I've contemplated switching the whole power steering system over to braided PTFE lined hoses and AN fittings.
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I've contemplated switching the whole power steering system over to braided PTFE lined hoses and AN fittings.
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any particular reason(s)? just looking to pick your brain =bQuote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
PS reservoir is a PITA, and my rubbers are about to expire i think. And if you've got to spend the money to replace the rubber lines anyhow, its not a huge premium over that to go to the AN lines and fittings. Plus I'd like to shrink the reservoir down to relocate it into the wheel well or similar for space purposes and upsize the PS cooler up front.
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I swapped to a PTFE braided line on my GTI... Sooo much nicer (also a lot smaller diameter so more engine bay space!) and will last way longer than the car will.
Indeed, PTFE lines ftw. to relocate PS reservoir, options are basically cut the body around the shock tower and put it inside that frame area or mount it on the other side of the bay where the battery used to be. Washer reservoir has been deleted so the battery will either be lowered in the bay, or relocated to the trunk. Given that I plan to run PTFE lines anyhow, leaning towards doing the passenger side of the bay and then running the PS cooler to a real cooler on the front of the car in front of the AC condenser, probably in a tube and fin style so as not to disrupt the flow or change the pressure much.
I did a little bit more sound deadening in the car yesterday, basically the passenger footwell area, but it was hard to do much because with the rain that meant leaving the doors and stuff shut and the fumes from that glue were insane. Right now I just have the sound and thermal insulation down, contemplating if I can squeeze a closed cell foam over the top of it without effecting fit of the carpet too much..In retrospect, I should've just cut out the large squares in the footwell that were empty space and put closed cell foam in there before welding it back up. Oh well.
Spent time trying to fix leaks on the garage by asphalting the roof but it started raining almost as soon as I finished and I still had 2 leaks. So next weekend I will be doing more asphalting up there, plus new screws for the roof to help hold it down better since a lot of these have come loose over time and the wood underneath is too far gone to save.
Also measured some stuff out..Leaning towards upsizing the radiator (possibly for a dual pass style) while I've got it apart, however with the TD05s, space is already limited so I want to lean the radiator and condenser forwards to give a bit more space, and duct it to vent out the hood. Should completely alleviate any temperature concerns and help keep the engine bay cooler. Could just go with the 3SX dual pass, but I can do it for cheaper by doing my own thing and customizing stuff. If I can't get a decently priced and sized dual pass or single pass, then I will probably go with the 3SX single pass just for the larger capacity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
I was considering installing one of those ps coolers from jeeps like this but longer
http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/...wibble/171.jpg
In other news I installed some new brakes and a drivers side axle after mine took a dump.
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps40zo3vpq.jpg
Also pulled apart my pass side 1G 3000Gt foglight to get some condensation out of it and reseal it. Never seen a pic of the internals so I grabbed a few.
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...psxtwgo7ub.jpg
Made an AEM cold start and hot start results vid.....
Self tuned. AEM series2. 4g64 swap. E85.
Cold start.
I may tweak a little more. Actually want it to not start so fast when cold, so it can build a little oil pressure first. (thanks donnie for the idea.) Idle target slowly starts to drop as it warms which you can hear at the end.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KH6VnfWWkc
Hot start.
Phone ran out of memory so it cut off too soon. It would've showed that the AFR settles in at 14.6-14.8. Start time is right where I want it. I can make it start quicker. (I turned the sync early option off.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KH6VnfWWkc
Haven't spent a ton of time on it since everything tuning related will change very soon...turbo, cams, compression, injectors and maybe intake mani.
Don't be afraid of AEM Series2 3Sers. You can do a base tune on your own and get the drivability nailed for your setup. Then take it to Ray for a good dyno power tune.
Oh, I also bought a bnib 7blade HX40 (69 lb/min) and a used 18cm2 twin scroll housing to go with it.
Got my injectors in a few days ago & finally turned up the boost yesterday. Got to 14psi before the stock clutch started slipping in first so I turned it down to 13. Now I have a heavy vibration during hard accel in first & second, almost feels like it's from rear. Also does it during brake boosting. I'm thinking clutch or the fact that afrs are stupid rich right now. 10:1 at wot lol. So tomorrow it's getting fresh oil and less fuel. Hoping to get this issue solved soon.
Excited to see how that works out for you, even on the 14B honestly was better than I expected. I'll have to take another trip out there once it's done and check it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
Because I'm front mounting my PS and oil coolers, I was leaning towards something like http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/200/259/259-13314.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Bloodlust182
Width: 17-1/2"
Height: 10-1/4"
Depth: 3/4"
Costs: about 50 bucks.
Given how thin this is, I'm not worried about heat effecting the radiator and condenser, especially if I end up upsizing the radiator.
Today I worked on pricing out more AN fittings for the waterneck. Going to try to replace the heater hose fittings with AN fittings with a provisions for a small line to go to the FIAV and make those AN lines, maybe even quick disconnect fittings to quickly remove the TB and plenum without getting coolant everywhere. Will need to figure out a way to braze or weld fittings onto the heater core though, so that requires thought and measurement to be sure. Hesitant to spend money till the machine work is done for the block.
It's much better now. Slowly adding timing and it loves it. When we drove it, negative timing values with anything above 15psi at peak tq and not much below that. Also didn't help having boost cut that we kept hitting every time I breathed on the throttle (had no idea this little guy would keep trying to spike so high.) I've raised my boost cut up to 23psi now. Still haven't done a full 3rd gear pull, but I don't think it will creep above 23. Definitely hits 20 though.Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
It's tuned pretty well below 5k. Haven't had a chance to go above. Good timing numbers below 10psi and it is VERY responsive. 2.4, 9:1, e85 and insta-boost move this 3500lb hog around really well. Really need to restrain myself and get it to my new house before toasting a head gasket or worse and have to tow it there. Keep in mind, this is on a hacked together $500 longblock, including the intake, turbo and all of the accessories. I don't have a ton of faith in it.
Still have a small oil leak that is driving me crazy. If I can find and fix that, I'll give the 14b hell for awhile.