Broke my shifter bushings........
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Broke my shifter bushings........
Found a local shop yesterday who can weld aluminum and stainless. Once I get a new place to live nailed down, they're going to be taking a look at my TD05 rear mani to touch it up a bit before I get it ceramic coated. They will likely also be doing the welding for the AN fittings to my waterneck and heater core for my own set up. They do quite a few Evos, DSMs, WRXs, etc. on E85, all their personal cars and shop cars run E85 as well, sponsor a local stick shift street drag class at the 1/8th mile track nearby. They'll likely end up being the ones tackling my custom IC piping and exhaust as well.
Technically, that screw would require a counterbore. I would consider that or a countersink and flat head screw. Either way, put the screw head below the top surface of the wheel. I'd c'bore for the diameter of the lock washer so I could use it, assuming the c'bore leaves enough wall thickness (~.050"ish?) on the side where material was removed for balancing.Quote:
Originally Posted by anyonebutme
Yeah I'm doing a couterbore. And I shaved the centerbore down flat, the counterbore looked off-centered and I was sort of worried about hood clearance. No lock washer, the bottom of the screw will be peened, no nut falling into my engine. Actually, if you buy an oil cap from 3sx, I would check the screw on the bottom, I was able to get my out with very little effort.Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamVR4
LOL, when I get something in my head I want it done right then and there. I will stay in the garage until 11 at night working, force myself to stop, and spend hours trying to fall asleep because I want to continue working.Quote:
Originally Posted by oohnoo
Thought about chroming it when I starting polishing the first blade, but nothing in my engine bay is chrome. And now I can add compressor wheel to my résumé of polishing. It's a small evo3 16g wheel, won it on ebay for $25. So all together I have $30 in this oil cap. I need something that was slightly smaller than my base.
friggen bushings gave me hell too. Angle grinder + a massive pipewrench did the trick
http://s24.postimg.org/y12v0muxh/IMAG2413.jpg
lowered on ksports. I like the tighter sporty feel of them. don't regret it
http://s16.postimg.org/ss9uukm85/IMAG2417.jpg
Finally got around to washing it after the 1200 mile return trip from the NG. Those who know me and see me taking the car to the car wash after each race event, know how hard it was for me to let it sit for 5 days covered in 2 days of driving mess. I had been working until 10 pm every day since getting back, but I got off work at 8pm on Saturday and, even though it was already past sundown, I was able to get some lights out and hook up the pressure washer. Still needs to tend to the details, but at least it's clean.
I got my center console mostly finished up (stripped & powder-coated the side supports & redid the cigar lighter surround).
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...pslfskygmt.jpg
Been working on the heads for quite a while now. 25 hours in and all the valve areas have been blended to the ports (there are ridges in every port, some worse than others). Started cleaning up the Combustion chambers, will check volume and match between CCs. After that I will finish up with removing the casting flash from the actual ports. Intake is going to be gone over with 80 grit to finish it up and the exhaust will get a nice polished finish.
Then its off to the machine shop for new Valve guides and a decking.
Drove from Sioux Falls, sd to Rapic City, about to go to Mt. Rushmore and then drive towards Yellowstone and The Tetons. Prepare for pics of epicness in my NG thread when I get home (Friday/Saturday)
From the phone.
Found my clutch noise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K1Ev_RYv3z8
One more thing added to a growing list of "concerns which now need to be addressed that I ignored last year so I could enjoy the car" during this "teardown and make it right" year.