Thought about randomly going to the track for some street tire fun but opted to wait until a weeknight test n tune when it's not 90+ deg @ 10 pm.
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Thought about randomly going to the track for some street tire fun but opted to wait until a weeknight test n tune when it's not 90+ deg @ 10 pm.
Great info. Are you copying Chris' recipe?Quote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9...-no/image.jpeg
Wow, so it just rides on those pins as your rotate it by hand? I had no idea you could avoid using a mill. What'd that tool cost you and how long did cutting each groove take? Did you notice the cutting tool wear out? Did the pins it rides damage the surface? (not that it would matter)
Isky makes that tool, and I have been dying for either me, or someone I know to give it a shot. I may be buying one now. You can also rent it from them for under $100.
LOL. Very true. Unfortunately, hard to enjoy it on wastegate boost:DQuote:
Originally Posted by donniekak
Nope, copying DSM recipe that donnie has pointed me to. Chris is copper wire with MLS gasket. I am doing SS wire with composite gasket. The SS wire is positioned in the middle of the fire ring of the gasket. I have already done this on my first build, which held 25psi and overheating that warped my block and heads, but no failure of gasket and I attribute that to oring. (machine shop cut the grooves for us on that build)Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamVR4
As donnie said. Isky tool. I ordered from Summit for $330. Comes with copper wire so also ordered SS wire from summit. It cuts easy and no dulling of tool after 6 cylinders. I am disappointed with my technique which caused me to not have a perfectly even groove depth. In order to get it to cut I had to put a little angle on tool to get it to "bite" and cut. Unfortunately, that also lifted it off the pins. I wonder if playing with the angle of the blade (limited flexibility in angling it) would have got it to bite with keeping the tool level.Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamVR4
No damage to deck surface from pins. It did take a little off my hone in the top of the bores, so if you really care, hone after oringing. Spent almost as much time setting up the depth and width as actual cutting. Isky recommends cutting .025 first on all bores then come back for a final pass .005 deeper. Good recommendation because my target of .025 actually got me deeper on the first pass, so if I had targeted my final depth, I would have overshot.
Installed my Sake Bomb Garage bi-xenon setup. Not a 3/S but..deal with it.
Here are my install pics. Didnt take step by step but took a few.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a48...ps06032434.jpg
Buckets trimmed and lights fitted.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a48...psa51495eb.jpg
The harness will fit across the inside of the rebar along the front of the bumper.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a48...ps3aeb059c.jpg
The ballasts fit nicely under the turn signals on the rebar. These arent final mounted in the pic, but shows where i fitted them.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a48...ps7bf705e6.jpg
And all buttoned up and ready to get aimed and go for a drive.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a48...psb14f2229.jpg
I can see!!!
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a48...ps8319abcd.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a48...ps3aa39dd7.jpg
Jason
Stripped out the back half of the interior. Tomorrow will tackle the front half of the interior.
Heads on and A1 studs torqued down. Several steps. Started at 35 and retorqued several times letting gasket settle for 15-30mins between retorque. Then 70. Then 110. Sweating now. Harbor freight engine stand bends under the load:D
That seems tough to overcome. I wonder if you could have used a giant c-clamp (haha) or a press to apply the downward force so all you had to do with your hands was turn it. Probably not. Spring loading the cutting tool could have allowed you to get the pins flush, but would have really increased the cutting time... huh. I guess I'm glad I'm going with Ray's fix and A1 studs. How much did having the grooves machined cost you last time?Quote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
Wow, that intake duct is nice. I feel blind in my VR4, so this is on the never ending to-do list. Posts about your RX7 are ALWAYS appreciated!!Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonY
$160 but I moved and trying to find decent machine shops. Already crossed one off my list when they didn't get anywhere close to the RA needed for MLS even though they assured me they could; which is one reason why I am oringing a stock bottom end.... (Lesson learned: ask to see a head next time!) I believe I did find a good shop now but had already ordered the isky tool.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y...25282%2529.JPG
It's also now timed and cams degreed. Stock cams, resurfaced block and heads. Ended up at FRONT: EXH -1.5*, INT -1.0*. REAR: EXH 0.0*, -0.5*
Also replaced PS pump and deleted the PS "cooler" hardline. Having second thoughts on putting it all together this week....Trying to decide if I send the trans out for a refresh first. Last few times I had the engine out, the trans fluid was darker than I would think it should be with so few miles in between.
edit: before anybody comments on the fram filter, it's just a dust cover; I don't use them.