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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...1f4c39cdd7.jpg.
Do I need to align these marks before removing the belt?(4 cam gears and crank sprocket) The manual doesn't say it.Some people do it,some don't. I'm stuck on what to do.
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It's much easier to line everything up before you take it apart so you have less hassle when you put it back together.
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am I set? sorry if I ask so many questions,the thing is I'm nervous and don't want to screw this up. I got the rear plenum 4 bolts to use on the cams. Do i need to lock them all? And is this how you lock them up?
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The rears don't spin. The fronts I usually do not lock as it makes putting the belt on harder IMO. Just let them flop where they want to (keep your figures out of the way, they snap hard).
Just don't rotate the cams more than need to re-time. Like do not go a full revolution to get back around, backup in 90 degrees. The front flops forward IIRC. I usually use two crossed wrenches when re-timing to hold them and then thread the belt over them, them use binder clips to hold the belt to the cams. Once you get two together it won't rotate anymore.
OK nice. Now I'm about to remove the tension but i don't see the pin on the hydraulic tensioner. I read the manual instruction and some forum about resetting it but I can't see to understand. Can I leave it like that and just undo the tension pulleys and remove the belt? http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...6d84d0b71b.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ff6569afb6.jpg
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The pin comes with new tensioners. you can use a small allen key it its place. See the little hole on the front of the tensioner? You put a pin in there and that keeps the plunger inside from extending.Quote:
Originally Posted by Moltinssj2
On a belt that has been in service for a while it may be hard to insert the pin. I like to put some tensioner against those little eye holes using a tensioner tool, then loosen the bolt under them. Now you can wiggle the tension in and out until you can insert the pin in the tensioner body.
The other option is to reset the tensioner in a vice after the plunger has been extended, but there is some debate that this is hard on them.
If you think thats the OG tensioner, belt and idler. You should replace them.
It would suck to get everything else fixed, slap the old shit back on and breaking the belt or skipping teeth.
Guys,I just removed the timing belt, then proceeded to undo the rear manifold bolt and when I started removing the head bolts. Head bolt #3 f**king snap. BAMM!! *sigh* any ideas on how to remove it? The other 7 are just fine.
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It broke? Is the head off?
I mean it didn't broke but the allen socket won't work.Like what happened with the crank pulley bolt earlier.I don't know the correct work used to call that.
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