what kind of speakers are you putting in? 6.75" are the best fit, imho...but you may have to put some spacers in there so they'll clear the retracted window.
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what kind of speakers are you putting in? 6.75" are the best fit, imho...but you may have to put some spacers in there so they'll clear the retracted window.
6.5" rockford fosgate prime's.
not top of the line or anything, but good enough for me and got a great deal on them, so this'll work for now
6.75 does fit best and usually line up with the original holes, but there's not much of a selection in that size
got the drivers door done, didn't even start on the passenger side yet
http://i53.tinypic.com/ab5ch5.jpg
bypassing the stock harness, at least for the speakers
http://i52.tinypic.com/6h3wv4.jpg
perfect size holes in the door connector and just poked a small hole in the grommet going under dash
loom obviously not big enough, will redo that later
this is just temporary as i'm missing the leather insert for this side
i suck at interior work, lol
http://i55.tinypic.com/16i606c.jpg
got my ac controls installed yesterday
tested and everything works great, just need to flush my ac lines really good and recharge
haven't tested the new compressor out yet. i'm hoping for some nice cold air all summer tho
both rubber door to window trim pieces are done
door panels done on both sides
still gotta finish up the console and glovebox and get my stereo in
aside from interior, here's the more important stuff left:
o2 bung welded in and new o2 sensor installed
new slave cylinder
new axles and seals
after i put a few more miles on it, gear oil change, this time with synchromesh
ac flush and recharge, and still need to do new orings on firewall
low temp thermostat
registration, taxes, inspection and all that, so i can legally drive this thing
and repair the ps sideskirt clips and remount it
Like I told you yesterday you can use my AC stuff to flush it. I still have the gear oil too you can have
thanks, i may take u up on that
on the sideskirt i was only able to salvage one of the push clips and added a screw in the wheelwell
it's not perfect, but good enough for now
http://i53.tinypic.com/psr5w.jpg
here's the tear in the bumper
was wondering if there is a way to mend it back together
http://i53.tinypic.com/2624m54.jpg
also, fixed that shifter safety cable problem
on the bottom of the ignition, u just unscrew the white plastic cover and it pretty much falls out
http://i54.tinypic.com/syv5t4.jpg
Remember folks, Fibreglass does not stick to plastic! your only real option that wont waste your time is just get either another bumper, or get it repaired like above, with urethane or the like
i'm not going to spend more than a few $ on the repair if i even bother
getting a 99 front before the years over :)
the upside to having it plastic-welded is that you can re-sculpt it while you're at it. :)
i'd ask around on price. if you've already got the bumper pulled, it really doesn't take THAT much to get it welded; especially if it's not a gaping hole or anything. you're really just melting the two edges back together and finish sanding it.
thanks for the info i'll look into it. it's about a 9 inch tear and that whole area under the tear has some pretty good wrinkles.
got the 170* thermostat in
took it for a drive, still seems way too hot under the hood to me, although my guage doesn't ever touch halfway
going out of town for a few days, so that means i have to somehow find time to finish all that other stuff next week
and try to make arrangements for someone to room with and someone to follow up
someone's gotta be passing through nc... no replies in my post for it though
dunno if they're all going or not, i'll check
me and suthnr are only names on registration list from nc :(
not a whole lot done today
finished up complete ac system flush today, all new orings also. will charge it up tomorrow and see how it holds
anyone know if we have are supposed to have an orifice tube or some kind of filter somewhere? i didn't run across anything
drained and capped off heater core. it's being bypassed for now
installed new slave cylinder and bled lines. feels a little stiffer now
think i need to adjust the pedal again tho
well, put 24oz in and compressor won't kick on
found a blown 20amp fuse, but that was for the condensor fan i think
replacing that didn't help
quite a few things to test now
no ac will suck
good news, the o2 bung is only going to cost about $30 installed
hopefully get that done today or tomorrow
didn't think that's what it did exactly
it is plugged in tho
some of my parts got mixed up, but is the same part# as the other ones i have
i could try another in case somehow this one is randomly bad
i'm leaning towards bad connection on the clutch wire tho
got the o2 bung and sensor in. now just have to put the downpipe back on and fish the wire through the floor.
http://i53.tinypic.com/a9ldnl.jpg
while waiting on the downpipe to get done i went ahead and drained the gear oil and pulled the old axle apart.
inner axle wasn't too bad to get off and it slid on to the new axle fairly easy
http://i53.tinypic.com/2w6ctjb.jpg
before i put it back in i'm going to replace the axle seal. hopefully i have the right one
also need to install the oil pressure sender
well, not much progress today
got the axle seal in at least
old one came out fairly easy with a plastic prybar
put some oil on the new one and it wasn't too bad to get in
almost forgot about the broken lug nut stud
they're usually fairly easy to replace
not this time, thanks to this abs ring
broken lug stud
http://i54.tinypic.com/14t3a7c.jpg
back of knuckle
http://i54.tinypic.com/28tdz5k.jpg
abs ring is all kinds of iin the way
and i'm having a hard time getting the bearing out
any help with this would be appreciated
i'm trying to just get a whole knuckle and control arm from a local guy
seems like the easiest option for now
if u look closely, you can see my ball joint is also shot
Ring around tyre joints and or local mechanics and see what the going rate is (if anyone knows how to get it out)
But hey, good excuse for new lower control arms! :D
waiting to see when i can get the control arm/knuckle/hub from this guy
i'm cutting time so close, it's not even funny
guess as soon as i can get some free time, while i'm waiting, i should work on this
http://i54.tinypic.com/5ygoe9.jpg
having a hard time getting that plug out so i can get the oil pressure sender installed
is it just me, or is the oil pressure switch in the wrong hole?
or does it not matter which goes where?
and if so, and i can't get this plug out, which of the 2 would you prefer? i'm thinking the guage
then i still need to put the axle in, it's ready and should be fairly easy, new axle seal is already in
fill up trans with synchromesh
downpipe on and route o2 through floor, still have to find the right hole, think it's behind the heatshield
figure out why my ac compressor clutch isn't engaging
test out the radiator fan
secure the battery
find a helmet
probably going to need an alignment
registration/taxes/inspection
hopefully squeeze in a good 2 hour test drive somewhere
and also if i don't get my stereo in, i'm gonna be bored out of my mind on the road lol
last minute oil change, coolant flush, gas up and go
i really hope that's it, because i don't know if i can handle anything else :(
nah mate it's in the right hole! I used an allen key type fitting in a 1/2" socket, in which i attached a 1/2" breaker bar to it and it came out. It's VERY stubborn to say the least.
Just me or the cable going to your oil pressure switch now capable of running a small amplifier? look thick as!
i did the same thing to get that plug out, but sprayed some acetone/atf on it 1st
thought i broke something when it finally popped and broke free
the switch wasn't in it's normal spot. it's typically on the inside and gauge sender is on the outside. don't think it matters tho
but guage might get a better reading being right on the oil pump
its just u, lol. i reloomed, heatshrinked, and retaped a lot of the harness
you're just seeing heatshrink and tape. i did everything in red, so it's easier to see.
i had everything out, so figured y not
few things i can cross off the list
axle is in
downpipe back on
o2 sensor installed and connected, finally...
synchromesh in the trans
this whole broken lug stud deal is killing me. if i can that taken care of before the weekend is over, i should be good
ac is tedious, but usually simple problems
thing that's getting me is the ac light isn't flashing. usually it flashes when something isn't working
on top of the broken lug stud, here's some of my other mess
http://i54.tinypic.com/33trtxu.jpg
guess i didn't tighten the oil pressure switch enough, it's got a good leak going on
got lucky and found a used control arm/knuckle/hub for only $50
everything about it was in better condition than my old one
no broken stud, no torn ball joint boot, no play in the hub
anyway it's in for the most part
got dark on me, so no more work or pics tonight
Keep it up man! You are almost there.
Yay, 5 lug studs
http://i53.tinypic.com/105o2ok.jpg
but, now i think i need a new tie rod end :(
and a new drain pan, because mine grew wings and flew away last night
and tightening didn't work, still leaking
i'm about to just do without the oil pressure guage cap that hole off again
Bahhahahahaah you poor bastard, always something!
In regards to the oil pressure fitting, did you use thread tape on it? Every oil fitting i use I ALWAYS ALWAYS use thread tape and have never had one leak.
Also, if screwing into the oil pump, be careful not to over tighten it :D or else you'll split the oil pump casing and have to change an oil pump just like me :D
i used teflon tape. that's what it looked like was on the threads when i pulled from the other block
ok, i'm done messing around. capping that hole back off. the oem guages or sender's aren't that reliable anyway. and a new sender is like $50
bout to go pick one of these up. not bad for $10 and comes with everything except the T, which i already have.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcs...6_pri_larg.jpg
Would you sell the torque converter separately or are you selling the whole trans in one piece?
doesn't matter to me
found a transmission drain plug that seems to be a perfect fit for capping off the oil pressure switch sensor hole
added a little rtv and tightened it nice and snug. much easier with a hex head bolt instead of a recessed allen head bolt
i will be soooo pissed if it leaks
moved the oil pressure switch to the hole on the oil pump
added the T and installed the new oil pressure guage
installed the new tie rod end
now just need to add some oil and start her up and cross my fingers and hope there are no leaks
also, got plates on the car
insured, legal, don't need an inspection til june 2012
ready to rock :)
still leaking, but much less than before, so i'm trying again
pulled that plug and cleaned everything with brake cleaner
the crush washer i had on was literally crushed lol
this time i used a copper washer and heavily coated the drain plug in black rtv
gonna let it sit at least 24 hours before putting oil back in the engine and see what happens
if no leaks this time, i owe thanks again to chris from ninjaperformance
if it does somehow still leak, i'm going to have to weld it shut or something
i feel much more positive it will work this time tho
also, i tested the ac compressor clutch
it definitely works when applying power directly to it
this is a reman'd compressor, and i forgot that it was heavily painted, to include the pins for the 2 sensors on the compressor
i hit them really good with a wire brush and reconnected them
wish i would have thought of this before i put everything together
anyway, worst case scenario, i can wire a switch directly to the clutch and i will have ac, but i'm really hoping what cleaning those connectors fixed it
if anyone has any other ideas why the compressor clutch wouldn't engage, please chime in
i'm going to be optimistic and say i think i have it all figured out
sucks i have to wait til wednesday morning to test the oil leak and ac
but i guess while i'm waiting i can wire up the stereo, finish up interior and give her a good wash, and be packing :)
crushed crush washer
http://i51.tinypic.com/9liatv.jpg
i'm pretty sure this is why it was leaking last time, even without any sealant
was a very slow drip, but i'm not having that
Are you here yet?
hopefully sometime tomorrow afternoon/evening
went to a shop today for that leak because i go tired of messing with it
was doing great for about 20 minutes, then it started a slow leak again
so, i ended up redoing it again. i think this is the 5th or 6th time now.
using permatex right stuff ultra gray this time and torqued the shit out of that bolt
letting it dry for several hours even though the tube says 1 minute
it better work at $30 per tube
this will be the last time i do this. if it fails this time, i'm going to get that hole welded shut
i'm so kicking myself in the ass for ever pulling that plug to begin with
also, think the reman'd compressor i installed has bad sensors
only other thing i can think of unless there's something wrong with wiring
also, it appears to be leaking
i swear everything seems like garbage these days
i don't care if it's 10 x more expensive i'm going to stick with only new parts with a warranty
Good job overall i was trying to get ahold of you on the way home from work . finally got a text from you after id already seen the wife so you know i was stuck in the house for the night. i you working on car tonight i wanna stop by and check you out.
wow, apparently my car and the weather really don't want me to go :(
my oil leak is somehow worse today
if not for this ridiculous weather, i'd at least have a 1% possibility in finding some miraculous way to get this thing fixed and be on the road in
i was supposed to have left 8 hours ago
i'm really hating myself right now...
all this because i just had to have the stock oil guage
there's at least 5 routes i could've taken and still had an oil guage, but somehow i took the worst possible one
anyone have a time machine i can borrow?
if i could just go back 1 week, and leave that one bolt alone...
i'm absolutely not going to make it to indy. was supposed to have been there 7 hours ago anyway
today was fun...
was desperately trying to get this thing on the road
i crammed in a good 2 days worth of work
got pretty much everything done except for the oil leak
it's leaking just as bad as yesterday :(
oh and i also kinda got hit by lightning
that was interesting
i think the charge has finally worn off, so i'm gonna go pass out
for anyone that is ever tempted to remove anything like this.... DON'T!
http://i53.tinypic.com/v8215c.jpg
here's why
http://i52.tinypic.com/15fheg8.jpg
oh and don't ever touch anything metal during a thunderstorm, especially if you're soaking wet, it might bite
Thats not a hairline crack i see above it is it :S or is that just a casting imperfection in the metal?
Man I feel so sorry for you, nothing pisses a home mechanic off MORE then when he touches something that didn't need to be originally touched, and has now fucked it.
god I know the feeling all too well!
Happens all the time to even the best mechanics. Don't get too worked up over it.
its a crack :(
so now what?