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http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0349.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0351.jpg
Heat exchanger with both 12 inch fans mounted. Will be making a special bracket for mounting these fans, for now, used the zip ties included in the kit for mock-up. Compared this to the OEM radiator. With the fans mounted plus the thickness of the heat exchanger, it's only 2 inches thick.
That's a really nice piece!
Well, I got my first taste of slight defeat in terms of working on this car...
I was test fitting the heat exchanger and a few things came up:
First I took the radiator shroud, horns, and structural piece for hood latch out:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...1/DSC_0367.jpg
Power steering lines running to the front of the car behind the crash bar. I removed this extra length of line and use a brand new line and ran the line straight to the reservoir:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...1/DSC_0370.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...1/DSC_0368.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...1/DSC_0371.jpg
From the steering rack:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...1/DSC_0377.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...1/DSC_0379.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...1/DSC_0380.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...1/DSC_0381.jpg
Ridiculous long hard line gone:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...1/DSC_0382.jpg
So then the next dilemma was getting understanding how the heat exchanger was going to be mounted. I removed the crash bar and started working on the bump strip on the bottom of the front frame member. I fabricated a section of 90 degree aluminum sheet and test mounted it:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...1/DSC_0385.jpg
Then I needed another 90 degree bracket to hold the heat exchanger. The heat exchanger won't fit behind the bumper if it is mounted vertical, so the heat exchanger will need to be mounted diagonally. Fans in the front will pull UP the air and draw it through.
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...1/DSC_0383.jpg
More to come tomorrow.
FYI, that power steering line that runs by the crashbar is a cooler. I'd at least run it through a cheap fin and tube type cooler where there's a little airflow.
I am probably going to replace it with an inexpensive power steering cooler from pep boys. I looked online and it's a pretty small cooler that I can put in the foglights area. For now, it's staying re-routed. The steering rack is leaking anyways so I will need to pull it. Right now, I am just mocking stuff up temporarily and then removing it.Quote:
Originally Posted by B-Man
So some quick updates:
I made the new heat exchanger tray and mounted it to the frame member. I did a quick mockup of how the heat exchanger is going to mount and had a problem with the fans. I believe I mounted them backwards, so I will need to mount them on the other side of the exchanger. Then I ran some water lines where they are going to run and I have a good idea of how it needs to work. Here's some progress:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0387.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0389.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0390.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0391.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0392.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0394.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0395.jpg
Ordered inexpensive 350z exhaust manifolds to test mock up of turbo. More to come.
Ordered Megasquirt II Assembled Kit
would've went aem personally
I thought about it, however, the Megasquirt II is more in line with my budget for this build. Plus the Megasquirt comes with:Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
(1) MS2357-C MegaSquirt-II PCBv3.57 ECU
(1) BIP373 Ignition Module
MOD_x357-12VIN ECU Mod for the LT1 Ignition-- 12V pull-up on the ignition input
MOD_230-IGBT1 Single Ignition Output through IGBT (BIP373 Installed/Enabled)
(1) MSStim22-C MegaSquirt Stimulator version 2.2
(1) MSHarness8 8' Pigtail Wiring Harness
(1) IATwPiggy IAT sensor
(1) CLTIATwPiggy Coolant temperature sensor
(1) 38NPTBung-A Aluminum IAT sensor bung
(1) TuneCable6 Tuning Cable for MegaSquirt EMS
(1) USB-2920 USB Adapter needed for most laptops
(1) decal161 Snazzy DIYAutoTune.com decal
(1) Free T-shirt, if you remember to tell us the size you want in your order comments (S, M, L, XL)
All of this is 1/4th the cost of an AEM setup. Plus I couldn't find an AEM setup that was pinned out correctly for a SOHC harness, so I would have to build out a custom harness, here I have the harness.
makes sense
I guess it wouldn't work to convert to convert to a DOHC type setup and run chrome? I know the ignition would be totally different and the harness is a lot different. I just know you are kinda on your own with megasquirt for us.
I thought about running AEM and getting a harness extension and re-running the pinouts, however, this will be mostly plug and play. There are far less pinouts on the SOHC than the DOHC.
The tuning is the same as AEM on the megasquirt.
You still have to build the other end of the harness :p DIY's harnesses are VERY nice though. If you have any basic MegaSquirt questions, let me know.
Yea I know, but I can take all of the crappy stock wiring out and use the harness.Quote:
Originally Posted by DocWalt
Well I received the 350z manifolds and for the most part for 89 dollars I can't really knock the quality too much... I mean the collector wasn't skillfully made well, but I applaud their effort. It's a good starting point:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0418.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0415.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0414.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0413.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0412.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0411.jpg
Here's the SOHC gasket lined up with exhaust ports of this manifold (gasket is on backwards, but even flipped, runners still line up):
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0420.jpg
The runners would need to be made round again, but nothing major.
How thick is the material on there?
wow those are shitty inside. I would do some porting to be sure you aren't going to have chunks of pipe go through your turbo
304 SSQuote:
Originally Posted by mb3000
They are shitty inside, I will either A. Redo the collector or B. have the material ground down so it isn't so ugly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
304 SS is what they are made of. Is there any way you could stick a caliper on there when you cut off the 350z flange?
They are 16 gauge from my understanding.
Really curious as to how they hold up. They seem to fit perfectly, I seriously considered running them for a while now. Just couldn't get over my fear of them cracking/not holding up. Seems like everyone that has used them only uses them for a short amount of time and then changes it up.
There is a possibility of them not holding up, but I needed something to work with to start getting the turbo placed in the engine bay. I didnt want to spend hundreds of dollars on a manifold set only to hack them up for fitment and then have to spend hundreds again on newly fabricated manifolds. I went this route so I can get a test set and not worry about hacking them up too much during fabbing and once I felt confident of the turbo placement and the manifolds design, then I can send it to a fabricator and have them make a full setup and I will spend the hundreds there.Quote:
Originally Posted by mb3000
Pretty good idea, did you have any place in mind? I know there's a couple of "Internet" shops you can send things like that to, but don't know which one(s) would be best.
Really excited to see what numbers you throw down after it's all said and done. Might have to pick up another SOHC... :bigthumb:
I haven't figured it out yet. I need a local fab guy to help with some of it then I can take the finished mock-up somewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by mb3000
Here we go, this is the place I had in mind.
http://www.stainlessheaders.com/customheaders
Mine on my single held up fine, the only reason they came off is to test the prototype td04's ive been developing in parallel to fabbing my own single kit. I plan to return to single after these have been thoroughly demo'd.
If you wanted to add a level of durability to the unit, weld a support rod to where the runners collect to the corner of the flanging that goes to the cyl head. You can also consider some small form of reinforcement or gussets below the runners to ensure no cracking occurs. Finally welding quenches metal and causes it to pucker around the weld bead, adding surface tension, a fab trick I learned from a street rod fabricator is to peen the weld bead after you're done to relieve surface tension at the weld and reduce the chance of cracking from stress/fatigue at that area
An example of this occurance would be the earlier 3sx td05 headers that cracked at the welds regularly after being ran for awhile. Thin gauge steel with innate surface tension causing a thin spot on already thin guage = no bueno.
I also got into where the collector merges with a pneumatic carbide bit and removed a good 1/8"- 3/16" of ridge from the pipe merge and welding. Lots of turbulence issues you can address there to preserve spoolup and not waste exhaust energy unnecessarily.
Hope some of this helps! Gl it's time consuming, but a fun project!
This is all greek to me, I will have someone else fabricate this setup for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by arm0red1
3sx rear runner welds have no penetration. When I say "no" I mean zero, zip, zilch, none. The welds are basically cosmetic. Just going over them with good penetration and a little filler would prevent a lot of issues.
Well these manifolds are welded through, I can see the penetration. I just need to clean up the collector area.
You've just met, and you're already in bed?Quote:
Originally Posted by Boost4VR4
Slut...:rolleyes:
Lol... not sure how to respond to this, I guess I will respond with picsQuote:
Originally Posted by j2k4
Reserved for pics...
And the really good stuff showed up, now the fun commences!
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0430.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0429.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0428.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0427.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0426.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0425.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0424.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0423.jpg
Do you sleep with all your parts, Kev? :huh:
Looks like it should be fun to setup.
Sure, it gives me good luck! LOL.Quote:
Originally Posted by j2k4
:encouragement::bigthumb:
Engine pics from machinist and builder:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...403_231813.jpg
I already asked about why there are only 12 head studs when there should be 16 as well as if there are included nuts for the head studs since the OEM head studs are basically long bolts and these are a different design. Also the knock sensor that the DOHC engines have has been tapped into the block in basically the same location as the DOHC engines which will be very helpful.
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...403_231912.jpg
Ninja Performance Chromoly Connecting rods are in there and the Wisecos are in there too.
Will be dropping off the heads, valve guides, valve seats and the associated cylinder heads hardware off to machinist for a cleaning and to press in the guides and seats. I will assemble the heads with the new cams and associated valves and hardware.
Found out that everything is well, the other studs are not installed because the dowels are not in place. The hardware is included as well.
Pics aren't the clearest, but looks like a decent cylinder bore finish. Are you going to degree the cams?
Yea I will be degreeing the cams once I get it on my stand.Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
Yea the pics are pretty blurry, I will be bringing my camera to get better pictures.
looked a little closer, damn he had to swiss cheese the counterweights.