Those pillars look nice its not easy to wrap into a small tweeter hole like that
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Those pillars look nice its not easy to wrap into a small tweeter hole like that
Got what will probably be the most difficult trim panel measured, cut, coated and installed.
http://i.imgur.com/BbEH6OF.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/WPJv6Vb.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/gvKmzkB.jpg
Man! that looks terrific Steve!
Did you get the mud flaps installed?
Very meticulous Steve :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fnloud
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimvr4
The two of you have that in common.
Regular people say "anal", btw. :p
I would LOVE to do a system for a Spyder
Not a lot of room in the back when the top is down.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fnloud
I have seen one Paul, kinda remember what room there is around the top computer right behind the seat, it wouldn't be a heavy bass system, but there are now 6.5" and 5.25" subwoofers, and their xmax (cone travel) trumps 10's and 12's from the 90's.
There's the slot where the CD changer is now (mine is disconnected). This and the top computer sit along side the pumps along a brace that connects the shock towers. No real space there.
The spare tire area is an option but sound quality would suck with the top down. What I've seen done is rear seat modification or removal and install the system in the rear seat area.
Got a plan to do that, Jim - Steve has helped me dope it out, so he can brief you. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimvr4
I would focus on getting the most low end out of a woofer placed in the door, and then sound deaden and seal off the door as best as possible to get that audible bottom end to be louder, may be even use the rear speaker location to house a pair of 5.25" subs, recess them so the surround would not hit the grill's backside.
Then make the housing bigger with fiberglassing, again this probably wouldn't be teeth shacking bass, but should sound very nice.
Interesting ideas :)
Their rear 6x9 location presents a big challenge as the depth is compromised by the pistons for the top mechanism. People have discovered that many aftermarket 6x9 can't fit the depth. Might be a better choice to get some Q panels and modify them to remove the grills and figure an attractive way to mount the subs.
I could also see replacing the grill with a properly made piece that would allow you to surface mount a sub, maybe even step it up to an 8" then
Was able to load the driver's subwoofer box today:
http://i.imgur.com/hlsLPGk.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/hSibaoK.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/FnBUekU.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/YFTmyxV.jpg
Used Bassboxpro6 to design the box. Vb is .402 FT3 tuned to 42.87Hz resulted in a flat output that tapers off like a sealed enclosure.
http://i.imgur.com/ZnfTHdg.jpg
When are you gonna drop it in, Steve?
Was thinking today, but the controller for the led lighting I want to use will be mounted in there, so it may get held up waiting for that.
Love how your new subs look like rims :)
I have the driver's side installed, dark photo's but wanted to share, will get better ones tomorrow:
http://i.imgur.com/vD8vcpI.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qYGgcKa.jpg
Need to clean up the panels from sanding the pieces in attempt to get a perfect fit.
Looking great cuz!!
Thanks, hoping to get the passenger side done before the weather gets uber cold.
Better lighting, better pictures, cleaned a lil better too
http://i.imgur.com/5s3b080.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/aOSFq30.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/EtZwSEw.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/01IGWgG.jpg
Still gonna have good, usable space, too.
Well done, sir. :)
That "good, useable space" is where two amps and two or three sound processors are going. the only useable space will be the rear seats folded down, but that is enough for a weekend get a way with the Mrs. ;)
Spent some time carefully routing speaker wire while labeling it so when the amps get installed it is just a matter of putting holes in the amp board for the wires to come up through. I also have speaker pins, cable pants and colored heat shrink to make the ends of the wire clean and color coded.
http://i.imgur.com/RqIjFHQ.jpg
Also weighed a loaded sub box, 32LBS so two boxes 64 LBS, willing to bet that amp rack, wiring, disto blocks, and trim panels are another 32LBS and the amps are 7.3LBS each,
whole sound system will be around 125LBS....not bad for trying to keep it light.
KLEEN!!
Looks great, Steve - makes me wanna do some of that. :wink:
Took the time to secure my sub boxes before getting all the trim installed today:
http://i.imgur.com/GfkFrLQ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/HN4Ld6m.jpg
Then got all my trim pieces installed:
http://i.imgur.com/El9jt1P.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/n5bLmrC.jpg
The only thing left to go is extend the false floor to the seat backs and add a dividing wall to separate the amp area from the rest of the space:
http://i.imgur.com/FhwFAhl.jpg
^^That's why we call you GU^^ :D
Today I ordered my amplifiers, they should be available in about a week. What I did today was reminiscent to Kindergarten...I shall call this work done today "Glue, Sticks, and Things". Working on the final false floor piece that will meet up to the rear seat backs. Lots of contours here:
Centered a rectangle board the proper depth
http://i.imgur.com/06jtUs1.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Yz1pRu0.jpg
Started gluing wooden skewers to the ends to get the contour shape:
http://i.imgur.com/zbX1WlO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zbX1WlO.jpg
Once that dries, I will do the other side, once that dries I will have a template that I can cut the final board.
Ran the extra pair of speaker wire to go full active in the front stage of the sound system and secured them to the floor of the car laying flat so that the bump up in the carpet is minimal.
http://i.imgur.com/lrXrJB5.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/r3sC0D5.jpg
Added two more anchor points for the rear false floor to attach to the car, and installed T-nuts for securing the front false floor to the rear false floor.
http://i.imgur.com/QOSDSwY.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GY61FUR.jpg
Carpeted the front false floor and added speaker gasket to the edge to eliminate the chance of squeaks from the shifting of the car, and in process of finishing up the front bulkhead.
http://i.imgur.com/9FkcDHg.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GsgSfZu.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/sFGikQs.jpg
I am open to popular opinion, do I carpet the face or Line-X? Being that the seat backs are carpet that would make the whole area carpet, or being that everything from the floor up is plastic Line-X would work too, so let me know what you think.
I'm kind of on the fence about the carpet/line-x on the face of that panel. I would probably do carpet.
BTW I really like your wire routing, especially the way you took the time to flatten the cables out properly. Also, the way you have the guides for the two fat power cables built into the "shelf" piece... Sick :)
Also need to share the back of this is going to be line-X coated, because everything behind this bulkhead is Line-X coated, just thinking that with the front carpet might be the better covering. There will also be an opening cut out to flush mount a DVD changer in the center too.
I vote Line-x for consistency's sake
Carpet. :wink:
Nate just so you know the back side of this will be Line-X coated.Quote:
Originally Posted by futurevr4man
While I am waiting for my last amp to come in I made a schematic of the whole sound system.
http://i.imgur.com/zPNND5k.png
Quite impressive.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fnloud
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
Jesus :D Big alternator and battery needed to power all that I'm guessing.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fnloud
Atleast I finally upgraded from my old busted speakers. Just went with smaller lightweight speakers(neodymium magnets), still with better output and sound quality than stockers.
My new speakers save 17.4 lbs over stock though. I don't think your system will :p
stock alternator for now, shouldn't need a H/O, have 880CCA battery though.
Whole system will probably add 200 lbs.