Is there a way to set up an offset in the config menu to allow the graph to read higher psi? say 30 or so? like put in an offset of 13 and then the graph would start at 13psi and max at 30psi.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackStealth
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Is there a way to set up an offset in the config menu to allow the graph to read higher psi? say 30 or so? like put in an offset of 13 and then the graph would start at 13psi and max at 30psi.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackStealth
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Couple more questions as I was playing with this today.
Can you make the minimum duty cycle 0 instead of 10.2? mine wouldn't go below 10.2 so I couldn't get my car to do wastegate pressure.
Can you make it not reset the boost graph when it hits the alarm pressure?
Is there a way to setup the WBO2 to measure lambda instead of AFR?
Also do you sell the pass through evoscan cables or do I look for em on ebay or some where else?
Is there away to turn off the back light so if Im cruisin at night and want to dim it lower I can just push in or something to turn the light off? It used to do this but now it dims.
So what do you guys think of this? Better than Scanmaster (especially in terms of readability for the AFR)? I'm probably switching to a flashable setup and am interested in getting this to replace my Scanmaster.
Essentially yes. Except I have to give you a different 2.22 version to unbrick it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesters Deadd
Yes I can do that. I'll add it to my "to do list".Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesters Deadd
When I read the min/max specification for the solenoid, that's where the 10.2 comes from. Zero is okay, I'll add that feature in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesters Deadd
The "auto reset boost graph feature" only resets after boost falls below 0psi and 5 seconds has passed by and the boost is building up again. Did you want the "auto reset" feature to be on/off?
Is converting AFR to lambda straight forward? If so, then that's an easy request to fulfill.
If you want to datalog with Evoscan on this device, search for "FTDI based USB-2-serial" cables on ebay. This is what I use:
New USB to Serial RS232 Adapter FTDI Chipset Cable | eBay
I'll add the backlight off again. I'll make it like so: full brightness, half brightness, off.
The short coming of the scanmaster was that it was not readable in direct sunlight, and the display was cryptic (you needed a manual to interpret the meaning). The LCD screen fixes both of those problems. The only problem with the LCD screen technology is that is sluggish in cold weather, however I recently learned that I could order the same LCD screen with a heater circuit built in.Quote:
Originally Posted by HLxDrummer
This same device works for the following: All year models Stealths/3000GTs, AEM EMS v1&v2, 1989+ Nissan vehicles, and MegaSquirt v1. (Vipec is currently in development, and MegaSquirt v2).
Ok that may be easier, can you post it on your site when you get a chance? I will deffinently get an upgraded processor.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackStealth
Awesome!Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackStealth
Ok so it would go from 0 then the next step would be 10.2? I noticed the aux input you can put in negative numbers. So I put in -10.3 and turned it on. But I don't know if that would work.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackStealth
It seemed when I hit alarm boost and got the "warning", the little boost graph would never appear. Even though I wouldn't start building boost again. I like the auto reset feature other wise.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackStealth
Yeah its straight forward. I tried to do it in the settings ie: set the min to 0 and the max to 2 and let it do its thing. BUt the setting wouldn't go that low. the only problem it would have then is the lack of athe two decimal places.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackStealth
I have one of those. I'm confused. How does it pass through? It seems like it would replace the obdII to LCDBC cable.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackStealth
YOu are the man. Awesome!Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackStealth
Hmmm interesteing.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackStealth
If I used an obdII y-cable could I hook up evoscan to oone side and the lcd boost controller to the other?
It won't work as only device can talk to the ECU.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesters Deadd
By the way, I made a discovery today with the DB9 serial connectors. Manufacturers are making the pins thinner and as you would expect it, this would lead to connection issues if the cable isn't screwed in, or has some movement. I wasted several hours today after discovering this is the culprit. The way I fixed the issue was to bend the male pin slightly and re-insert the female cable to straighten it out a bit. Doing this to each pin one by one fixed the problem for me. Now the male pins make better contact when they have a 'slight' bend to them.
So those of you that are having disconnect issues, I'd suggest bending the male pins one by one.
Specifically, for OBD2/MUT users they need to focus on pins 4,5,9. And for OBD1 users pins 1,2,3,5.
Also remember as I did not on my first cable that the male numbered pin location is a "mirror" of the female pin location!Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackStealth
I will be having a pin bending party tonight for those that wish to join... (no homo)
I didn't notice your previous reply Jester till now. The datalogging passthrough works like this: The lcdboostcontroller communicates to the ECU and polls regular important stuff like Knock, RPM, etc and the data is buffered into memory. When Evoscan communicates to the lcdboostcontroller, the lcdboostcontroller is pretending to be an ECU and replies back with the buffered data. Any special requests that the lcdboostcontroller doesn't normally buffer is then requested to the real ECU, and the data is sent back to Evoscan. The only special requirement for Evoscan is that the USB-2-serial cable must be FTDI based.