So who wants their ECU's "Chromed"?

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Originally Posted by JonB

Now since installing it I have been fighting with it trying to get all the CELs to go out. After reading the thread I am going to try Adam's peripheral setup and see if that does the trick. I think I have the chrome V1.0 for ECUflash and am eagerly awaiting V2.0! :D Now I know I don't have the file for EVOscan so I will need to do that. I have been using V2.7. Can I use the chrome file with this version or do I need to go V2.6? I am using windows 7 so I will probably have to do a re-install under a different folder as stated in the thread.
My next question is about the CAS lag time on the first gens. I need to adjust my timing map to compensate for this?
this ;)

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1G cars must use the periphery bit setup that was posted earlier in this thread to not get a CEL.

Evoscan V2.6 is the only supported version, and I would install to the root of the drive (C:)

Yes, this is what I came up with for the conversion. Anyone please chime in if I am way off basis here.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/591yoo247a...iming.Calc.xls

Has anyone else tried the logworks converter? I am looking for a couple more people to help me out with something :)

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Originally Posted by JonB

My next question is about the CAS lag time on the first gens. I need to adjust my timing map to compensate for this?
I was kind of wondering if Greg would be willing to do me a quick tune for my setup and I can tweak it from there. :D I would be willing to make a separate donation for this ;)

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Guys don't understand that it's not just your timing thats off, it's literally everything. The CPU timer uses the crank sensor as a way to measure time. Since that's off with the photo sensor, everything is off as a result.

There's no need to adjust the timing back as you should be using knock count as a gauge for how much advance you can get away with. In reality, you don't need to change anything. Just tune the car for your perfect AFR and no knock. No need to worry about what number is in the box. ;)

Toni car is a good example of this. His car is a 92 with a GM MAFT. Everything is off... Load numbers are innaccurate... However since the stock ECU is basically a stand alone, you can fine tune the areas that the logger tells you need to be fine tuned. It's really that simple... I was able to get 400+HP at the wheels with all these "innaccuracies".

About that GM Maft load issues. I'm pretty sure I can change the maf scaling with the maft gen II. Would it make sense to try to stretch out my load to match what a 15g car can do on the stock maf? I realize it would require a complete retune but just wondering if that extra resolution in the tables would do anything for me.

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Originally Posted by Toni

About that GM Maft load issues. I'm pretty sure I can change the maf scaling with the maft gen II. Would it make sense to try to stretch out my load to match what a 15g car can do on the stock maf? I realize it would require a complete retune but just wondering if that extra resolution in the tables would do anything for me.

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Remember my theory about the throttle hang being caused by the low resolution?

Not sure I remember the low resolution part only that it was something general with the translator being off. I should be able to run the other tests this weekend, so hopefully can pinpoint the problem.

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Originally Posted by Greg E

Fooling the secondary sensors is easy. ;)
Leave bit 2 of periphery 0 on and bit 3 of periphery 2 off. If your adaptor harness is setup correctly, both banks will work and your CEL will never come on for the missing sensors. Pf course this is illegal on 96+ cars.

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Will this have any unintended consequences?

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Originally Posted by Greg E

Guys don't understand that it's not just your timing thats off, it's literally everything. The CPU timer uses the crank sensor as a way to measure time. Since that's off with the photo sensor, everything is off as a result.

There's no need to adjust the timing back as you should be using knock count as a gauge for how much advance you can get away with. In reality, you don't need to change anything. Just tune the car for your perfect AFR and no knock. No need to worry about what number is in the box. ;)

Toni car is a good example of this. His car is a 92 with a GM MAFT. Everything is off... Load numbers are innaccurate... However since the stock ECU is basically a stand alone, you can fine tune the areas that the logger tells you need to be fine tuned. It's really that simple... I was able to get 400+HP at the wheels with all these "innaccuracies".

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I did a pull on sunday and logged it. Looks like I got about 4 counts of knock at about 5000 rpm in 3rd gear. Should I start removing some timing at this level through out? Do I do it just in the load 160 column? Sorry I'm a newbie :p

On a side note, I got my buddy to make me up some EGR block off plates and I installed them today. I'm gonna do a complete vacuum reduction tonight if I get a chance as well. Then drop in my updated periphery and hopefully no CEL!

If anyone wants a set of EGR block off plates he can spin them off for a good price :D

If V2.0 can take care of the issues with a draw through setup and an open atmoshpere BOV, I may very well go back to that and get an EVO MAF. There has to be a reason that, 20+ years later, Mitsu is still using MAFs and draw through setups in high-ish HP cars like the EVOs, and I'm thinking that the reason is stability and reliability of the tune when using a MAF. How many factory forced-induction cars come with a speed density setup?

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Originally Posted by JonB

I did a pull on sunday and logged it. Looks like I got about 4 counts of knock at about 5000 rpm in 3rd gear. Should I start removing some timing at this level through out? Do I do it just in the load 160 column? Sorry I'm a newbie :p

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if you guys watch the evo tuning videos it explains everything, but yes basically remove timing in the load area where you have consistent knock. I would also tend to remove timing from higher loads in that rpm range, but start small and don't pull too much.