Ive got a fmic and functional ac...with a thin radiator. .never had an issue..even with tdo5 manis that have no heatshields...
I have changed the temp setting for the fan to kick on earlier on my rom also..
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Ive got a fmic and functional ac...with a thin radiator. .never had an issue..even with tdo5 manis that have no heatshields...
I have changed the temp setting for the fan to kick on earlier on my rom also..
My stock fwd radiator was starting to lose fins,get clogged, and the temp sensors were not kicking on the fans... at all. Scared the crap out of me a few weeks ago in heavy traffic. Temp gauge just went up and up almost to the red line. Quickly turned the heater onto full blast and that dropped it down to near half way, but I was sweating my balls off lol. With the new radiator and hoses my fans will actually kick on now! Fitment wasnt the best, I had to disconnect some stuff before I could properly seat the radiator. Holds almost 3/4 of a gallon more than the stock one.
its under fan control->Fan Control TempsQuote:
Originally Posted by tfw a-ok
it does make a big difference
That is awesome to know. I've been running a larger radiator for a long time and never tried it the other way.Quote:
Originally Posted by NOMIEZVR4
I think is what really makes a night and day difference. The fans just came on to late and are playing catch up with the heat.
-John
Silly me! - There is a table called FAN CONTROL! LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by tfw a-ok
Not 3/S related, but car related. I put new brakes and pads on the Bimmer...
This will gain almost half of my weight loss from engine swap back:D......70lbs/min in a 30lb bag.....
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2...52810%2529.JPG
With all that weight, you're gonna be slower than an NA with your little 4 cylinder :P
Seriously though, that is a monster. Worried about how close it'll be to your plastic vent at all?
I imagine it'll come on like someone shoved a rocket up the cars ass.
Hood vent has to go:( It cracked at the splice again, so I'm done and reverting back to the original hood or my carbonhood soon.
Lots of factors on how the turbo will be in the low to mid range. Cam choice, cam timing, intake mani, twinscroll mani, etc. The 18cm2 housing is a little larger than most do. Supposedly equivalent to a 1.37 AR vs the 16cm 1.2AR that is more common, but this guy ran 10.16 on a 2.0 and was able to stall a stock converter without nitrous. (took him forever.) 2900 car weight plus driver.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPctx...YsXCQ1TqzP3TnA
I could choke it up with cam and intake choice, combined with the TS mani it could come on fairly early. Or I could let it breath and hope the 2.4, twinscroll magic and restalled converter get it done. The turbine housing is huge but the wheel specs aren't really that big. 6064 in PTE nomenclature.
It will package very well with a BEP .70 AR open T3 housing and a cast ERL t3 manifold. I lose twinscroll goodness but gain ease of packaging and robustness of a cast manifold. Sooo torn it's actually driving me a bit crazy:(
Considering it's just supposed to be a fun toy, honestly I'd say go with the BEP T3 housing and cast manifold. It's not fun if you're constantly having to fix it (see: 6g72TT.) If you're chasing slips though, then the 2.4 and twinscroll might be worth the fuss.Quote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
Pity about the hood vent. I'm still on the fence with what I'll do for mine, likely metal and weld it in, just not sure how well that style would flow with the 2g front end. May look into an Evo style, keep it in the Mitsu family and what not.