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I've always run 15w50 (Silkolene Pro4 fully synthetic).
Unfortunately last year I blew an engine to pieces on nitrous (my own fault!), and after stripping it down I was amazed how good the main and big end bearings looked. A real shame as that engine was a peach, beat on it at 30psi for years with no issues.
I would have no hesitation in running 50 weight oils a d if Ray has recomended it then all the better!.
^you are obviously lying. 50w oil destroys engines on startup. :D
Do you guys really think oil makes that big of a difference? If it is built right and tuned right I bet you could put in Advanced Auto brand oil 10W-40 and be fine. If you road course then maybe a fake synthetic and a big FMOC.
I used to try to figure out the best oil and make a big deal out of it.. Now I just buy whatever is on sale. As long as it is clean and full I am happy.
Something about this post was bugging me, and I did not figure out what till now.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Fast
Viscosity ratings are an industry standard. You sir are full of shit with that statement. 20w-50 is a Winter blend where it is measured in low temps at the lower viscosity number.
Where are you pulling these jello/milkshake consistencies from?
Sent from the Man Cave!
*\( ^o^ )/*
Huh? 20W is the viscosity it was measured in cold temperature (don't remember the exact temp off the top of my head, I think 0*F) and 50 is the viscosity that was measured in heat, I think 212*F. Multiviscosity oils act differently in different temperatures to aid in both cold startup and hot operation. 20W-50 would not be considered by the industry as a winter blend. Low viscosity (thinner) oils would be best in the cold and higher viscosity (thicker) oils would be better in the heat. IMO, there is a point where the deficiencies of high viscosity oil outweigh the benefits and vice versa. The FSM specifies for turbo cars at 60*F and below to run 5W-30. 10W-30 is recommended from -10* to 120*F+. 20W-40 is recommended from 32* to 120*F+. Their interests were mostly for fuel economy not performance though. Low viscosity = colder weather, high viscosity = hotter weather.Quote:
Originally Posted by CoopKill
This thread began in February so I assume it's still winter everywhere and why I originally posed the viscosity question. I personally wouldn't run 20W-50 in any condition but, that is my opinion. 10W-30 has protected my bearings just fine over the years and as anyonebutme said go with what you like and change frequently.
Jeff
Just pulled this from the shop manual.
http://i.imgur.com/ZISWYn9.jpg
/Oil Discussion>
Yes what was the huh for? This is exactly what I was saying. My reply was to his assertion that at lower temps the oil is thick as hell.Quote:
Originally Posted by kywhitelightning
Alright, let's all calm down and have a rational conversation before we toss another discussion in the shitter. This can be a good thread. I apologize if my previous forwardness rubbed some folks the wrong way. I'll try to change my wording so it doesn't stir some ridiculous argument and emotion.Quote:
Originally Posted by CoopKill
Bill, the major things I look at when I'm going after an oil are the KV100 (Kinematic Viscosity), above 10. MRV-TP (Mini Rotary Viscometer Test procedure), LOW. CCS (Cold Cranking Simulation shear), LOW. Flash COC above 400 degrees F... HT/HV (High Temperature Shear Viscosity), above 3.
Higher viscosity oils characteristically have higher oil pressure, a consequence of this is higher oil temperature. Because the laws of physics prevail in all things, as a result of the increase in oil pressure and temperature the volume of oil lifted off the oil pump is lower. Lower viscosity says... lower pressure, lower temperature, higher oil volume.
The Cold Cranking Simulation rating for the VR-1 (street use) 20w-50 is 8000cP @ -15C (5F).
Pour point is -24C (-11).
MRTV -TP is 27,000cP @ -20C (-4F).
Cold Cranking simulation rating for Mobil 1 5w-30 is 4000cP @ -15C (5F).
- The VR-1 has double the oil pressure at equivalent temperature. Double oil pressure translates to half as much oil volume to the engine when cold cranking. It's best to select an oil with the lowest CCS rating in below freezing weather because it provides the most volume of oil which means the engine protection package is distributed faster.
Pour point for the VR-1 is down to -11F
Pour point for 5w-30 is -40F
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/y...psa56716d7.jpg
VR-1 isn't even rated to pour out in the middle of the U.S. right now. It was just -15 degrees here in Denver a few days ago.
The MRV-TP is double that of 5w-30. which is around 13,500cP at -4F.
These three things tell us how a given oil will pour, lift, and drain. The crazy high MRV-TV number illustrates you can lift VR-1 with 27,000cP at -5F, unfortunately it doesn't drain back to pan very well in middle America because it's rated to pour at -11. 20w-50 might not workout that well for everyone when you look at the temperature map.
sure that info is also in owners manual..
1999 Italy spec 3000gt vr-4 owners manual
https://imageshack.com/a/img36/2403/zxo.gif
1996 vr-4 spyder owners manual
https://imageshack.com/a/img690/1663/0ew5.gif
http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/one-reas...ht-oil-383446/
That's great man, but my garage never gets below freezing and really if it is 35 or something like that the stealth is staying home because there is probably salt on the road. I also hate to break it to you, but your "feels like temp" is the windchill. I don't think the car cares about the windchill roflamo.
It is 30 degrees here FYI and about 50 in my insulated garage.
Threads like these are what drive me to think two or three times before posting. You can't offer any sort of advice to anyone without an army of naysayers. Run whatever oil you want. I'm not sure what the big issue is anyway, it comes in 10w30, run that in the winter. Is it that hard?