Car runs after a year of working on it, first time with Chromed ECU

Finally screwed up enough courage to start playing with EcuFlash and EvoScan on my car. Surprisingly, everything in both programs seems to be working on the first try. Uploaded a tweaked version of the default Chrome V2 ROM file. Only things done so far are to put in the numbers for the Evo MAF and larger injectors. Car starts and idles (kinda). Looking at EvoScan, my NB02's are cycling. One sits close to 0, the other sits at 0.9+. Time to let it idle long enough to get the low fuel trims to show up in Evoscan, I guess. Have to go through GregE's procedure for setting the idle.

Win!!

congrats

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Originally Posted by Stealth_RT

Looking at EvoScan, my NB02's are cycling. One sits close to 0, the other sits at 0.9+.

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Wait, i just re-read that... If they don't move, they aren't cycling. If they sit opposite locked like that, I'd suspect O2 sensor pins are backwards on your adapter harness.

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Originally Posted by Greg E

Wait, i just re-read that... If they don't move, they aren't cycling. If they sit opposite locked like that, I'd suspect O2 sensor pins are backwards on your adapter harness.

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I wondered about that also but assumed that was in open loop or something (during a pull).

You are probably right though, wasn't there a problem with some harnesses having them swapped?

I'll have to look into that and check the sensor wiring. They change values when I rev the engine though.

here's Another one!

Not the full Chrome™ you americans have available though (euro ecu here). Greg fixed a file for me still to change the important settings and it works. (also thanks to blackstealth for disabling the euro immobilizer)

anyways, I did my first long drive with flashed ecu today. Also just changed the evo maf settings and injectors. Ran fine. Idles nice.

died once while idling at traffic lights, got really scared I was going to get stranded but just cranked it again and it ran fine the rest of the day. Think that had to do with my battery being shit though and nothing with the tune(or lack of).

I havn't hooked up my innovate o2 yet though which I really should I know(don't burn me :) )

maybe I should look in to fine tuning the idle thingy too. Not that I think it needs cause it seems to idle fine to me. Need to hook up the o2 sensor to know for sure though.

I don't have my WB02 wired into the ECU yet either. The exhaust has a large leak in it currently. When I put on the aftermarket front and rear headers, the angles and mountings changed some, and the front precat housing is about an inch short of mating up to the downpipe. I have a smaller section of pipe stuffed inside to bridge the gap, but its nowhere near airtight, and the WB02 is downstream from that. Shoot, maybe that's why the NB02's aren't looking right. The rear is probably accurate, but the front is probably seeing air contamination. And checking my logs, it is the front O2 that's sitting at 0.039 most of the time. Ah well, after an oil and filter change, I'm just going to have to see if it'll drive around the block without dying too much. Then I need to drive it about 30 min. away to a friends house where we can fab the new front precat eliminator housing and seal up the exhaust.

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Originally Posted by Stealth_RT

I don't have my WB02 wired into the ECU yet either. The exhaust has a large leak in it currently. When I put on the aftermarket front and rear headers, the angles and mountings changed some, and the front precat housing is about an inch short of mating up to the downpipe. I have a smaller section of pipe stuffed inside to bridge the gap, but its nowhere near airtight, and the WB02 is downstream from that. Shoot, maybe that's why the NB02's aren't looking right. The rear is probably accurate, but the front is probably seeing air contamination. And checking my logs, it is the front O2 that's sitting at 0.039 most of the time. Ah well, after an oil and filter change, I'm just going to have to see if it'll drive around the block without dying too much. Then I need to drive it about 30 min. away to a friends house where we can fab the new front precat eliminator housing and seal up the exhaust.

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Ah yep. That'll cause that issue too.

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Originally Posted by Ange

here's Another one!

Not the full Chrome™ you americans have available though (euro ecu here). Greg fixed a file for me still to change the important settings and it works. (also thanks to blackstealth for disabling the euro immobilizer)

anyways, I did my first long drive with flashed ecu today. Also just changed the evo maf settings and injectors. Ran fine. Idles nice.

died once while idling at traffic lights, got really scared I was going to get stranded but just cranked it again and it ran fine the rest of the day. Think that had to do with my battery being shit though and nothing with the tune(or lack of).

I havn't hooked up my innovate o2 yet though which I really should I know(don't burn me :) )

maybe I should look in to fine tuning the idle thingy too. Not that I think it needs cause it seems to idle fine to me. Need to hook up the o2 sensor to know for sure though.

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What else had to be done to disable the immobilizer besides switching off the periphery?

Is there a periphery bit to turn off the ABS dummy light? My ABS is disabled.

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Originally Posted by Greg E

What else had to be done to disable the immobilizer besides switching off the periphery?

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IDK really I just sent the file to blackstealth and he fixed it for me. He said changes to the code needs to be made to disable it fully so I guess he did that. So better off asking him.

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Originally Posted by Stealth_RT

Is there a periphery bit to turn off the ABS dummy light? My ABS is disabled.

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Abs has its own completely separate ECU.

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Originally Posted by Greg E

Abs has its own completely separate ECU.

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This, Jeff reset mine at NG but if it's disabled then I'd just pull the bulb.

Drove the car around the block today. New clutch is loud upon engagement, but smooth. But it's a new tilton twin disc/htob setup. Grabs when the pedal is just off the floor :) Engine idle is rough, and it bogs some on the low end, but once it cleans out it pulls nicely. Can't do anything more until the exhaust is fixed and I can log fuel trims, etc. Only stalled on me once at a stop sign.

Finished wiring in three new gauges, oil temp, water temp, and oil pressure. Also wired in the fan control lines, MAP sensor lines, and WB02 into the ECU adapter harness. So easy with the proper pigtails and fan/map extension cables. Have to look up how to scale the AEM WB02 and a GM 3 bar MAP sensor in ecuflash.

Few Chrome questions:
-Evoscan reports my TPS at 13.33% at idle, but my idle switch is showing 0. Do I need to adjust my TPS physically until the idle switch shows 1?
-The check engine light came on and is staying on after the car stalled at idle. Can't seem to check or clear it with EVoscan 2.9. Is 2.9 still fubared, and how do we clear DTCs now?

Thanks

Ok, found the idle switch problem. Went back through the 'how to set idle the proper way' thread, and my evoscan didn't have the idle position switch line set up right. It was 'x bit 128' instead of the correct 'x bit 1' setting. Edited and changed that and now it reports the idle switch correctly. Didn't have to mess with anything on the car.

Also fixed a rather big vac leak. Some idiot *cough* ran a hose from the valve cover vents to the back of the T bubble. Other side of the valve covers is vented to atmo through a small filter. So, any air pulled through that small filter, through the valve covers, into the T bubble, is obviously after the MAF and unmetered.

Hoping to get the exhaust piece fabbed tomorrow and finally be able to log O2 reading and fuel trims.

Got the exhaust all fixed up and done. No more exhaust leaks! Still have serious idle/closed loop issues though. As in, it won't do closed loop operation worth a damn. Can't yet get NB02's to cycle and WB02, at idle and low cruise usually shows crazy lean condition. Driving it sucks right now, as it's running so lean in closed loop that the engine makes little power. As I keep pushing the pedal down, it reaches the point of kicking over into normal open loop operation and the car takes off and pulls great. Plans are now to first do a compression test on all cylinders and then check for large boost leaks, especially after the turbos. Doing the compression test more to makes sure the new bc cams I put in last summer aren't fucking me over some how. Doubt it, the way the car pulls at WOT, but worth checking. Checking for boost leaks for obvious reasons. The biggest downfall of running a MAF setup vs speed density. :( Also maybe there's a setting or settings in ecuflash that I'm missing, miss adjusting, or just haven't learned about yet. But it's too damn hot outside to work in my garage, so not sure when I'll get to checking all this stuff.

Speed density won't help you tune out whatever is causing your issue. Your MAF is reporting an airflow, and it's off. SD is just an airflow calculation where you guess what the airflow is and the ecu spits in some fuel.

In either case, you need to tune.

My guess is its something more complex than a tune.

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Originally Posted by Stealth_RT

Ok, found the idle switch problem. Went back through the 'how to set idle the proper way' thread, and my evoscan didn't have the idle position switch line set up right. It was 'x bit 128' instead of the correct 'x bit 1' setting. Edited and changed that and now it reports the idle switch correctly. Didn't have to mess with anything on the car.

Also fixed a rather big vac leak. Some idiot *cough* ran a hose from the valve cover vents to the back of the T bubble. Other side of the valve covers is vented to atmo through a small filter. So, any air pulled through that small filter, through the valve covers, into the T bubble, is obviously after the MAF and unmetered.

Hoping to get the exhaust piece fabbed tomorrow and finally be able to log O2 reading and fuel trims.

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Correct vac routing for the valve covers (to my knowledge) should be from the passenger side of the front valve cover (near the coil pack) the hose should snake down to the lower intake plenum, there is a small barb down there for it. 11/32 hose from Autozone or similar will work. The rear valve cover on the passenger side should run to the back of the bubble of the MAF. The driver side of the valve covers should just have a hose that connects them.

Well finally got back to working on the car. Checked compression, checked for big vac leaks, etc. Finally checked the 02 wiring at the ECU, and sure enough, front and rear wires were backwards. Fired up the car and it idles consistently now, no stalling just at idle. Still a bit lean, but the trims are all out of whack from before. Revving it up and it goes pretty rich and when the rpms come down, it goes so low it stalls occasionally or comes real close to, so more tuning is in order. Except now, just revving it up and down, the circuit breaker I have at the battery in the trunk is tripping out. Never did that before, so no idea what's going on NOW. Both fuel pump relays (stock and hotwire) in the engine bay are pretty hot. Using an Aeromotive Stealth pump. Wonder if the revving and falling of the rpm to almost stalling is kicking the high/low fuel pump relays in and out too much?

Or maybe the alternator took a shit. Should the car quit running immediately if you disconnect the battery? (Stupid question, but I guess I never tried before so I don't know)

Ok, so more work done. Re-did the BOV to be recirculating instead of open. Richened the MAF VE table settings to get the idle richened up to around 14.7 AFR. Idles decently now, holds a fairly steady 14.5-15 AFR while slowly increasing revs up to 4k ish. Letting off quickly and the engine no longer wants to bog down and stall. Just smoothly drops to a normal idle. Let the car idle long enough for the front and rear low O2 trims to start changing. Oddly though, the front trim went to about -6, but the rear trim when to +6. Is that normal? Shouldn't they both go the same direction, + or -, so I can tune them closer to 0? How do I tune for one going + and the other going -?

I've often wondered why sometimes there's a huge varrience myself. Done a lot of speculating but never found the answer.

Injector balancing, maybe.

I'm just beginning to experiment with the closed loop operational settings and I believe a big part of why this happens is because of the feedback gain differences between the front and rear banks. The front's gain settings are significantly higher and I believe it lets the ecu overcorrect the front bank giving large trim differences. I have logged them spread a gap and then nearly come right in line with each other. If the trims haven't had some time to settle, I would give it some time but, anything more than 5% difference I would consider a mechanical problem though.

Jeff

Yeah, I have to start driving it around cruising to let the low and mid trims stabilize. Couple of minor mechanical drivetrain issues I have to take care of first.