4G swap in a 3000gt?

I wonder how the cost compares for making say 500 AWHP on the 6G72 vs. the 4G64. I would guess at 400 AWHP it would be cheaper with the 6G72 cause it could be stock still and you could just use 13T turbos. But for 500 AWHP if you want to build the engine and get a big turbo you think it is cheaper overall with the 4G64? Including everything needed to do the swap?

I'm surprised it only saved you 50-75 pounds. Still a decent amount to get off the FRONT of the car. I wonder how much lighter it would be with a manual.

Looking forward to seeing this thing out and about :)

Unfortunately, I'm guessing on weight for engine. Length of engine is about exactly the same so each head should weigh approx the same. A full head with cams is around 40lbs. Remove a turbo and mani and there's another 15?. Crank weight is close. Block weight, maybe less on 4g. Pistons and rods are negligible.

I'm guessing the auto weighs an extra 50lbs. It's a heavy mofo when you add 8qts of fluid.

I'll eventually weigh my car.

Haven't done the numbers exactly but I'm guessing in the 700 range is where the 4g would be more cost effective which is when both engines need some major work (cams, gears, rods/pistons/turbo(s), BIG injectors) and everything costs more on a 6g. Less than that and you can get by on more of the 6g parts. Not sure on more than that because I don't know what a 4g would need other than a bigger turbo to go from 700 up to say 900....maybe nothing, I don't know?

4g never made 900 on auto. Mid 800s was the highest I know of and that's right around 1000hp on manual.

Maybe I missed it but FamilyMAN are you using the ATX ECU to operate the trans or toggle switches for the shift solenoids?

I was speaking in manual whp terms and completely general. Fact is that parts are more cost-effective on a 4g since there are two less cylinders, one less head and one less turbo (usually) plus greater supply. Billet cranks are 13-1600 with many stroke options.

Unless you are under the hp limit where a 6g doesn't need built or over where a 4g can't play as easily, the 4g will cost less. (I don't want to hear some crazy story of how this engine did that on a stock whatever. There are always exceptions.)

Forcedfour shift box for shifting. Love it. Great customer service. Great product. Manual shifting with buttons on the box or with the horn buttons I wired up when driving around town. You can program it to do auto upshifts for the track. It can be set to shift a a given rpm for each gear. (Ex. 8500 in 1st, 8k in second, 12k in 3rd so it doesn't shift to 4th.)

So you don't want me to tell you the stock 4g63 6bolt record is 9.12 in a BMW and 9.22 in a 1g. :) I just wish the 6g dohc mivec were more available. Anyways Keep up the good work

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by familyMAN

Wheels are ESM 004, BBS reps. They are 18x8 +15 (+20 and 5mm spacer) up front and 19x9.5 +40 in rear. Came across the brand on NSX forums. Been wanting to do a double stagger setup for years so I kept watching what the NSX guys were doing.

---

Was the 5mm spacer in front required to clear the breaks? I see that they make them in a 18x9 +40 and wonder if they would clear, my guess is that it will not as it a decent lip.

Yes to clear brakes. 3-4mm would probably do it though. No way in hell 18x9+40 will clear because of the lip. I originally bought 18x8+35. They took them back for just new shipping fees and swapped them for +20.

Great company to work with. In fact, they called me after placing my order because it looked like NSX fitment but the offset was wrong in rear for an NSX and they wanted to check to see what car I was buying them for to make sure I didn't order wrong.

Finish isn't perfect but I didn't expect it to be for a $700 set of wheels that I will curb at some point anyway. I almost bought the real deal then decided I would hate driving them and worry about it too much.

Hood should clear with some trimming of bracing. Will confirm this weekend but I didn't want to bolt the hood on all the way only to remove it again to pull engine.

It may not even need trimmed but I will to make sure. I'll check my carbon fiber hood also.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by familyMAN

Unfortunately, I'm guessing on weight for engine. Length of engine is about exactly the same so each head should weigh approx the same. A full head with cams is around 40lbs. Remove a turbo and mani and there's another 15?. Crank weight is close. Block weight, maybe less on 4g. Pistons and rods are negligible.

---

For what it's worth, I had to help a buddy ship an Evo block from NY and it came out to about 140 on the pallet. When I shipped my 6G72 I think that I got billed for 175 pounds on the pallet. So likely not a substantial weight savings there, but every bit helps.