.pdf

Awesome to have people collaborating on this. I'll be getting myself a 20 ton press next pay check I hope...Just a few more tools and things to get mine complete. I made a post in the facebook group this morning and tagged Hans, Chris and Ray, but got no response about shims and what not.

I came across a DSM post about preload settings, and indeed, they do go tighter for race transmissions. Your drawbacks are more wear though. I'm curious as to what others have used for their settings, such as Ray and the rest of the veterans...Brett Brinkman use to be the guru on this stuff, is that guy still around? When I tried sourcing my parts, I ended up at SCE as all the old places were coming up empty handed on at least one item and I wanted to do a one stop shop.

J.Fast posted on the FB group earlier this morning, I got a response from him that he had shims, that was it though. I know he's a busy guy. Hopefully when I get mine spec'd out, if I'm in need of shims, he'll be able to help me out, as he's the only one that I've gotten a response that was positive.

I also emailed Philip at SCE, no response yet though.

From what I've gathered, you mic one shaft, get it dialed into spec, then move on to the next one? If that's the case, I won't know what shims will be needed all at once? In which case, is gonna make it more of a pain to hunt for the needed shims. I plan on going towards the tighter side of specs.

If all goes well and according to plan, maybe by summers end, I'll be able to get to the other trans and take lots of pics and share with everyone.