Haha, gotta have em. Thanks.Now I need to sit down and read then thoroughly .
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Haha, gotta have em. Thanks.Now I need to sit down and read then thoroughly .
Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk
The more I read them,the more it makes me slap everything back and ride it or sell it like that. Anyways,is there somebody out there with the crankshaft pulley tool that let me borrow it. I cant find it on eBay and they sell something similar for like $58 but I'm short on money.
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You don't need that tool to take it apart, and with a little care taken on reassembly, you really don't need it going back together either...
Hey guys,so I read that it is easier to line up the timing marks before removing the old belt. But I can't even make one full spun(revolution)by the crank pulley clockwise or counter clockwise.
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There is no point in lining up the marks before removing the belt unless you have cam locks, and even then you are removing the head anyway, so no point.
Ok then, now I did remove the radiator to remove the alternator with the belt along side the left motor mount and a couple lower timing cover bolts. How do I proceed now?.The crank pulley is a bitch to get out.
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I gave you links to the FSM. Follow it.
As for the crank pulley you can do the starter bump method to get the bolt loose. I have stuck a lady slipper in the rotor vane and let the rotor jam against the brake caliper mount and broke it free that way. I torqued it the same way.
Good tip about the brake caliper.I though of it but didn't think it would work. I gonna try that tomorrow and with a thick screw driver too.
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I've personally done it, so yes it works. I used a few extensions to get the breaker bar out past the fender so I could use my legs to break it loose, instead of just using my arms confined in the wheel well.
So I already remove both belts. The thing that is giving me a problem is the crank pulley. I already have the car on first gear and a screw driver on the rotor vents to stop it from moving and still it keeps spinning.
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