Post a recent picture of your car

Lol well your work has to be better than dents and peeling clearcoat :sad:

funny you should say that....that is exactly what i had to rectify on this. whats weird is that all the body except hood and roof were clear coated why didn't they do the hood and roof when they resprayed the car?

Yeah that's a good question. Why skimp out when you're going to all the work to fix it anyway. Any tips you can give me on fixing the clearcoat? Paint is perfect otherwise, would it be ok to wetsand around the peeling areas and respray some clear? Really don't have the funds to have the entire car stripped and painted again. I can probably afford having the rear quarter resprayed and color matched since it's gonna need some major work to fix the dent I have there...otherwise body is in great shape as well as paint.

the only problem you have with wet sanding back the peeling clear is you will end up with a dip in the finish and the old clear might start to peel taking the new with it, also the base coat (color coat) is usually only 2 layers thick so you would sand through to primer before you sand back the clear. the only real way of doing it is to take it right back all over that panel and start again.

once the clear starts to fail on the base coat its like a chain reaction. usually caused because its not been done right first time round. rule of thumb is that the clear is put on 45 mins max of the last color coat and there should be 30 min max windows between coats from the primer to final coat before clear. all this keeps the paint coats in perfect bond with each other, clear coating late or painting late from primer coat will cause the paint to not key to its lower coat. this is what causes clear to lift and peel away.

Yeah I was worried about the dip and sanding right through the base coats. Hmm well maybe I'll have to buy some paint and paint it myself. Any good place to get OEM paint, or it'd probably be best to take it down and have it color matched and mixed up..

your asking a brit this? lol i have no clue where you would get paint from there mate. but if its the original color then just give the paint code to whoever supplies and ask for original shade, is it one panel or a couple?

i got 1/2 litre that done two fenders one door a hatch and spoiler and 1 and 1/4 rear 1/4's then you would need clear coat and hardener. 1 litre would do for clear. i think if you convert the measures over.....

1 quart of base coat and 2 quarts of clear and a quart of hardener i think? don't hold me to that. if your unsure get more than you need like add a quart to the measures. you will also need primer and thinner for cleaning stuff with later just std thinner will do it.

Yeah I painted my old DSM a few months back, but let my buddy spray it since I had never done it before. I did all the prep work tho since I had experience on that atleast. Clearcoat really isn't bad. It's peeling on the hood blisters as well as passenger front fender and getting oxidized on the roof a bit. Might just have to save up for colormatched paint and make a project of doing the bodywork all at once since I wanna fill the hole in the hatch when I go 99 wing later on.

why color is your beasty sounds red, R38 monza by any chance?

Actually it's silver, but it's my own damn fault that the clearcoat is in such poor shape. I have neglected giving the car it's regular baths and waxings since I was doing a complete overhaul and new engine and everything. I think all the greasy hands on the fenders ate through the clearcoat since that's where it's the worst. The rest is just sun oxidation from not waxing it enough and keeping it clean. :sad:

that's why i'd like to get something better than factory clear-coat when i get mine painted. something that requires practically zero maintenance.