I scraped a Jeep
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I scraped a Jeep
But did you win the race? :huh:Quote:
Originally Posted by DK77
Thats not the IPS kit is it? ive been looking at buying there midpipe/cutout within the next 2 weeks but was wondering if the QTP would scrape on speed bumps or any obstacles. my other fear was that when the e-cutout is closed it would sound like an exhaust leak. how do you like yours so far?Quote:
Originally Posted by terrets
Its not, I got the valve and pipe from Summit Racing. My car is lowered a little and Im sure I would scrape if I went over a speed bump around here. Not to worried about anything else though. Ive only driven one day but I like it for the simple fact I can go from loud as an open downpipe to quiet exhaust in ~5 seconds. I havent been able to differentiate if Ive gotten more power. Maybe one day ill hop on a dyno after the car is tuned. And its not that im worried about the police or anything, its just that my downpipe was making me go deaf from the tone lol. Someday Ill have some pipe bent to have just dual no muffler no cat out the back.
Edit: Im sure if you moved it up between the wheels you wouldnt have to worry much because when going over a bump the whole car would lift.
Damn straight! It's been running off and on in the off season. It's going to an autoX on Sunday, and might make it to Gingerman in may, although I already cancelled F-body Road America trip due to needing more testing time before any big tracks.Quote:
Originally Posted by i3igpete
I got plates for the trailer today....Woo Hoo!!!!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpi...to%202%7E0.JPG
^ That is awesome DrGonzo!
Threw together a mount for my new battery until I decide what to do with it.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d5...IMG_1436-1.jpg
shit is legit blacked out. nice workQuote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
officially got my first engine pulled. I'll post up pics later
I just finished polishing the upper , lower intake and the front valve cover. not a perfect mirror but descent enough , after school going to put everything back together including the front turbo, and any help is welcome.
Fun isnt it? I did my first pull and rebuild last winter.Quote:
Originally Posted by DK77
A while back I bought 3SX center vent gauge plate. It's a total piece of shit. The biggest problem is the slot for the hazard switch that makes mounting it virtually impossible (it's too f'ing big!). Secondary issues are that the plate is actually 2 plates, held together by 2 flat head screws... The holes don't line up so the flat heads sit 'cocked'/angled... It looks terrible. Another secondary issue is that the 'plate' isn't sized quite correctly, so there are gaps on the outside of it when shoved into the dash.
The day that I received it, I ordered 2 more plates from drweldin (3si). He had covered one of them in a 3M CF overlay, but if I didn't like it I bought a bare one too. He sized the slot for the hazard switch exactly as I would have (confirmed prior to purchase)... It allows you to shove the switch in and achieve a tiny bit of interference fit. The only issue is that it's kind of ugly because it forces the switch to stick out away from the plate. drweldin's plate fits the dash better than 3SX's does.
So after looking at it for a bit last night, during lunch today, I modeled a bracket that I'm going to 3D print and use to mount the switch behind the plate. Hopefully I didn't mess up any dimensions ;)
That damn bracket has a lot of features that would have been a total PITA to produce any other way.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...r-4/switch.jpg
Nice Work!!Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamVR4
I just moved mine down to where the active exhaust switch used to be.....LOL I have my SAFC mounted in the vent now.
Man, I don't even care if I have that switch. The problem is, every plate has that slot in it! A plate with 3 holes and no allocation for the switch would have been infinitely simpler.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
Hopefully it fits nice and tightly like I want. I was planning to use 3M DP420 to adhere the printed plastic to the back of the aluminum plate. I'll use sand paper to abrade the surface and alcohol to clean it. I'm open to any other suggestions though.
I got 3sx stereo/3 gauge plate a while back. The stereo cutout is not a din slot by any means. You install your stereo stock and remove the trim ring. The plate goes over the radio which is fucking worthless if you have a flip down face head unit cause you can't open/drop the face then....... I'm glint to cut mine out to din slot size one day and install the stereo as it should be.
Mine fit pretty well, have a flip down face, too. Works fine?Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk
Came from UPS today :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...-26-25_251.jpg
Drove it around the block, pissing off the neighbors.
/likeQuote:
Originally Posted by anyonebutme
Every time I look at your sig I think you've cut a huge Ram Air Duct into the hood. Looking twice it's the reflection off the house shutter in the background...Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver
another 15 miles on the new setup. No major issues this ride.
I bought a new welder. I have a huge hulking beast of a 220 volt mig welder. It must be from the 80s and over 200 AMP for sure. I've been having some wire feed problems and the thing is just major overkill for the little bit of welding I do anyway. I did a bunch of research and decided I wanted a 110 volt welder. I'm not the type of person to by disposable tools, so I was looking at the major brands, Miller, Lincoln, and Hobat.
The millermatic 140 is about $700 and would be great, but that was just more than I wanted to spend.
The lincoln pro mig 140 seems to be a good machine and I could get it locally for $529 at lowes and probably get a 10% coupon on top of that. The only thing that worried me about this is that there were several reviews with DOA units and poor customer service.
The hobart handler 140 had some of the most positive reviews I'd ever seen on anything. As near to 5/5 stars as you could get and something like 576 people our of 579 would recommend it to a friend. the price was $499 at northern tools.
Hobart and lincoln make some smaller welders as well. IN particular the hobart handler 125 and the autoarc 130 seem like good units. By the time you added the hose kit and 8 inch spool adapter to it thought it was approching $380. For the money and the most power out of a 110 volt welder I finally decided to get the hobart handler 140. I bought a $50 coupon off of ebay for $7 and got the hobart for $449 shipped.
pretty happy and I'm excited to have a welder that is so portable and I can save some space in my garage. It will weld 3/16" steel on mig wire and 1/4" with flux core. It can also handle .035 wire, while the smaller units could only use .030. I think it will be a great fit. Really the best part is that with a heavy extension cord I can go anywhere with this thing. It is not that easy to drag a 220 volt cord heavy enough to not have a ton of voltage drop.
You can see it here: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6073_200306073
It comes with a free helmet, beanie, and gloves. I'm sure the helmet is worthless, but it'll be useful if I want to teach someone how to weld and just need an observer helment. A extra beanie and gloves never hurts either.
I have a Hobart 210, love it.
Attachment 4020
Fun with brakes!
Installed my 60mm oil temp gauge below my single din radio and converted my dual din trim to a single din in the process. Then wrapped in in 3M 421 Carbon fiber wrap to make it look "ok"
Bought another set of turbos for it
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...24002330_n.jpg
Nice! Going to do the same with mine once I get the steelbraided brakelines and brakefluid I just ordered. Think I will go with green or blue calipers for my red car though. Makes a nice contrast. Did you prepare your calipers with sandpaper before you painted them or did you just clean them before?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimvr4
http://i.imgur.com/qaJK1.jpg
Here's some ebay candy that just arrived that will also go into my car shortly once the plenum and throttlebody gaskets arrives :)
plugs and 10mm vms wires was just 125$ shipped and breakboot and handbreak leather was just 28$ shipped. Will prolly be abit cheaper for americans though because of shipping is cheaper than to Sweden.
I originally did them 8 years ago so this is actually a repaint to clean them up and get them perfect again. I also replaced all the lines with Goodridge and have a couple of bottles of Motul 600. I'm waiting on new rear shoes, rear brake shims (3SX says they are discontinued - WRONG), and a Master Cylinder rebuild kit. I decided to overhaul the master since I already have the system drained and the MC has never been rebuilt. Here's the original writeup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ange
Powder Coated Calipers
Oh, and on a red car I would SERIOUSLY consider yellow calipers like the shade that Porsche has on their ceramics for the turbo 911.
11 minutes of pure bordom on the way to alignment shop:
Contour | Stories | camera position test 1
Not worth my time to edit it and put the interesting parts together.
No wipers, huh?
The worst is when the inside of the car fogs up like crazy in the rain... The only draw back to no AC/heat ;)
bilge fan and duct from trans tunnel takes care of that. I actually do have wipers, but the switch wasn't mounted yet. Points of interest is idle at 4:15+, how bumpy my shitty street is, and my fat ass can't reach the camera mounted on hatch glass from the front seat, lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamVR4
Was your transmission like super hard to get into any gear for a while? I know you said it was notchy, but damn for like 3 days it didn't want to shift at ALL. Seems to be loosening up though.
Ha, awesome. I did notice how stiff your suspension looked.Quote:
Originally Posted by anyonebutme
Nope, just notchy.Quote:
Originally Posted by anyonebutme
You can see me fighting the transmission in the video.....suspension sucks, it's on my redo list. Does it's job on the track, though.Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamVR4
damn my used low mile transmission was tight and notchy. It was from a jdm clip with low miles, but I'm sure it sat dry for a long time. Seems to be loosening up, but it really felt pissed at first. I didn't know it took that long for the fluid to resoak the syncros or whatever the hell is going on. Maybe the new clutch was dragging slightly at first, but it doesn't now.
totally forgot to post useless alignment numbers:
LF camber: -2.8
FR camber: -2.7
LF Caster: 6.7 (ohhhhyea)
RF Caster: 6.9 (ohhhhyea)
toe: 0
LR camber: -2.4 (lolz)
RR camber: -3.2 (lolz)
toe: 0
With this information and what I've seen during the subframe install, it's proven that there IS a length difference between 92-93 and 94+ rear upper control arms, and the 2G arms are in fact a bit longer and why I was able to get 2G cars back in spec when lowered somewhat while my 1G ran out of adjustment with any lowering. Not like it matters since everyone has adjustables, but it was worth it to find out.
Good info tho
I printed 2 of the brackets, melted the support wax off of them, abraded the bonding surfaces, used a Sharpie to "paint" the bracket where it might just barely be visible through the plate, then epoxied it into place using shims and calipers to confirm proper positioning in the slot. The hazard switch fit tightly into the bracket by design. If the hazard switch ever has to come off for any reason, it will not be fun.
Finally got my stealth back from paint. Had to use my old 1g vr4 bumper, forgot how much different the headlight buckets are. Thinking I may put some Lat42 snake eye deletes on it.
Re-painted it everyones favorite green, but with satin black headlights, roof, and trunk lid. Oh and no black mustache anymore. Sorry for the poor pics, will get better ones once I get it all back together.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t/DSCN0318.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t/DSCN0320.jpg
My son finally found time to learn to drive a stick shift. Spent 2 hours driving around in the Stealth. Good times.
I ended up replacing some vacuum caps on the Stealth, swapped out a few couplers that were very thin 3-ply instead of a thicker ply silicone, swapped BOVs, and put a charger on it since I haven't moved it in a month.
went drifting:
http://www.3sgto.org/f98/bscc-4-22-a...tml#post164789