Getting new ECS struts. Am I going to wreck them with Tein H springs?

I have 110,000 miles on my ECS struts. I was interested in lowering the car, as well. After reading all the coilover threads for daily ride comfort, it seems to me ECS Tour mode is the way to go. I was planning on replacing the stock springs with Tein H for a minimal drop, but have read opinions that this will lead to the ECS struts failing prematurely. If this is indeed true, how soon will they fail? Twice as fast? Even at that pace, I should be good for another 9 or 10 years. Why is it suggested I replace the bumper stops as well -- because I am going to be hitting them more?

Thanks,

Geordon

You should replace the bump stops because the old ones are likely starting to crumble. You also need to trim them to keep shock travel.

I can't speak for how long the ECS shocks will last, but like you said, even twice as fast is no big deal. Does anyone have solid info on this?

Have you considered doing away with the ECS and picking up some KYB GR-2s?

I was considering BC Racing coilovers or even the KWv3, but couldn't justify the price of the KWs at $1900, and it seems the <$1000 coilovers can't offer as soft of a ride as ECS Tour mode. How would the KYB GR-2 replacement be better than ECS?

I just replaced my ECS struts and lowered with Tein S Tech and H Tech (used both because of Spyder spring rates). At 95000 miles my struts were not returning to normal position after compression but I hadn't noticed ride problems. I expect to get another 100K on these but if I don't I'll deal with it. I suggest you get S tech instead of H tech. It will lower it a bit more and will still ride great.

it will not make much or any difference, the shock travels up and down...thats it! so instead of it travelling up and down in the position it has for 110,000 miles it will have a different position thats all. and tien s will also be stiffer than stock so the shocks will not move as much as they previously did.

my answer is, yes its completely safe to do so.

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Originally Posted by Geordon

I was considering BC Racing coilovers or even the KWv3, but couldn't justify the price of the KWs at $1900, and it seems the <$1000 coilovers can't offer as soft of a ride as ECS Tour mode. How would the KYB GR-2 replacement be better than ECS?

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To me the pricing on new ECS struts more than justifies going with the GR-2s. I don't use the ECS in my car as I always forget about it so maybe I am a little biased. They are less than 1/3 the price of ECS struts iirc, but if you enjoy the ECS feature I guess I will shush away in the corner :)

keep the ECS. The ride with gr-2s is not that great.

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Originally Posted by MADMarc

To me the pricing on new ECS struts more than justifies going with the GR-2s. I don't use the ECS in my car as I always forget about it so maybe I am a little biased. They are less than 1/3 the price of ECS struts iirc, but if you enjoy the ECS feature I guess I will shush away in the corner :)

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I guess it depends on where you buy your struts. 3SX sells the full set of AWD GR-2s for $360. Cherry Hill Triplex sells ECS struts for about $540 (based on their online prices -- I have been quoted less on other parts over the phone). That is 1/3 less, not 1/3 the price. If the sole reason to drop ECS is money, $180 isn't worth it to me. Thanks for the suggestion, though.

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Originally Posted by jimvr4

I suggest you get S tech instead of H tech. It will lower it a bit more and will still ride great.

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I was avoiding the S.Tech, so I wouldn't have to get adjustable rear control arms.

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Originally Posted by colt45 gto

the shock travels up and down...thats it! so instead of it travelling up and down in the position it has for 110,000 miles it will have a different position thats all.

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I just spoke with my brother, who is a mechanic. He made a good counter point against those who say the shorter spring causes earlier strut failure due to it being compressed all the time. He said the strut is always under compression already, as can be demonstrated by jacking up the car -- the body must be lifted an inch or two before the wheel even starts to leave the floor, which means the strut wasn't fully extended to begin with.

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Originally Posted by Jimvr4

I just replaced my ECS struts and lowered with Tein S Tech and H Tech (used both because of Spyder spring rates).

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You bought 2 sets of springs? Which ones did you use where? :)

Whether you get H or S techs, you may or may not have to install the adjustable arms. It has been hit and miss on what I have read elsewhere. I had the same ??? about 6 months ago and went with S techs, I am wanting coil overs now! Springs and arms are gonna be around $400, and double for for entry level coil overs.

I love the ECS with S techs. You get a comfy ride and when you want good cornering with stiffness. I just want the car lower now and want to autocross soon...

I found the front ECS struts for $126.00 on one of the mitsu parts sites...

My experience,

Bill

Sig is with S techs...

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Originally Posted by Geordon

I just spoke with my brother, who is a mechanic. He made a good counter point against those who say the shorter spring causes earlier strut failure due to it being compressed all the time. He said the strut is always under compression already, as can be demonstrated by jacking up the car -- the body must be lifted an inch or two before the wheel even starts to leave the floor, which means the strut wasn't fully extended to begin with.

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yep its all it does, doesn't do much els!
all it is is fluid that escapes to and forth from one cylinder to another cylinder and back again via a series of holes to slow it down.. nothing magical just a damper. even with ecs its the exact same thing only its controlled by an actuator that opens the holes wider or closes them back to original size.

makes no odds if the strut is way at the top or way at the bottom (provided it doesn't bottom out...but iit cant the spring will become coil bound first).

Thanks for the support, guys. I am convinced enough to go ahead with the Teins. Will only cost me $140 more than stock, as the shop will charge me more labor to reinstall the stock springs over the shorties.

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Originally Posted by thestealth

You bought 2 sets of springs? Which ones did you use where? :)

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Yes, the S Techs are in the front and the H Techs are in the back. With S Techs in back the Spyder would have sat a little too low especially with the top down :)

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Originally Posted by Geordon

Thanks for the support, guys. I am convinced enough to go ahead with the Teins. Will only cost me $140 more than stock, as the shop will charge me more labor to reinstall the stock springs over the shorties.

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huh?

its the same job! you mean they will charge more to fit a set of lowering springs than they will a set of stock? i'm confused! please explane this to me.... in the shops words!

its exactly the same job to remove the struts and fit whatever springs you want, no deviation from stock to lowered.

if anything they should charge less because the car wont sit as high :lol:

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Originally Posted by colt45 gto

huh?

its the same job! you mean they will charge more to fit a set of lowering springs than they will a set of stock? i'm confused! please explane this to me.... in the shops words!

its exactly the same job to remove the struts and fit whatever springs you want, no deviation from stock to lowered.

if anything they should charge less because the car wont sit as high :lol:

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Colt, you got it backwards. As I stated, the shop will charge less with lowering springs -- my guess is because they won't need to compress them, as the nut will thread onto the strut with Teins without using the compression tool The $140 increase is what it would cost me for Teins minus the upcharge w/o Teins. Make sense?

Maybe, I should just try and do it myself?

Its an easy job to do yourself. The stockers come apart by just getting an air gun on there, pointing them away from you and zapping the bolt off. I have done it about 3 times so far on my own car and twice for friends.

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Originally Posted by wraith

Its an easy job to do yourself. The stockers come apart by just getting an air gun on there.

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I guess that is where I am lacking. I have wrenches and a torque wrench, but my 1 1/2 gal air compressor was purchased strictly for airing up my tires. I have no pneumatic tools or specialty tools.

Make sure you use a penetrating oil a day or two before you or anyone else does the job!!!!

The nut 9 times out of 10 will snap the strut at the top and you will be spending more coin for new ones. If one breaks you should replace both.

The shop will not pony up for busting it either...

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Originally Posted by Geordon

I guess that is where I am lacking. I have wrenches and a torque wrench, but my 1 1/2 gal air compressor was purchased strictly for airing up my tires. I have no pneumatic tools or specialty tools.

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I don't have any air tools. I just bolted the spring compressors on to get a grip and used my impact driver to loosen the top nut. One extra thing you have to do with the lowering springs is cut the bump rubber shorter. Tein has a guide in the box to tell you how much to cut off.