Printable View
Twice now the car (the white 95) has stuttered and dropped to a low idle for a second when I closed the hood while it was running.
Now I can't get it to do it. My first thought was a loose ignition wire somewhere, so I prodded around everything I could think of with a tool and couldn't get it to do it. Ordinarily the car runs fine, but did run rough once when coming up to a stop sign.
Any ideas? I'd hate for this to lead to being stranded at some point.
Don't know how it would relate to the hood Chris, but my blown cap gave my the occasional low-erratic idle...:huh:
Hopefully the ecu is ok, it is a 99 SL ecu with the boost circuit added by Jester 6 months ago.
I wonder if it doesn't mess up the maf reading temporarily.
There's a thought...should be able to mimic that somehow.Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
Usually the battery grounding out against the hood.
Jeremy
A really good idea. I just went and put some grease on the positive terminal and it didn't leave a mark on the hood.Quote:
Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy
My guess is its the knock sensor. If you have a logger maybe you could log and then close the hood to see if anything shows up.
Yeah if I could reliable reproduce the problem I'd log the thing. The tactrix is logging constantly, but it doesn't have its own clock/calendar. Without timestamps it would be impossible to align when the car did that to a log.
is something contacting your throttle body? maybe washer hose or something?
Evo maf? I remember reading somewhere about people tapping them and idle changes, not sure if it was only on problematic mafs though.
yes, evo maf
Was curious abut this. Been running my SL without an air filter (open MAF) for a while. Tried to create an air wave that might somehow disturb the sensor readings by opening and shutting it....
Didn't have any sort of effect.
Knock sensor readings wouldn't effect anything at idle.
My best guess would the same as Hillbilly.
Go out and give your maf a good tap with the back of a screwdriver or something and report back.
Edit, from what I remember Greg the problem wasn't about airflow fluctuations.
will do, going to be out there anyway. The warm start issue is back since it got a little warmer. Not a huge fan of fic 1050s at the moment.
Setup your pump to be dual speed like stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
I'm about ready to go back to 560s. I really am beginning to think there is something wrong with these injectors.
Well I got a little depressed messing around with this warm restart so much:
http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...oSi12_AA2V.jpg
Couldn't do a full pull as the road was not a good place to be doing it. Cars running pretty rich. I do not have boost logging but it is 15 PSI or less. I think it is dropping towards redline because I need to run some more duty cycle. Need to get the logging installed.
Leaning it out a bit and running to redline should get about 400 IMHO. Pretty good for the low boost.
Hopefully you will have a little more power to be made going a little leaner if you are indeed running E85 right now since I can't remember if you switched yet and turn up the boost a few more psi. Ray's motor had DR Stage III heads when he made 526AWHP at 18 psi on pump so hopefully you'll get in the ballpark with those 750s. I would be disappointed with 400AWHP on pump since it can be done with 15G or 19T turbos. You won't get nearly as flat of a torque curve you have though.
I would have thought maybe one of the spark plug wires was arcing to the valve cover or hood somehow but I doubt you have them sticking out any at all for that to be a problem. I'm going back to a set of OEM wires since I don't like the longer MSD fitment.
nope still running 93 and actually running less wastegate duty cycle than stock. Only thing I can do is glance at the boost gauge and it looked near 15 when I looked. There is little reason dr750s will make much more power than 19Ts at only 15PSI or less. As far as I know it could be tapering off to 12 PSI or something. I just need to get my map sensor installed.
If you saw the datalog it is actually pegged rich in the high 9s after a little over 5K. I'm sure there is 50HP in just leaning it out.
I have stock heads on this car. If I made close to 450 by 18 PSI I'd actually be pretty happy. All I really ever want to do is break 500 without breaking a sweat. If it takes e85 and 20+ PSI to do that, then it is okay. I'm not going to ever try to run more than 550 on this stock engine.
Buddies '94 SL has the same bog/shutter when he closes is hood, haven't looked into it. And is all stock.
If Adam and I can run these injectors without issue, so can you. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
Maybe tonight if you're in the mood to tinker we can talk over the phone and try some things
I'm not saying that it is impossible to run this brand, size, or style of injector, but I'm starting to wonder if mine aren't dripping while the car sits. FIC wants $72 to check them for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg E
I'll fire my rom over to you a little later if you don't mind taking a look at it. I also started writing notes down about each tune.
I'm certainly open to any help you can provide. The thing that sucks is it is so inconsistent. The worst part is when I leave the car sit while I'm at the gym. It actually starts worse there than if I just leave it in my garage. I'll take a video so you can see how it acts. It hits instantly but then seems to flood out after that. I've altered the tables to my best knowledge so far.
Perhaps you have a leaking injector making it load up?
JEremy
It seems really inconsistent, which would make me consider a mechanical problem like that, but it is also possible I don't know what I'm doing.Quote:
Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy
4/10/2013 10:10 AM. Sat since 8:35.
Fired perfectly up , coolant temp was ~115
Do you still have the FPR solenoid hooked up?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
Miss your herd of piggies yet? :p haha, just messing with ya. Hopefully it's just the battery terminal or something similarly simple to fix.
yes, but it is disabled, set to only come on over 250 degrees.Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg E
lol, car was flawless on the reasonably sized injectorsQuote:
Originally Posted by AdamVR4
Humor me and route a temp vac line to eliminate it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
sure can, it will have to be later tonight.Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg E
The problem is it is so random. I fired it up before and after lunch today and it was fine. The only thing it does in the times where it is most likely to have an issue is it will fire up close to stoic, then drift lean for about 30 seconds and then come back. Normally it doesn't do this, only when it has been sitting in this window where it is most likely to flood on startup.
The other thing is I took it out last night and ran it hard quite a bit. Daily it doesn't see this. I probably just drive 3-4 miles a day around town. I rev it out when I get a chance, but it doesn't really normally get run all that hard.
It is possible that even just running it hard last night will make the problem go away for while if it cleaned the plugs off well.
ok, tried it again after sitting about 40 minutes. Car fired right up. Went lean for about 20 seconds, slowly coming back to stoic.
good enough it if stays this way, but I bet after the gym tonight it'll barely fire. I guess the car wants me to work on it instead of getting into shape, lol.
Well I fired it up about 10 times today at various intervals, including after the gym and had no issues other than that temporary lean running, which doesn't bother me.
I'm not sure if the changes I made to the tune fixed it or if going out and running the car WOT for a while just de-fouled the plugs. They could've been fouled from the previous flooding.
For those that want to know, to run 1050s on gas you have to pull a TON out of the primer pulse. I will share the couple of tables I had to change if it is okay with Greg.