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Greg, I wonder if you could get most of it off with judicious use of a Dremel with one of those wire wheels (maybe a brass one)?Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
I'd think patience would get you damn close, then maybe you could finish it off with a light compound/polish?
The paint on the car is a single stage satin black. No clear coat. So anything I try to do will ruin the paint. Even light sanding and the panel is ruined. I have plans on respraying the entire car in the next year or so. I have a half gallon of the satin black left which is enough to paint the rear, hood and bumper for NG.Quote:
Originally Posted by j2k4
Ah, understood. :wink:Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
Center pins ordered for rear bushings. Added up what ive sent so far just on materials and sch, not including my time and labor. Total cost including r&d is way higher than I had hoped for..had planned to give a couple sets away to friends, but may have to sell them all just to try to recoup some of the costs :( future runs should be cheaper but jfc...
New tie rods arrived today. Significantly less free play than the old ones had, which is slightly concerning. I expected they'd be a bit tighter, but its quite a bit more. They do loosen up after a minute or so of moving it around.
Also, some shots of the bondo work Snook did for where the panels were welded in the bay. Was going pretty well till we started drinking :D. Still, some more sanding, a bit of glaze and some filler primer should resolve that. Couple more spots that need their new pieces welded in, but progress is progress.
Before:
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After:
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Need to pick up a new bit for the drill press for the center pins, but otherwise they're almost ready to be installed, which means rear subframe is almost ready to be installed :D
Likely going to try my hand at a DIY AWS arms for the back, may even replace the front bushing for the trailing arm with a heim before I put it all back under there.
I'd probably try to break it off then get the rest with a plastic scraper and or x-acto knife (for the cracks). It might look fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
I made my own AWS delete when I was converting to AWD cost me about $86. Got some nice Teflon lined Heims from Speedwaymotors.com just seach "heim" and "swedge tube" and you should find everything you need. Don't forget some cone washers as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
Pretty much what I had in mind, especially since a FWD rack will eliminate the awd up there, and a neoprene expansion plug will work for the top of the diff.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodlust182
That's how I did mine. FWD steering rack, expansion plug on the rear dif and got all my parts from Speedway motors.
For the first time in about 2 years I got the rear hatch release cable to work.
When I tried to add remote hatch release with the alarm, it kinda worked, then quit working all together, after that the lever release quite working in the car.
Relocated the pull for the alarm to open the hatch, and adjusted everything and it is now working again, the release lever in the car AND the remote release for the alarm....feeling accomplished.
The best part is, I know this will not become an issue again.
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Did this today. Ninja performance poly front subframe bushings. Need to do the control arm bushings next but would rather use a press for that. Definitely much better shape than the old stockers. New center pin material for rear subframe bushings won't be in till Tuesday unfortunately :( but at least the front cross member is mostly ready to go back on, which means the wheels and tires are almost ready to go back on.