What did you do today to your 3/S?

There is an aftermarket company that makes input shaft bearings, but non-OEM obviously. I may still do some research into it.

A non-OEM one still beats a worn out used one that rattles.

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Originally Posted by sergechronos

R seems to be pretty prone to being wiped. 2nd right behind it. There is a GM gear puller intended for like a rear differential that works for pulling those out. Just be careful not to damage the races.

Might be the one at the machine shop now, or the one that's going Monday. There's a few of them getting that done here

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good to hear, don't get mine mixed up with the others :) don't want to reset all the pre-loads.

Lol Chris has them all marked and laid out in specific areas so as not to mix them up. I just do as he says and soak up knowledge. Lots and lots of knowledge.

I know Jack's can get the non-OEM bearings.

I'm thinking for now I'm just going to do the clutch and put in the new fork/ball I ordered and see if that helps. If not, I'll deal with replacing the shaft bearings when either a leak develops or something else goes wrong with the trans. I certainly tend to eat synchros at a disgusting rate.

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Originally Posted by Forest Gump

good to hear, don't get mine mixed up with the others :) don't want to reset all the pre-loads.

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http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...3b9637bfe5.jpg

Sneak preview just for you ;)

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Originally Posted by sergechronos

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...3b9637bfe5.jpg

Sneak preview just for you ;)

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Thanks! p.s. I think the brace is upside down. According to ray:

"hey man dont know why the PM is lost.. the chamfer goes down. grind the case until the brace sits flush with the main bearing area. the brace will be slightly above the counter shaft bearing area because those to areas are not level "

Thanks again

I don't understand why the chamfer would go down. Wouldn't that leave an airgap under the brace unless you counter sink and match the chamfer perfectly?

With chamfer out, you have a good place to weld.

Maybe in visualizing wrong and someone can straighten me out.

Drove it for 10 minutes, got to try out our village's new pavement, parked it back at home, went to the Rally/wrench in my truck, took a pic of Pastrana's car as it passed, came home. :rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by familyMAN

I don't understand why the chamfer would go down. Wouldn't that leave an airgap under the brace unless you counter sink and match the chamfer perfectly?

With chamfer out, you have a good place to weld.

Maybe in visualizing wrong and someone can straighten me out.

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yeah I don't get it either, but I saw Ray posted it that way. I imagine as long as the gear set fits its not a huge problem either way.

sneak peak:

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...92374341980953

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Originally Posted by Forest Gump

yeah I don't get it either, but I saw Ray posted it that way. I imagine as long as the gear set fits its not a huge problem either way.

sneak peak:

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...92374341980953

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Not like the strength of the bracing comes from the chamfer being up or down, I imagine it just helps account for the radiusing where the vertical and horizontal meet. Still too big for that though. I agree the chamfered portion makes a more ideal area to weld.

Color me jealous of the picture. Just hope I'll be here when Chris starts tearing into mine, doubt it though. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...47fc0260ab.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...8cbb064a45.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...3b5a42d249.jpg

These all need to be torn down first for either salvage or rebuild before mine gets looked at.