I would probably go with an aluminum block, so that it doesnt ruin my carpet, and so i could easily move it. Still like the idea though.
Printable View
I would probably go with an aluminum block, so that it doesnt ruin my carpet, and so i could easily move it. Still like the idea though.
Found a blown evo x block but I think it'd be too small for a coffee table. It would make a better night stand.Quote:
Originally Posted by ChargerX3
Good stuff, I've thought about doing this before too, but there's no way I'd ever be able to slide that one past the gf. One thing you may have to worry about though, those wheels you bought at Lowe's, I've used the exact same wheel before, and the hard plastic will discolor your carpet. (I put them on a King sized bed.) After about 6 months, we moved the bed and we had four brown stains where the wheels sat. Nothing we did could get it out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by UTRacerX9
Ugh... Didn't think of that.... Thanks for the heads up.
I'll have to get a dark piece of carpet to place underneith it.
I think you may have just given me a perfect use for my original motor that came with my stealth. Its rusted to shit mostly so this would be perfect!
Incredible project. Looks great!
Going to be a really cool table! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg E
:confused: I think there may be a couple different ways to attach the rods without having to weld them to the block.
In theory....You can make plates out of flat steel about 1" wide x 3/16" thick and long enough to reach the two head bolt holes on each end of the block. Drill two holes in the plate so you can weld studs (weld bolts in the holes and grind down the bolt heads) to bolt the rods to. Then you can drill two holes to match the head bolt holes and bolt the plates down using the existing head bolt holes in the block (use proper length allen head bolts). The plates could be powder coated separately and then assembled to the block. If you grind down the inner piston skirt a bit the pistons will self level when you set the glass top on them.
Again, in theory....To bolt the rods directly to the block, You could probably use one of the head bolt holes for one of the rod bolts and then drill and tap another hole for the other rod bolt. By the looks of the block, there isn't enough room to drill and tap two separate holes to bolt the rods to.
Just a couple ideas to maybe help you out on the next table. :)
Cool as hell. Group buy, make it happen!
Thanks bob! These were my first thoughts too as I originally wanted the rods square instead of offset.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob
The main reason I didn't go that route was because I didn't have any steel plates...
Welding bolts to the plate isn't a bad idea except the rods would need a flat surface to rest on and the back side of the plate also needs to be flat. I have no easy way to do that...
The next headache was finding a bolt the right size and lenth. The stock rod bolts were way too long...
I was then thinking I could make some kind of adaptor to fit at least one side of the rod into the head stud hole but couldn't get a tap the right size.
It didn't occur to me till later I could just cut off a head stud, put it in a lathe, drill a hole in the center and tap it for a hex bolt. I might try this with Ulrich's engine.
This is going to be AWESOME!