11 years and counting

I thought about restalling a stocker. My understanding was that doing so would give me a higher stall--but I'd still be stuck with the same torque multiplier. Precision's has a higher torque multiplier, free-1-time-restall, and a 5 year warranty. So although I'd prefer keeping lockup functionality, I believe there are benefits to going this route. Feel free to correct me if I'm mistaken.

I had also been told in the past that a 100% stock OEM converter would be bad for a car making 500+ WHP--and prone to failure. Not sure how much truth there is in that--doesn't sound entirely plausible to me...but whatever.

The shop I use out here for restalls is great. They retain lockup and upgrade the lockup clutch to Kevlar. They also weld in anti balloon plates to keep the converter from ballooning with the large torque increase. It's also probably 1/5 the cost of a billet precision.

Also, converters aren't set to a certain stall. They have what's called a k factor, that changes stall speed with torque. A converter may only hit 2200 rpms on a 2.0 with cams and a large turbo, but stall past 4000 with a 3.5, and quick spooling turbos.

My stock restall with a 2.3, and 76hta turbo would stall over 4000 rpms and 25 psi of boost, driving through the brakes if I didn't use a 2step.

Sounds like I might be barking up the wrong tree then. I've been generally warned off from everything that's "reman", i.e. reground cams, restalled converters, re-treaded tires, etc. That was my concern here. But it's beginning to sound like I might have been given bad advice--at least with regard to converters.

How is the durability though? I really don't want a re-stall shitting the bed inside 3 years. If longevity isn't a factor, then it's probably best to save $$$ and keep my lockup. I know for a fact that I'll be putting 100x more highway miles on it than I'll be putting passes on a dragstrip.

All right, my order from Precision is on hold for the moment. Donnie, I'm gonna go with your advice here. Is a OEM converter or OEM restalled converter going to hold up as well as a billet AM one that doesn't have lockup? If yes, what's the company I should send it to for a restall?

And while we're at it, since no two dis-similar engines will stall the same on any one converter--what stall should I shoot for if I actually want to hit ~2600-2800 RPM stall on my engine, but the MFG is used to 3.0L vr4's, etc?

All right donnie. Tell me what shop you use. It's worth a shot if it costs as little as you say.

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Originally Posted by Forest Gump

I know kinda how you feel about the build. With the way things are looking overall in my life I'd rather run 14 PSI for a year on this setup than push it and not be able to fix any issues that come up.

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When mine gets going (hopefully today) I'll be babying that bitch for a while.

Good luck Thadd, would be cool to see that car together and at a NG.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IPD

All right, my order from Precision is on hold for the moment. Donnie, I'm gonna go with your advice here. Is a OEM converter or OEM restalled converter going to hold up as well as a billet AM one that doesn't have lockup? If yes, what's the company I should send it to for a restall?

And while we're at it, since no two dis-similar engines will stall the same on any one converter--what stall should I shoot for if I actually want to hit ~2600-2800 RPM stall on my engine, but the MFG is used to 3.0L vr4's, etc?

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I'd be surprised if you couldn't hit that rpm range on a stocker. My restall would go over 4000 on a 2.3 if I didn't use a 2step to limit it. I use roadrunner converter in Phoenix.

I could get to 3300 and 10psi on a stock converter with 3.0, 280 cams and 14bs before I pulled through the brakes. Didn't try pulling ebrake also. 3300 was a good launch rpm anyway because it had boost and never dropped when I let off the brakes and let it rip. I would think that a 3.5 and 16gs shouldn't have a problem pushing right to whatever you set a 2-step limiter.

I'm not putting a 2-step on this car. Or a trans-brake. Nothing "Drag-specific" is going on this car period.

Then why do you care so much about a high stall converter and why would you even consider a billet converter that removes the lock up function, that was built specifically for drag racing?

BTW no trans brake available for these transmissions. I'm talking about foot brake holding it back.

Send your converter to road runner. Get a mild restall, have them upgrade the lock up clutches to Kevlar.