video of clicking, alarm thing?

So, I bought this '93 Stealth R/T TT from Numure on 3si.
At his house in Ogden we actually put a jump-box on it and I heard the car start and run.
.
.
Which is why it's so strange, now that I got the car towed to me (fixing wheel), ever since I put a fresh battery in it, I have not gotten the car to crank over!
It does a ticking/flashing of lights thing, all I can assume is this is the factory alarm interfering?

flash - YouTube

It goes for that long as video, then stops for a few seconds, if key is still in ignition it will then start the flashing/ticking again.

What has me clueless now, I did the factory alarm disable by grounding out the light green wire in the corner of the larger of two ETACS plugs, but situation is still the same!
All I get is ticking/flashing, car won't crank over.

Is that a factory alarm thing messing with the car per that type of flashing/ticking?

-Taj

That's got to be alarm related. No add-on alarm anywhere?

Jeremy

That's from an aftermarket alarm. On the ignition harness there is a black/yellow wire. This wire will be cut and each end will be going to the aftermarket alarm box. Just disconnect the alarm from there and reconnect the black/yellow wires. Then enjoy starting your car.

Thanks Hans

It was a Clifford.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps16af019d.jpg

At a point half-way through the un-install, I reconnected the black w/ yellow stripe ignition wire, and I started the car up like normal! sweet
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps4d477052.jpg

Now that I'm completely done tearing out all that wiring, when I turn the key all the way to engage the starter I just get a click and power cuts off from stereo etc while I have the key turned all the way, crap.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps0043c2ac.jpg

I'll get back to it when I have more time for that, maybe something simple or maybe I'm still at oh crap.
I did good tracing all connections, making sure stock wires went back to stock connections if the alarm intercepted any other wires like that main ignition wire..

Any idea what this twisted pair of wires are, coming out of the harness behind the fuse box against the firewall? Black wire & yellow wire w/ red stripe.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps4e083e74.jpg
Those wires were tapped into the clifford alarm, I cut the alarm out and left them loose.


Turn the key all the way and there is a click, no crank over. Main ignition wire hooked back up. From that same area of ignition switch harness on steering column, there is a small yellow and small red wire which must have been capped off at the time of alarm install, nothing is attached to them. I figure not critical, because when I re-connected that main black/yellow ignition wire and clifford alarm was half-uninstalled, I tested and engine cranked over and started fine at that point.
I'd think the battery got drained too low to crank if I wasn't 99% sure that's not the case.

What should I test, at which wire that should be getting starter signal when I turn key all the way or which wire to see that its getting power like it should at ACC position?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TajMan

Any idea what this twisted pair of wires are, coming out of the harness behind the fuse box against the firewall? Black wire & yellow wire w/ red stripe.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps4e083e74.jpg
Those wires were tapped into the clifford alarm, I cut the alarm out and left them loose.


Turn the key all the way and there is a click, no crank over. Main ignition wire hooked back up. From that same area of ignition switch harness on steering column, there is a small yellow and small red wire which must have been capped off at the time of alarm install, nothing is attached to them. I figure not critical, because when I re-connected that main black/yellow ignition wire and clifford alarm was half-uninstalled, I tested and engine cranked over and started fine at that point.
I'd think the battery got drained too low to crank if I wasn't 99% sure that's not the case.

What should I test, at which wire that should be getting starter signal when I turn key all the way or which wire to see that its getting power like it should at ACC position?

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Those wires are most likely door lock wires, 99% sure, as the door lock relays are in your picture. You can just tape the ends off and tuck the wires out of the way if you do not want to remove them from the door lock wiring. They will not hurt anything to stay in the car.

As for the starting issue, it sounds like your battery is super low. Most likely from having the door open and the interior lights on while you unistalled the clifford alarm. Put a charger on the battery and then give it another shot.

What makes you sure the battery is not low?

I didn't think so because it wasn't the old battery I charged up, it was a fresh reman'd battery from interstate and I didn't have the door open or the lights on much at all after I installed [battery] or during un-install/batt wasn't hooked up.
I've got it on the charger now, we will see in the morning.

Battery charged full already I got it installed tonight.
Same deal, just a click no cranking.

What are these small red and yellow wires that are just capped? Coming from the same ignition switch harness next to that yellow/black ignition wire that has been reconnected.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...psfff6476e.jpg
I guess they are not red/yellow just spliced in and electrical taped, one to the black w/ white stripe wire on that ignition harness.


What wire can I check to see if is getting 12v+ when I turn the key all the way to start? Need to diagnose this click-no-start..

Engine bay, between MAF and battery lies a black/red stripe wire in its own connector. The wire runs down the starter power wire and goes to the solenoid on the starter. Check that for 12 volts when you turn the key to the start position. If less than 12 volts, try replacing the ignition switch. Replacing the switch will clean up that cluster fuck of wires you got there.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TajMan

Battery charged full already I got it installed tonight.
Same deal, just a click no cranking.

What are these small red and yellow wires that are just capped? Coming from the same ignition switch harness next to that yellow/black ignition wire that has been reconnected.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...psfff6476e.jpg
I guess they are not red/yellow just spliced in and electrical taped, one to the black w/ white stripe wire on that ignition harness.


What wire can I check to see if is getting 12v+ when I turn the key all the way to start? Need to diagnose this click-no-start..

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Your capped wires look like a constant 12V wire tap and an ignition wire tap for an alarm or other 12V device. If you did not cut and cap those wires it would mean that at some point the car had more stuff tapped into the ignition harness. Those wires are not affecting anything. Like the door lock wires, you can leave them be.

In addition to checking the voltage on your starter solenoid wire I would double check your battery terminals. If the car started just fine already but now after swapping batteries it does not, it is quite possible you have a poor connection at one of your terminals.

No, its not that it doesn't start after swapping batteries.
Its that it won't start after clifford alarm UN-install! Some connection has changed electrically, and THATS why it won't start currently...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TajMan

No, its not that it doesn't start after swapping batteries.
Its that it won't start after clifford alarm UN-install! Some connection has changed electrically, and THATS why it won't start currently...

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When you started the car mid alarm removal, was it with the old battery or this new one?

The alarm you removed only prevents a car from starting by interrupting the starter wire, which is the wire you reconnected. Aside from the red and yellow wires that were capped and the door lock wires, were there other wires that came off of the alarm's harness that trailed off into the car?

Only like 5+ sets trailing off into other places of the car, haha..
I did my best to trace everything everywhere..

New refreshed battery this whole time that's all I've used.

aaahhh still can't be sure, I'll have to test wires with a friend and volt meter later, just bummed

Ahh, okay you did not switch batteries during the whole ordeal.

In reviewing the installation guide for the Clifford RS3.5, it uses all of the standard DEI alarm connections. So the only vehicle disabling feature should have been the starter kill which you undid when you reconnected the starter wire.

Did you verify that the rest of the heavy gauge wires in the ingition harness were intact? Is it possible you blew a fuse?

Here is a link to the install manual:
http://www.directeddealers.com/manua...9564_07-05.pdf

Pages 58 and 59 are the quick reference guide for wires and wire colors.

Yes the rest of the heavy gauge wires in ignition harness are intact.
I will try to check some fuses..

I feel like something else happened during the uninstall unrelated to the clifford alarm, and now that's an issue. Car has an SAFC II installed now with the optional 3/S harness to splice between the factory ECU plugs, and I unplugged the connections once during all this, but I double checked that and all wires/connectors look good and are plugged back in.
Does the 3/S only have one clutch (neutral safety) switch? My '91 Talon has two clutch switches, and I just had to tap into one of them for an aftermarket install.
This '93 TT has a 2-wire connector that is loose up around the clutch pedal area, but I think its fine being loose and the 1 clutch safety switch connector is plugged in..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TajMan

Yes the rest of the heavy gauge wires in ignition harness are intact.
I will try to check some fuses..

I feel like something else happened during the uninstall unrelated to the clifford alarm, and now that's an issue. Car has an SAFC II installed now with the optional 3/S harness to splice between the factory ECU plugs, and I unplugged the connections once during all this, but I double checked that and all wires/connectors look good and are plugged back in.
Does the 3/S only have one clutch (neutral safety) switch? My '91 Talon has two clutch switches, and I just had to tap into one of them for an aftermarket install.
This '93 TT has a 2-wire connector that is loose up around the clutch pedal area, but I think its fine being loose and the 1 clutch safety switch connector is plugged in..

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These cars have two switches on the clutch but only one impacts your ability to start the car. However if that were the issue you would not even hear a click in the engine bay when you turned the key.

I think its a click in the interior when I turn the key,
I'll get help with a friend and volt meter tomorrow on it hopefully..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TajMan

I think its a click in the interior when I turn the key,
I'll get help with a friend and volt meter tomorrow on it hopefully..

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Is the click coming from the passenger side of the center console?

Also since the alarm you removed was an alarm/remote start model, it is possible that the original installer messed with the clutch switch wiring but with how our system operates the two wires would have to be shorted together now, which isn't very likely. But it is something to check.

If you look at the clutch pedal assembly there are two switches, one near the firewall and one on the opposite side of the assembly close to the dash panel. Very similar to a DSM. The switch close to the dash panel is the one that impacts starting, and as luck would have it the more accessible of the two. Normally to bypass the switch you only need to unplug it but a proper alarm install would have tapped into the wiring to create a temporary break in the circuit via a relay. I would verify that the wiring going to that switch is intact.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...psfff6476e.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hans@GZP

... try replacing the ignition switch. Replacing the switch will clean up that cluster fuck of wires you got there.

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I agree with Hans. A replacement only costs about $17 from amazon, and it won't have those dangling red and yellow wires. The contacts in the ignition switch corrode (20 years old) and after replacing it, my intermittent no start problem was permanently cured. And as bonus it cleaned up a previous car alarm install.

Sounds like a click/click/start issue at this point which, as long as your starter and battery wires are ok, usually points to the ignition switch. With that cluster of hacks into it I wouldn't be surprised if something is lose there. Try Hans' test to see but like its' already been mentioned it might be worth getting one just to clean that mess up.

Got it started!
I think the starter motor signal wire is/was dirty at the connector, but after wiggling that it seems to start up ok now!

Only casualty of the Clifford alarm UN-install seems to be I lost power to my innovative wideband gauge, so that's good I'll fix that..

*bows*