Back under the knife - I need to buy a welder and get good at welding before I make too much more progress :p
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Back under the knife - I need to buy a welder and get good at welding before I make too much more progress :p
Fixed that for you ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by lawdogg
Working on trying to get this damn truck done now that I'm home from my trip. The VR4 was always much easier to work on than this. Only 3S thing I've done lately is post my short block and heads on eBay and craigslist, it'd be nice to get them sold and have some extra money, but not going to give them away and lose craptons of money. Worst case, I set them aside and whenever I've got some spare capital again I'll put them into another VR4.
A little pull for virtual dyno.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12...0d0ec67acc.jpg
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
Haha, thanks. I love grinding. Grinding compensates for my lack of a bead blaster. :p That being said, what do you think the best budget MIG welder is for things like body sheetmetal and normal thickness & material exhaust piping?Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
Hobart makes some great 110v mig welders that are inexpensive.Quote:
Originally Posted by lawdogg
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
I have a Hobart handler mig welder. It was not very expensive, is made in USA, has a warranty, and works great.Quote:
Originally Posted by murphys_law
Well, obviously the Hobart gets a few votes. I had an Eastwood 135. Worked great for most car projects, only thing that slowed it down was misc. stuff I was doing with some 1/4" pipe. If I could do it again, I'd probably have stepped up to the Mig 175 or a Hobart 190 if my pockets were a bit deeper.Quote:
Originally Posted by lawdogg
Either way set aside some extra money for these items for fact: auto dimming welding helmet (HF has some that work well enough), MIG welding gloves, long sleeve cotton shirt/jacket/something, tank and gas.
Recommend going bigger than you think you need on the tank, fill ups aren't much more expensive for the bigger tanks. If you KNOW you are going to hang onto the welder for a long time, buy the tank. otherwise, just rent it and let them deal with holding onto it when you're not actively welding. I went with a 125 tank myself.
Other stuff I recommend getting as well: nozzle gel (helps reduce splatter and makes cleaning the tip easier), MIG pliers, extra tips, spool of quality welding wire.
I got the calipers installed and the new wheels mounted. Front calipers had to be ground down some to fit and I had to use a 3mm spacer. Still get about a 1/2 wheel poke on the front. The rear I used a 10mm spacer to pull them out some to match the fronts. nice wide stance now. Will get better pictures later once I get it out of the garage.
http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1izzjruy.jpg
http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/...psrlypcg2m.jpg
Also got the clear timing belt covers installed and they fit like crap. gaps everywhere!! wrote up a review on them here: http://www.3sgto.org/3000gt-stealth-...lt-covers.html
http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/...psov3ys8ol.jpg
Funny, but by coincidence the calipers match the adjustable cam gears...LOL
Weighed my car today!
1530 kg/ 3373 lbs
After filling the tank almost full (60Liters)
Still have lots of weightloss mods left to do. Rws delete, cc delete, alu ds, singleshot exhaust(maybe tit). And waiting to machine a few custom engine brackets which will save some too :)
So with all those mods done eventually, I will land at 3283 lbs with full tank.
Almost done with the active exhaust valve repairs!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QhCLxz16jo