Today I discovered that BOTH of my turbos are currently sitting in customs at the U.S./Canada border!!! Can't wait to get those things here and into my car!
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Today I discovered that BOTH of my turbos are currently sitting in customs at the U.S./Canada border!!! Can't wait to get those things here and into my car!
Drove it again without any issues or getting pulled over. It could use some fine tuning but it's been awesome lately. Been pretty much daily driving it. I need a new radar detector.
valentine 1.Quote:
Originally Posted by green-lantern
Sounds like a little bit of work. I had to modify the motor mount brackets one time but it wasn't too bad with a plasma cutter. Lol. Better get that motor back together for good this time and put your car on the road. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by keo92stealth
I checked it and it was fine. The pump was almost new. I made sure there weren't any other issues. I couldn't tell the hose leaked until I physically took it off and blew through it with my hand plugging the other end. I'm keeping an eye on it. I ended up blowing my hotwire fuse because the fuel pump positive wire shorted out. I noticed the heat shrink tubing was a little loose. I need to go get some that's fuel compatible and resolder the positive wire. In another month or so I'll probably have upgraded lines and a SS filter.Quote:
Originally Posted by DK77
I still don't understand what went wrong or why the tensoner keeps giving up. Also it was sketchy as hell anyway cause when I pulled the pin on the plunger u could literally put the pin right back in?? That doesn't sound right. And then when I was using the tool for the tensioner pulley to get the belt tight the motor would rotate when shit was tight ??
Spent 4 hours doing the 60k service on the SL to fix the leaky water pump. Turns out it and the timing belt were aftermarket crap. Looks like someone had reused the auto-tensioner too. It was fully collapsed, and the timing belt was manually set too tight. All good now! :)
Once it's properly tensioned, you should be able to move the pin in and out easily (after having rotated the engine 2 times). When you set the tension on the belt, you didn't have all the slack of the belt around the tensioner pulley. That's why the engine moved. Route the belt from right to left starting at the crank. Keep it TIGHT, while routing it. This will leave all the slack at the tensioner pulley, and when you apply tension, it won't rotate. Then your timing will stay where you set it in the first place.Quote:
Originally Posted by keo92stealth
So even when the pin is pulled u should be able to stick it back in?? Is that what you're saying ?Quote:
Originally Posted by TwIzTeD_3kGt
....yeah
:Brilliant2:
Jason
Don't you have aftermarket springs? Didn't Ray tell you to over tension your belt? Why are you asking if the pin should be able to slide in and out freely? I know you've already been told that only applies to stock (valve train) cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by keo92stealth
Here's the best advice I can possibly give you: get stock valve springs and downgrade whatever you have to in order to use them. You and your mechanic are in over your heads.
For one nobody has ever told me that when u pull the pin on a stock valve train car the pin slides back in freely. 2 im not gonna waste me fucking money by downgrading anything. And 3 you think I would really want to destroy a high dollar engine due so simple mistakes. What do you think I did. The pulley was past the standard smiley face position so I don't know wtf . And that dudes not touching my shit anymore thats for sure. But what the hell did ray mean by setting the tensioner near bottom ?Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamVR4
Tighten the tensioner until it's almost bottomed out inwards.Quote:
Originally Posted by keo92stealth
So not to where its as far as it will come out but in? Weird.Quote:
Originally Posted by anyonebutme
Why is that weird? You want it so that is has the most force on the belt, and if the tensioner were to not push out (occurs during parts of the rotation) or fail, that the belt will not get slack enough to skip.Quote:
Originally Posted by keo92stealth
aftermarket valve springs are stiffer than stock. This also means in parts of the rotation the springs try and spin the cams backwards and cause slack in the belt. If you don't have enough tensioner excursion distance, belt skips.
Hmm. That does make sense. Ill probably make a rebuild thread in a few weeks so hopefully you guys can feed me some knowledge on other things as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by anyonebutme
come into chat more often, that's where I dispense most of the world's greatest [free] 3S advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by keo92stealth
Lol for sureQuote:
Originally Posted by anyonebutme
I didn't know that upgraded springs needed that much more tension. New to me. I guess my motor was ok the whole 10 minutes it ran when I tensioned it where the grenade pin went in and out freely. I had cams and upgraded springs.
Today I ended up tracing a short for my fuel pump I ended up blowing the hotwire fuse a few days ago checking the fuel pump. It's a good thing I fixed the hose too because now the car runs great. I could only get about 14 psi without knocking on 91 which I think was probably because of the advanced timing due to the 720 injectors. Out of curiosity I decided to put some ethanol in the tank to see if it would run like crap before when it randomly misfired. Nope not this time. I was able to run 17 psi and I probably have about a E35-40 mix in the tank. I can't wait until I switch back to e85 and crank up the boost. It definitely likes it leaner. I went from about 11:1 on 91 to 12.5:1 on the mix although since it wasn't full e85 I probably should have ran it a little richer in hindsight. That's probably why it had a few knock counts at 17 psi.
Twice while I was driving I could hear a ticking when I came to a stop and idled. When I rev'd it went with the rpms. As soon as I started moving though it went away. It only did it two different times and I couldn't get it to repeat so I think the lifters bled down. I'll be checking my oil and filter just in case. I have around 13 psi at 750 rpms which concerns mean since it has been that way for a few months and I'd like it to be higher so when I swap to a 5-speed I will be pulling the motor with the transmission to check the bearings and oil pump unless of course it doesn't survive until then. Lol. I better not jinx myself. :p
Time to get this thread back on track, This ^^^^ Needs to be in its own thread.
Finally found time to get back to all my Pm's, and do some here and there work on the car
Got it ready to pull motor and trans when it gets to shop. Also swapped old trim for new trim.
Old crappy trim
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/.../Progress5.jpg
New shiny one
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...0/Progress.jpg
Tan crap A pillars
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/.../Progress3.jpg
Installed new charcoal ones
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/.../Progress4.jpg
Starting on the headliner in the next couple weeks, will be carbon fiber wrapping it. Also plan to pull the carpet, dye it and condition it.
1) You're hilarious. I'm not going to give myself a head ache re-reading your thread about this... I know someone, potentially multiple people, told you that in stock configuration, when the timing is set correctly, after rotating the engine 2-3 revolutions, the pin slides in and out freely. Hell, I might have. I know that came up because you didn't make your full mod list immediately clear, so you made a bunch of people waste their time giving you advice that wasn't applicable (the stiffer than OEM springs you think you need complicate the situation considerably).Quote:
Originally Posted by keo92stealth
Even if they didn't give you the OEM advice, that exact information is all widely available on several forums, websites, and the service manual. It's embarrassing that you've spent this much time wrestling with a car you have THIS much money into and you STILL don't have the factory service manual. It took 5 seconds to find a torrent: Complete 3000GT Service Manual E-Book - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center... I prefer my hard copy. How did you think you assembled engines? Hopes and dreams? Do you know what a torque wrench is?
2) You wasted your money buying parts you couldn't successfully install, trying to build a car beyond your abilities.
3) Didn't you? You had most of the best minds in the 3S world offering you advice and you still stubbornly installed your belt as you saw best and you ended up bending valves rather than listening/understanding what you were being told.
4) You're hung up on the wrong thing and have been for what, weeks, months? The pulley position (indicated by the spanner wrench holes) isn't what matters. The position of the tensioner rod, indicated to the mechanic by the force required to remove the grenade pin, is ALL that matters. If it slides in and out freely AFTER spinning the engine a couple times, it's in the OEM position. If it requires force, it's either OVER or UNDER tightened... And hopefully you can figure out which by using your eyes.
Dammit that took too long to type... And I won't be apologizing for this one.
Heat Shields :)
http://i47.tinypic.com/35jy2k1.jpg
Slotted Rotors, Ceramic Pads, Painted Calipers, Black Lug Nuts (but forgot to clean wheels/tires)
http://i46.tinypic.com/n62vzp.jpg
nice! those heatshields are just painted right? if so what type of paint did you use?Quote:
Originally Posted by n2nsanity
Leftover duplicolor caliper paint.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcs...2_pri_larg.jpg
Won't that be a fire hazard on the manifolds?Quote:
Originally Posted by n2nsanity
Not looking for you to apologize lol calm yourself Adam man. Don't wanna get on someone's bad sad that has tons of knowledge and shit I might need in a few weeks. Even when your talking shit your still spilling knowledge lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamVR4
Ok now back on track. Boomer I thought u sold it. Did u end up keeping or buying another?
Man I'm curious to see what the 1000s would do now.Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboSinceBirth
Will u guys shut up. Tired of being notified of this thread expecting to read something epic or see awesome pictures and all it actually is is you two writing posts that everyone and there grandma has too short of a attention span to read and doesnt care anyways. Jeeze.
Vote for pedro.
Washed and vacuumed it.
chromed intake pipes
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...romeintake.jpg
Look good Duttch ^
Is spyder girl going turbo or you going to chrome your car now Mark?
they r for the vr4, they always bugged me not being shiny lol and since the turbos were out I figured its time to chrome themQuote:
Originally Posted by green-lantern
will be doing the same soon
But then the rest will look dull. :lo5l:Quote:
Originally Posted by DuTTch
RB in Dallas?Quote:
Originally Posted by duttch
Nor-Cal meet than a big multi car meet at a local coffee shop.
Very Nice :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DuTTch
No RB went commercial, this is DMC here in Escondido. first two orders took way to long, this one came in 10 days before their quote so I am not sure how they prioritize but either way it comes out great.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimvr4
Hmm, their website hasn't changed at all :dontknow2: No shipping charges for you now though :DQuote:
Originally Posted by DuTTch
Replaced completely broken front and rear motor mounts on a SOHC, which were causing the engine to twist so much it wouldn't rev over 4k rpm.
Also replaced the shift knob in the VR4 with a factory fresh OEM leather 6-speed knob from 3SX. As well as replaced the faded and worn out upper door weatherstripping. :)
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e2...9-50-12_30.jpg
Yesterday...
Changed oil, took sample of oil, sent it out for analysis, fixed my EDFC wiring, front left was wired backwards after a temporary fix after changing spring pre-load :/