Clutch fork loose???

Ok so years ago I rebuilt my cylinder heads, removing my engine from the car. I also replaced the clutch while I was at it. I bought an OEM exedy clutch, same one that was in my car already. When I put everything back in, everything was fine until my master cylinder leaked into my car. I put a new one in, and now my pedal sticks to the floor. Long story short I took it off the road.

Now, I have dropped a newer JDM engine in, same clutch, and I have bled the master cylinder. There's no air in my clutch system. But after 2 hours of bleeding, I came to realize my clutch fork had a lot of play in it. Never looked at it when I swapped engines. Could something have popped loose? My clutch kit came with a new bearing, so I know thats good. I took a video of me moving it. I'm gonna try and upload it.

Need help ASAP! Trying to get this car on the road this week!

I have heard of clutch forks actually being bent. Might want to consider that.

Okay so I pulled my transmission again, and found out it actually broke. I am low on funds atm to buy a new one, so I got it professionally welded for 30 bucks. I got excited, put it back in, thinking that it'll solve my problem, annddd nope. Clutch pedal still sticks to the floor. The fork still barely moves back and forth when pressing the pedal. Any other ideas? Could the release bearing clip be a factor? A worn down fork?

Help lol

It may broke again, which is possibly since the fork is cast and hard to weld.

You also probably need to bleed to clutch and/or adjust the pedal throw.

Yes adjusting the pedal throw with the rod underneath the dash going to the master solved my funny acting clutch issues.

I am sure someone could help you out with a spare clutch fork. They are a dime a dozen.

The guy who welded my fork knew that he was working with cast, I took it to the best experienced welding shop in my city. The fork is back in working order. I will order a new one when I order a stage 1 or 2 clutch. Which I'll be purchasing a new flywheel as well.

My problem is that when I press the pedal down, it sticks to the floor, and when I got my buddy to do it I saw the slave and fork already look like they're extended, and when you push the pedal down, the slave and fork barely move. I took a video, I just wish I can share it with you guys.

I'm gonna throw some ideas out there. Could it be the bearing clip? Release bearing even tho it's new? Could it be that I didn't bench bleed my master cylinder?

Like I said it's related to either air in the system needing bled, or the adjustment of the rod being out of spec.

I didn't bench bleed my master when I put it in and didn't have an issue. The fact that you put a new master in tells me you need to check the pedal free play first.

Another problem with the FWD is the clutch damper which is bolted to the top of the trans and is before the slave cylinder. That damper has caused so many nightmares to so many people over the years because it makes the system much more difficult to get all the air out. I deleted mine years ago and couldn't be happier.

If I were in your situation I would first delete the damper, then gravity bleed the slave, then verify clutch pedal free play and adjust as necessary. If you still have a problem then you probably have something broken on the clutch or pressure plate itself. The fact that you just had the trans out should probably rule that out if you checked it at that point though.

I've had the transmission off 3 times so far after the swap lol. It all looks fine to me. Is there a thread on how to adjust the pedal?

http://www.3sgto.org/3000gt-stealth-...html#post17928

There is also a video in that thread from Jack's Transmission. I have tried the Jack's method and do not like it. Measuring the pedal fee play is the easier method IMO.

I just ran out and grabbed my owners manual and scanned this in for you to show you how to check for free play and the specs as well.

http://www.3sgto.org/members/stealth...58-picture.jpg