there are two styles of brace.
i have the one bill has. ray says that the other brace causes oil flow issues, and its no stronger than this one. obviously i dont know, but i generally trust what ray says
Printable View
there are two styles of brace.
i have the one bill has. ray says that the other brace causes oil flow issues, and its no stronger than this one. obviously i dont know, but i generally trust what ray says
Yeah I broke the pliers or the grinding would be complete! Thanks for the pic, that will help.
It's a brace designed by Milt.
I had to replace the plastic oil diverter thing because it melted. That race was a bitch to get out afterwards also. Mine was welded all the way around instead of three small welds though so I'd say that's a better way to do it. Also I remember somebody having a hard time getting the race all the way back in on a trans that was welded all the way around.
right, i was saying that because it will warp the metal if you have it welded as you say. you CAN weld it all the way around, but you have to do three like i showed, then weld in between them. but even still sometimes, if you make a section of the case TOO rigid, it can do more bad than good. the trans cases are not very strong metal in general, and they have some flex to them. if you take out that flex in just one section to too much of an extreme, it can actually cause premature failure. i havent seen that posted anywhere, but from the classes i have taken in school, that is something that makes sense to me.
You would think the brace blocking off the oil divertor (on the left) would be detrimental to the intermediate bearing-
Got me a IPS light weight flywheel, all steel one! Woot woot, thanks Brett! Needs to be surfaced, but is the first time. Anyone know if they are to be surfaced the same as OEM?
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-u...1484652942.jpg
Got the bell housing prepped, and the brace fitted. Unfortunately I missed the gentleman that was to weld it up today.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3...1839408186.jpg
On to the fuel system prep. Removed the hanger, and tore it down. I lost the instructions? from GZP. So all I had to go off of was a pic saved from their website. After looking at it, and what little space for the return line, I did a little modding to get it all in there. Not sure if this is how he designed it, but it will work.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-R...3717565566.jpg
After cutting the feed tube from the top I drew up where the AN fittings would need to go.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-E...3104132076.jpg
The hanger frame needed some love to fit the return line in.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z...3357015808.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-z...2891023470.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-U...2670446273.jpg
Unfortunately my drill bit index fails me. I need to get a quality index with a much more broad selection. I was going to have the guy that was to weld it up drill it, but as I said earlier I missed him. Two more thing on the shopping list, drill bit index, and a good tap n die set that does not suck.
Oh I also ordered a timing belt tensioning tool from SnapOn. $33, and well worth it vs. the crap/bending pain in the ass 3sx one I have. I do enough TB's with the local 3s'rs that I needed something better. Will post up a pic for those that do not know what I am talking about.
I have also 90% convinced myself to go ahead and do the 1st/2nd synchros while the trans is apart. Where is the cheapest source for them???? Might just check Ninja, he needs more love...
My coater failed again today! Says tomorrow, :MikeB:
Curious about that, i have the newer version that 3sx now stocks...
http://www.3sx.com/store/catalog/tim...ch-08-400l.jpg
...but i got mine off fleabay long ago, and have managed about a dozen TBs with it :wink:
Yeah that's not the 3sx one I was speaking of, but that is very much like the snapon one.