After installing my TT brakes, my CV joint seems to be leaking alot of grease. Could I have bent it too far possibly by trying to get the spindle off? How long will it last by loosing grease every drive?
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After installing my TT brakes, my CV joint seems to be leaking alot of grease. Could I have bent it too far possibly by trying to get the spindle off? How long will it last by loosing grease every drive?
you have either split or popped the boot off the joint, best to clean that off and check it. axles are fairly cheap to buy. but dont have that grease flying everywhere its horrible stuff.
how long will it last? centrifugal force will squeeze the grease from the joint all together and you will end up with a dry joint that will fail.
best to address it now rather than later.
well its definitely not slipped off. its tight on there. ill go look for openings.
hmm, nothing that I can see. The clamp is tight but it is everywhere. it looks like its seeping through behind the clamp there. Is there supposed to be an arch in the clamp?
I suppose I should get new ones anyway, seeing as how I'll be racing soon.
sorry was elswhere. no there should not be any arches in the clamp bud. sounds like its trapped on something. try autozone for prices. they will me remanned but they are as good as new.
hmmm, they both have it though and the other side isn't leaking a thing. It definitely looks manufactured into the clamp. I guess, I should buy new ones anyway.
On another note, how well do brand new 3sx ones handle aggressive driving?
yes the "arch" is how they pinch the clamp tight. just replace the axle. once the boot opens up, dirt gets in there and its done. you COULD replace just the boot but its easier to do the entire thing; and the dirt will grind away at the needle bearings.
$100 is cheap, even for 3sx. I Think I might replace all of them just to freshen it up.
Hmm, buying one side axle and not the other wont make it favor one side in acceleration will it? Seeing as how it will most likely rotate smoother.
no. you're thinking too hard about it.
oh you mean the crimped part! i thought you meant it had been caught.
anyway.....it wont hurt to fit one but if you want to fit two as a matching pair thats entirely your choice, it will not do any harm but it will ensure you have good drive shafts each side ;)
Good, don't like to spend money if I dont have to.
colt, that puma gto is the N1 racecar right? What about the yeller one.
no sir it was my replica the yellow one is what i butchered it for.
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...&id=1407677767
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...&id=1407677767
Nice! Did it perform like the real N1? :P
hahaha is that gran turismo 2??? I think thats a made up car. I dont know, but good work! was it worth it?
lol no GT1 and i doubt it performed like the N1 lol it was a stock GTO TT that ran 13.1 1/4 mile.
google GTO LM Edition, in the youtube page its on you will also see the puma on the strip, if not click my other vids.
look for splits in the boot, examine it with your hands, squeeze it... spray it with brake clean to clean it off.
Is there grease flying everywhere?
Check your ball joint and tie rod boots also.
ball joint died a long time ago, and tie rod end is good. i just did a brake upgrade which is why it probably split in the first place. grease is everywhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike-92RT
Which brings me to a point, whats the easiest way to replace those nasty ball joints? :D
front or rear?
if you have acces to a 10T press you can press out the old joint and press a new one in. joints are available from 3sx and any good vendor. a complete arm from mitsu will cost you an arm and a leg and your next born son.
http://www.3sgto.org/showthread.php?1032-Ball-Joints Here is one method of doing the front ball joints.
that is wonderful.