What did you do today to your 3/S?

Nice. I don't have a 60 gallon yet. Likely won't until i give my garage the major overhaul this summer. That being said, I likely won't be ready to paint it until this summer as well ;)

I got this 60 gallon Husky from HomeDepot for little less than $300. It was returned to the store so they had to sell it as refurbished even though nothing on it was broken or repaired. Unit was never hooked up or even filled with oil. Works like a champ.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...d8eea329d51420

I ran about 15 or so feet of black iron pipe in an upside down U shape that the compressor hooks to via a flexible hydraulic line. The black Iron pipe acts as a condenser cooling the air down and gets about 80% of the water. Drain cock at the end of the pipe is used for draining. I then run it into two filters and water separators then into my flex airline kit. No water in my system at all. None of the otehr drain lines on the walls have ever had any water in them. I drain the system every night after use.

I too run a Husky 7 hp/60 gallon compressor ($218 on sale waay back) & have black pipe mounted 30' away with a water trap & my filter/dryer there.

I run another water separator & disposable filter on the gun and have yet to get moisture in the glass moisture separator on the gun.

Greg's system sounds like the way to go & I'll probably be adding another filter once I run more lines across the garage to ensure no moisture ever reaches the gun...I've only shot powder through it so far, but will eventually begin to do some painting.

Here is the thread I wrote up on my completed air system. No clue why some of the images don't work. Going to assume Facebook is on the fritz again...

http://www.3sgto.org/work-safe-discu...ir-system.html

Heads are done now, working on the short block again. Turned it over, noticed it feels like a slight hitch as cyl 1 approaches TDC even with heads off. Relubricated the top end with assembly lube, going to pull the girdle and rod caps tonight/tomorrow to just check for any signs of wear at this point and double check the thrust bearing.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...aa51b90985.jpg

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No signs of horrible contact. There's some scratching to the thrust washers, so maybe didn't get the thrust set properly after all. The end most mains have a couple darker marks, not sure if that's a sign of contact or just from sitting. Most people don't pull apart and analyze bearings again before even running an engine.


Addendum: With further inspection, I got the rod caps off of the two middle rods, no signs of any incidental contact there. I'll get the other 4 off tonight hopefully. Put some more assembly lube on the journals for the mains and the rods as I went since it's been sitting for a while (and likely will be for at least a few more months.)

Thrust washers were installed correctly, however I cleaned them, and reset the thrust again. Hopefully it helps.

Do have the torque wrench to back up my suspicions though, without the heads on, most of the engine requires about 10-15ft/lb to turn over, however as Cylinder 1 approached and left TDC, it jumped up to 25-29ft/lb. Not sure if I'm overanalyzing this, or if I have a genuine problem. Only things I can think at the moment: Ring dragging, piston to wall clearance is too high (Wiseco recommended a .005 I place of the standard .004 given the E85 and boost level) and I'll need to double check the paperwork from the machine shop for that. Not sure what else it may be. Going to torque the bottom end back to spec tomorrow afternoon probably and see if my issue is still there, if so, then I'll just start removing things one at a time until I find what's causing my issue.

Bitchin!

Accomplished a few tasks.. finally removed ABS pump. Also got a piece of gum out of drivers side intercooler. Haha, oops.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...143747_684.jpg

Well..I've had some emotional swings with the car today.

Pulled the #1 cylinder, engine rotated freely. Was getting ready to put a different rod and piston in the cylinder to see if it was the crank/block at fault, or the rod/piston, however Ray noticed I had a mark on my bearings that looked like the cap was backwards. Sure enough, switch it around and it's much smoother now. Still a bit more force to rotate it than I'd expect though, so going to double check stuff. Not sure if I originally installed it backwards, or if I took it off for some reason and then reinstalled it backwards? At any rate, the entire bottom end is getting double checked, as is thrust settings to make sure everything is good to go.

Suffice to say, very glad familyMAN talked me into degreeing my cams since otherwise would've never noticed and I could've been a two time member of the spun bearing club. Or another person who parted out and scrapped a shell. Either way, thinking a few things need to change. 1) Dedicate time explicitly for the engine work, 2) keep my laptop with the FSM pulled up near by, 3) try not to go 3 months between touching it since I can't remember what I was doing.

At this point, pretty much going to approach the shortblock as though I hadn't assembled it at all before. Tear it back down, relubricate everything, retorque everything and keep a list at hand of what I've done close at hand so that if I do have to leave it be for a bit, I know what I left off with. Hopefully this week I can just knock it all out in one go though and not have to do anything with it anymore.

Got my AC clutch pulley swapped out. Fixed that squeal, but there is still a high pitched squeal when I am above 3k rpms and have a load on the engine. I think it is the PS idler pulley I hope. Else it is something with the timing belt. Will check tomorrow. Might have to dig into the timing belt =/.