help: 93 vr4 running rough suddenly (datalogs incl.)

1993 3000gt vr4, 117k, new jdm engine and tranny. chrome ecu.

Bought this car a 5 months ago. Has been driving fine for a couple months. Really it would have been driving fine for 5 months for the most part but the hoses came off and the gas tank went dry (gauge doesnt work at all).

Drove fine for 2 months. Drove fine friday night. Saturday morning started the car up and it immediately ran rough. It runs like a misfire, or a large boost leak. Checked for leaks with a friend who is building his own vr4. He knows these cars fairly well and neither of us found anything significant. The car sounds like a v8 with straight pipes sort of (ie: low octave), and the pulsing of the engine or exhaust sounds about half speed. When you press on the gas it is sluggish and will rev up but really doesnt want to. Also if you rev it to 2k it will knock. The knock (which it never had before) can get pretty bad at times. Its not valve knock or whatever its engine knock. But you could feel it a couple times.

We checked for boost leaks, checked the plugs that go on the spark plugs, pulled the plugs etc. One of them (cylinder 5) was pretty thick with carbon from running rich/lean.

I did some datalogs to see if someone cant give me an idea of where to look what to try etc. I dont really have the time or budget to try 'everything' it could be and just keep shooting in the dark. But I would appreciate any help to point me in the right direction.

If anyone has had similar issues chime in.

Car has aftermarket fuel mods btw. FPR makes a clicking noise, and the fuel car smells a little fumey towards the lower rear of the engine bay. Not to lead any to jump to a fueling conclusion but just stating what ive noticed.

Datalogs from today:

usp=sharing"]https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1WaaDVKuookSkxSRkx1U2JtNFE/edit?usp=sharing[/URL]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1W...it?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1W...it?usp=sharing


These are from the other day. More variables were selected. Friend wasnt here.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1W...it?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1W...it?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1W...it?usp=sharing


thanks for any input. Please help.

Nate


more about the car below




1993 3000GT VR4 ~117,000 miles on the body
2nd Gen JDM Engine (unknown miles) very clean runs strong
JDM 6sp trans aka "MR gearing" shifts great
Just did FULL 120K service with all OEM parts including T-Belt, Oil pump, Water pump, all new fluids


1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4: JDM Engine & 6sp. Trans - SS TD04 Manifolds & O2 Housings - JIC Twin Spartan Cat-back - CX Racing 3" shorty DP - Maximal Performance 3" High Flow Cat - XTD Stage 3 Clutch & Flywheel - Clone ECU 2 - EVO 560cc Injectors - DeatschWerks DW300 320 LPH (Hotwired) - IPS Fuel Hat - STM -6AN Fuel feed line kit - Custom -6AN Return line - Fuel Lab FPR & Fuel filter - oohnoo Fuel loop - CX-Racing Front Mount Oil Cooler - 3SX Single Pass Aluminum Radiator - Mishimoto Slim Fan shroud - CX Racing SMIC Hard Pipe Kit - Greddy RZ BOV - AEM Wideband - Prosport Premium Series 52mm gauges: Boost, Oil pres. & Water temp. - STM ABS Delete - Vac reduction

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8...018_152337.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W...018_152356.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-M...018_152446.jpg

[QUOTE=stealthtuner83;8271530]Took it to a tuning shop because of the issues. They found nothing wrong with the injectors, fuel system, ignition or anything else. But that the car is running REALLY rich. 10.5 afr when attempting to drive.

They thought the car lost its tune somehow (dead battery, alarm key lost: limp mode possible, etc). Well I flashed the car with the tune and it didnt work. Unless something is really wrong with the tune.

I dont know how to share the map on here.




I successfully flashed the car with a base map adjusted for evo 560 scaling and latency.

bad news is this. It did not fix the car.

See here for numbers adjusted:

help me get my 93 vr4 setup for evoscan/ecuflash - Page 4 - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center



Anyways, car is running rough out of nowhere after running fine for months. Took it to one mechanic, then a tuning shop. injectors are firing, so are spark plugs, plugs were changed, maf was swapped (no change), have a spare coilpack, no boost leaks, car idles and could theoretically drive if I wanted to destroy my engine. knock at higher than 2k revs.

what the heck?

tuning shop thought my car lost its map (dead battery, alarm, limp mode etc) and it just needed a flash again. Didnt work. Unless there is something extremely wrong with the map.

welcome welcome!!

thanks everyone. Ive been on 3si.org for awhile but they sent me here. They said the developers for chrome were on here and that because they don't pay certain dues to 3si they dont allow them to yada yada their product or be a seller. some political nonsense.

sharing my chrome rom

xml: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1W...RHeENvbmc/view

bin : https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1W...pGZFhfR3c/view

if either of these dont work let me know how I can fix it.

I think you probably want:

Periphery 0:
Turn off bit 14 O2 Heater Functions

Periphery 2:
Turn off bits 15, 14, 13, 11, 10, 9, 3, 1


Does your car have two functioning narrowband sensors installed? If so, when you log both stock O2 voltages, do they react as they should? In EvoScan, these should be "Primary Oxygen Sensor Front" and "Primary Oxygen Sensor Rear". If your car only has a rear narrowband sensor connected, then you also want to disable Periphery 0 bit 2.

There's probably something else wrong than just that, but you want to get everything set up as properly as possible to eliminate variables.

is it just me or does your TDC indicator on the crank pulley seem WAY off? Is that just a nick in the pulley?

its strange. had no issues before. timing belt is new(kevlar). 120k just done with oem parts. timing marks (4 or 8 depending on how you think about it) on the cam gears are perfect. timing mark on the crank pulley is way off. but if that was adjusted timing marks on the cams would be way off. i really dont think this is a timing issue. perhaps the pulley wasnt exact from the beginning. idk.

as far as the o2 sensors I dont know. I know I have an aem wideband that is running its own sensor. can you tell from the datalogs anything about the o2 sensors?

Take out the #1 cylinder spark plug, but a long screwdriver down the hole, turn the crank pulley clockwise until the screwdriver is at its highest. Do the cam marks line up? If not, then your crank/cam timing is still off.

Not sure why on earth you would assume that the crank pulley should be off yet somehow be okay. Find out for sure with the above test.