The differences between a good twin tube and a good monotube are pretty much a wash. The Ohlins T44 dominated CART/IndyCar for years and it is a twin tube.
Quality control and manufacturer experience is really more important than construction type.
It depends on the difference between the tires. If you've got a good, high performance street tire (that these days are essentially hard-ish race tires, especially if it was designed for SCCA Street Touring) and you're using a hard track tire (for tread life) the same suspension can probably handle the difference.Quote:
How dramatic of a suspension adjustment is required for track vs. street tire changes? Say you go from a street tire to a track tire, can you usually get away with going back and forth between the two or are you leaving something on the table?
If you're using ultra-long-lasting street rocks, and your track tires are ten lap wonders... no way, no how.
The key here though is that the number one part that needs changing between street and race setups are the SPRINGS, not the shocks (although a spring change implies a shock change) The idea that you keep the springs the same and just stiffen the shocks with a knob is effectively fantasy - UNLESS the rules force you down that path (SCCA Stock classes) which means you hold your nose and get on with it.
There's a reason why the top Stock class cars are trailered to events....
For selecting shocks/springs see Autocross to Win (DGs Autocross Secrets) - Dynamics Calculator
To be honest, trying to build a track car out of a Stealth is an exercise in turd polishing. The car was designed to be a very high performance GT car. There are all kinds of compromises made in the design of the car that trade ultimate performance at the limit for street performance and comfort, and they simply cannot be easily (or cheaply) engineered away. In fact, that's the very reason why I bought one - if there was lurking race car potential in the car, eventually I'd start building it into a race car (that happened with every other car I've owned save a diesel Jetta I had for a while) Buy getting a fun car that has zero potential as a competitive race car, I avoid going down that path, and I get to keep my marriage.
Nobody EVER listens to this advice... but if you really intend on building a track car/race car, either go really cheap (Neon, Miata) so you can hammer on the thing and not care, or go really well set up from the factory (C5 Z06) so you can go stupid fast without having to spend a bunch of extra money on the car, and can instead spend money on tires, gas, and brake pads. If you insist on tracking a Stealth, you will be constantly butting into design limitations of the car and spending time, energy, and money engineering yourself out of the problem (half of which you'll get wrong - Ferrari F1 figures they have a 60% success rate with the stuff they try; you think you're better than Ferrari F1?) and that time and money is better spent having fun on the track.
DG
