1st gen VR4 brake conversion big issues :(

Changed the Master cylinder today aswell as one brake line. Polished the brake line before installation, looks pimp. Black master cyl looks much better too....doesnt stand out.
Managed to nip up the 2 remaining rounded nuts with a 10mm open ender. Tried 3 diff high quality flare nut spanners and they all have the same play. I reckon its 1/10th of a mm but just enough to start to round em.

Not pushing fluid up which is good, Bench bled the master before install and finally bled all calipers. The brakes feel OK. Nothing great just yet, will try em more during the week.
Decided to not change the other brake lines as the steering coloum needs to come out lol. Meh, brakes for now. That can be a job for another day!
Thanks fellas!

dude, best thing I found for those god damn things is vicegrips....fkn tightens those shits down ;(

Yeah had to use vicegrips in the end to get them off. While I was there, replaced the two rear bleeder nipples for rounding aswell.

little tip for bench bleeding master cyl's, since my M/C has 4 ports, I blanked off 3 at a time with the spare bleeder nipples I had and bled one port at a time. makes for easy bench bleeding and a very easy install process!

Okay.
Still problems.
Still sucking in the front of the MC a little bit, no-where near as bad as the original MC.
Could it just be the Hawk HPS pads are REALLY shit and have next to no stopping power when cold? Cause I reckon I could pull up better by cutting a hole in the floor and putting my feet out of it.

on another note, can anyone ONE HUNDRED PERCENT CONFIRM that these are DEFINITELY TWIN TURBO tie rod ends?
2 OUTER Tie Rod End Set For MITSUBISHI 3000GT 91-99 GTO | eBay

Just waiting my bendix pads to arrive and i'll go from there. Hope it's just a pad issue.
I've bled the lines F and rear 675 times
taken the front calipers apart, cleaned all bores and pistons up, re-lubed them up and back together
another MC
could be another faulty MC since it is 2nd hand...eh.....dunno what to do now.

Since all GTOs are AWD and have the same braking system I would assume things like the tie rod ends are the same as well.... Use ASA/CAPS to look up the part number for a TT and for an NA and see if they match. I suspect they will.

I just dont have CAPS.....could you look up the P/N for an N/A GTO? I am positive they are different. the ends of my N/A ones (although for a magna same rack) are longer, and thinner, thus to get them to seat properly in the knuckle, they have to go down further on the tid rod end, squashing the boot to all buggery (grease is now everywhere cause of it) and had to stack up the thread with washers to bring the castle nut up to the holes in the thread!
oh the joys. Meh might just get these ebay ones, will be better then what I have now...

Just checked ASA and ALL GTOs use the same part so go for your life.

If you don't have CAPS [replaced by ASA] I posted instructions on how to get it on here.

http://www.3sgto.org/f2/mitsubishi-a...-usdm-346.html

So hmm.....how long to 'bed' pads in? Ive done about 500k's now, still piss poor braking and still the rotor face is dirty.
Alas, the MC is still pushing up some fluid. There is a good chance of course this MC is buggered too....how hard can this be to diagnose?
Does it need a proportioning valve installed? considering it's just 1 line direct to each caliper from the MC?
sigh.

GTOs all have either a prop valve or ABS so I would say yes you should have one.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GTOJOE

GTOs all have either a prop valve or ABS so I would say yes you should have one.

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Just started thinking that now. Fantastic I can see this chewing up all my money.
Never thought about it but even in the magnas in ABS models which use the twin piston calipers have a prop valve.
SO, next port of call, 2nd hand one ok to use?